Adjusting the A-arm ball link

[tonystevens]

just wondering what your thoughts were on adjusting the elevator a-arm ball link to raise the swash plate?
Im not sure where ive heard this or if its true or not but i was under the impression that the ball link should not be adjusted and screwed down tight?
Is this correct or do you all adjust it with no problems?

[waveydavey]

I wouldn't as it's meant to sit in the counterbore on the A arm and be tight against it, otherwise it's sitting on the cap head. I suppose it's no different to it sitting on a normal link though. I go ahead and adjust the other 2

[hedge]

Often thought about it when chasing a level swash with sub trim but always ended up Tightening that one down and adjusting the others by selecting different servo horn positions to suit. Just seems right somehow to have that one tight.

[tonystevens]

So are you saying you do adjust it Dave, or just the other two?

[jwatts007]

I put a longer link on mine and cut it down in diameter to fit but even then it was not long enough...but thinking about it now I would have just used washers or something like that and a longer bolt...as long as there is enough thread in the link it is not going anywhere....

P.S maybe the new DFC model has a longer A arm...

[tonystevens]

P.S maybe the new DFC model has a longer A arm...

It doesnt John, still having that problem with getting 0' with the DFC links on the pitch arms lol, ive just changed them for the longer fbl links.

[waveydavey]

No Tony I always pull this one down and adjust the other 2. But as I said above it's no different having it sat on the cap head in it's counterbore than having the ball link sat on a rod. I don't think anything untoward would happen

[jwatts007]

It doesnt John, still having that problem with getting 0' with the DFC links on the pitch arms lol, ive just changed them for the longer fbl links.

I thought you were adapting the older 700n so the same problem exists with the new 700...thats not good mate...if you use a BX I do not think it matters it is using the V Bar that the problem arises...I would seriously consider getting some main shafts done too eliminate this problem.....

[coolice]

Hey.

Is the problem the new style flybarless links connecting swashplate to blade pitch arm being too short? If yes you can use the older style flybarless plastic links which are longer but are just as strong.

If you wanted you can adjust the A arm link, but that is in theory set to put the swash in its middle position on the mainshaft so probably best left. But you can adjust this without problems.
.

[tonystevens]

Cheers ian, yes that's the problem i'm having and have done what you suggest with the longer links, The problem seems to arise when you have to put the thicker shim on main shaft top bearing as this lifts the whole head up.

[jasoncook]

I had the problem of the swash binding on the bearing blocks on my old 700N when i put a fbl head on it . The bearing blocks were after market ones with thrusts in them. I used a longer head link and bolt, to get more clearence.

[Jamin_00]

Hey.

Is the problem the new style flybarless links connecting swashplate to blade pitch arm being too short? If yes you can use the older style flybarless plastic links which are longer but are just as strong.

If you wanted you can adjust the A arm link, but that is in theory set to put the swash in its middle position on the mainshaft so probably best left. But you can adjust this without problems.
.

got a link to the ones you swap them out with?

Im building a 700N DFC for someone now.

[jwatts007]

How about putting one of these on top of the A arm its the part you get with the carbon rods that go over the links it would raise the link on the A arm about 6mm but could be cut down...

[coolice]

Cheers ian, yes that's the problem i'm having and have done what you suggest with the longer links, The problem seems to arise when you have to put the thicker shim on main shaft top bearing as this lifts the whole head up.

Hey.

You're welcome buddy. It seems to be a coming problem on N's as I've seen it not to long ago and just today setting up a brand new 700N DFC, I actually had to put 1mm of shim between the pitch change arm and the threaded stud which connects it to the plastic link. Then use the older style longer FBL links to attain 0 degrees pitch while still keeping a decent amount of screw thread in each component.

I forgot to take pictures, but will ask the owner to email me some and chat to Robbe about it as its worrying if people unscrew the stock plastic links too far in the pursuit of the right pitch setting. Most will question the integrity of the link if unscrew too far, but I'd hate to hear of this failing if it wasn't spotted.

got a link to the ones you swap them out with?

Im building a 700N DFC for someone now.

Hey.

Let me see if I can find them and post back.

As above I think you'll see the problem to, as the N DFC I've just setup ready yo test fly needed the blade pitch arms length extending a fair bit.
.

[coolice]

got a link to the ones you swap them out with?

Im building a 700N DFC for someone now.

Here you go buddy, these are the plastic link ends I used;

700EFL LINKAGE ROD (A) SET | Midland Helicopters Ltd
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