Trex 700 DFC starter shaft

[mgjackson]

Hi,

The grub screws are buggered on mine and so the head slips rather than spin the engine.

I've tried to drill out one if the grub screws that had rounded off, but I've only made things worse.

These two grubs screws do seem to be a tad optomisitic to be expected to hold the head in place while turning over quite a chunky engine.

From what I've read some people have had no problems, others a lot of trouble.

So, is there any third party shafts about which are better designed - ie, something with a hole all the way through and has a bolt would be nice :-)

Also, is there a way of removing said shaft and the clutch bell without dissasembeling the entire model - on my 600 its easy as you can get to it from the top just be removing the the gryo tray and loosening a few of the side screws....5 minute job. On the 700 the frame is narrower than the bell so it seems that the engine has to come out first.

Thanks,
Matthew

[p41mer]

My 700le was exactly the same when I had it. Replaced the shaft and coupling and dremmel'd a flat spot on the new shaft to give the grub some bite. From memory, it was a PITA cause I couldn't see any easy way without removing the motor.

[tonystevens]

Sorry but engine HAS to come out first on the DFC.

[mgjackson]

I don't know what the previous 700 were like - my 700dfc has a smaller frame that my 600le.

Making it narrow seems to be something of fashion statement rather than have any practical use. These things fly due to shear power not because they are aerodynamic. Better to make them a bit chubbier and easier to work on.

[J-S-Q]

I don't know what the previous 700 were like - my 700dfc has a smaller frame that my 600le.

Making it narrow seems to be something of fashion statement rather than have any practical use. These things fly due to shear power not because they are aerodynamic. Better to make them a bit chubbier and easier to work on.

Don't know about the DFC but on my 700LE, I have been able to remove the clutch block from the top without taking the engine out. Is definitely tricky to do though.

RE: the frame width, I think theoretically a narrower frame is stiffer.

[tonystevens]

RE: the frame width, I think theoretically a narrower frame is stiffer.

And lighter.

[Si Goodchild]

I can only comment on the 700N v1, but I agree that the start shaft design is a bit poor. I too used a dremmel or similar tool to make a flat spot on the shaft upon which the grub screws can get a good grip. Once that was done the problem went away completely, so happy days. Sounds like you may need a new start shaft kit now, though.

[waveydavey]

A drop of red/green locktite and do them up effin tight. Never needed to put a flat on but make sure the grubscrews are new and have a decent point on them

[dieselcarb]

Ive not had this problem but some down the field have.
Flattspotting the dents makes life easier fixing on and removal because they dont flare and catch the cup when ya replace bearing s

[Gixxer]

A drop of red/green locktite and do them up effin tight. Never needed to put a flat on but make sure the grubscrews are new and have a decent point on them

This^^^

I've only ever had a problem with one hex cup spinning, and it was on a 700n which I bought second hand. I've never had a problem with the ones I've assembled with red loctite.