Replacing clutch liner for first time

[crazy_gadgets]

Hi All

I'm replacing my clutch liner for the first time and I just wanted to confirm some things before I glue it in.

I've removed the old liner and all the gunk with acetone.
I've got a replacement liner (just went with the standard Align one, couldn't find the lynx one for sale anywhere)

If I test fit it in the the clutch bell (standard align one) it fits perfectly. So perfectly I could almost not glue it in! Don't worry I will glue it . Now after reading various forum posts (albeit old ones) the advice seems to be to wrap 1-2 layers electrical tape around the clutch to act as a spacer and hold the liner in place. However if I do this and test fit everything the tape does not make contact with the liner. How tight should it be whilst gluing in place?


What should the clearance be? things I've read suggest 0.2mm which means I think that the ID of the clutch bell with liner should 0.4mm bigger than the ID of the Clutch itself. How is it best to achieve this? I've read about using a slip of paper to build out the clutch bell before sticking the liner in?

any top tips gratefully received

R

[bigbladelittleblade]

All I used was the insulation tape around the clutch, once you apply the epoxy to the liner the clutch should be a tight fit as the epoxy takes up a little space aswell, worked for me every time.

[hedge]

This is one of hose PITA things you need to learn. On some machines you will need to shim the clutch, and on others you will find the stock liner is fine. To me it sounds like you should shim. Get some standard a4 paper and cut out a strip the exact width but ever so slightly longer than the clutch liner. Wrap this into he clutch bell first, don't over lap the ends of the paper or you create a high point on the clutch. Once your happy with the fit glue it in place with epoxy - or what ever you use to glue your liner. Once this is secure you can then glue the liner on top. This should shim the liner out so that when you have your 2 wraps of electrical tape the clutch will effectively push on the liner. If you search online hard enough you will find the exact distance spacing you should have. Once glued in and the tape removed the clutch should spin freely with an equal space around the bell - very thin gap.

you may find the first 10 or so flights the clutch is catching early, don't worry this will bed in however if it's still doing it hold the head and gently rev the engine so the clutch rubs away some of the liner.

good luck

[Planehazza]

I enjoy changing the liner, but getting the engine/clutch stack alignment right is something I hate. I can never get it back the way I had it!

Whilst on the subject of clutch liners - my G4 clutch is now a good 25-30 flights old, but it still bites early with a correctly set idle. How much longer will it take to wear in?

[crazy_gadgets]

Thank you all
Being my first one I'm a bit nervous. Nothing ventured nothing gained I guess!

Additional question though.
If the liner out of the packet fits the bell perfectly with no shimming. I assume that I should shorten very slightly the liner so that it fits perfectly with the shim?

I'll get measuring later. Gap seems to be about 0.2-0.3mm but no one seems to agree!

[waveydavey]

Have to admit Ive never needed to shim the liner on the 600, be careful with the amount of epoxy and as above 2 layers of tape to help give a decent gap. Get the old one out by softening it with a decorators heat gun or the missus hair dryer, it will then peel out leaving a bit of the old one behind. Roughen up with coarse sandpaper

[waveydavey]

The liner will be slightly too long, buy the blue one, it's a better compound apparently

[hedge]

If the liner out of the packet fits the bell perfectly with no shimming. I assume that I should shorten very slightly the liner so that it fits perfectly with the shim?

I'll get measuring later. Gap seems to be about 0.2-0.3mm but no one seems to agree!

its not about the liner fitting the bell, it's about having the correct clearance between the clutch and the liner. It's a dark art :-) but the liners are as cheap as chips, the annoying thing is doing it wrong you then have to go through it all again. However Once you've done it and got it right you'll know what your liner/model/clutch needs in the future.

If it goes wrong too thick you can wear it down. If it goes wrong too thin you break a clutch - £20/£30.

[crazy_gadgets]

its not about the liner fitting the bell, it's about having the correct clearance between the clutch and the liner.

ok makes sense.

I'm going to do it this evening so I'll see how it goes!

thanks for everyone's help

[hedge]

Should have said before, but I would replace the bearings in the clutch housing while you have it out. The large bearing takes a hammering and i usually find it's shot by the time the liner needs replacing. The large bearings cost about £1 from rcbearings.co.uknd the small ones are £0.75 so well worth doing the set while you have it all in your hand. I find the starter shaft cup is always a problem to get off, but with some creative thought, support the base of the cup and once the screws are out you can knock the shaft through.

[crazy_gadgets]

thanks

Bearings I've already replaced recently but yes good tip for the future.

time to mix up some epoxy I think!

[crazy_gadgets]

right so its in.

a shim of paper
The Blue align liner
2 layers of electrical tape on the clutch

fits perfectly!

just to let ii set then I get put her back together and into the air!

Thanks for all of your help and advice

[hedge]

Sounds like your good to go. At least if it's a bit snatchy at first you can wear it in, the other way ( not biting till high throttle) would require a full strip down and replace again. All you've effectively done is made your own heavy duty lynx clutch liner.