Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

T-rex 250 DFC tail spinning

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by tomatwalden View Post
    Good stuff. What was the problem in the end then? (tail compensation direction?).

    Hope you don't mind, but couple of bits of advice from watching your vid ...
    * Find somewhere with a lot of space! Youtube is littered with crash vids of people trying to learn the confines of a back yard ...
    * Be careful with take off and landing pads. Here's an example why ..

    What I did was strip down the tail and polish the slider and file out a couple of shim holders to get the tail to move smoother.

    Then I figured out that to get it into HH mode you have to have the gyro gain set to >50% for that mode otherwise it just sticks in rate mode.

    Then I did the whole rudder setup numoerous times until I was happy that everything was moving in the right direction.

    Then I did the tail endpoint setup numerous times until there was absolutly no sticking at the endpoints what so ever.

    Then I took it outside this morning and it flew.

    Yes I know what you mean about the cardboard it was just there so I could slide it around I had no intention of taking off I just wanted to see what the tail was like, but then it just did

    I also found a PDF of a thread someone has written about setting up the 3gx while searching google the thread on this site here -> http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/align-...3gx-setup.html actually written in english as opposed to the Align manual which is written on bullshit.

    Comment


    • #17
      I have another question, the heli blades seem to spool up very slowly can this be changed, is it the Brake settings on the esc and what do the various settings mean there is Brake Disabled, Soft Brake and Hard Brake or am I barking up the wrong tree.

      Comment


      • #18
        Did you calibrate the tx throttle with the esc
        Today's outlook is fine for flying.
        • Spektrum DX18 gen2, Phoenix Sims, Align MR25XP.
        • Blade Nano, mCP X, 130x, Blade 180, Mini T 450se
        • Trex 250dfc Gpro, Trex 500EFL Gpro.
        • Trex 600E Gpro DFC, Trex 600NSP now Gpro, DFC, Redline 56
        • Flickr Through My Pictures.
        • A helicopter is an aircraft that is lifted and propelled by one or more horizontal rotors because Wikipedia said so.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by philhguk View Post
          I have another question, the heli blades seem to spool up very slowly can this be changed, is it the Brake settings on the esc and what do the various settings mean there is Brake Disabled, Soft Brake and Hard Brake or am I barking up the wrong tree.
          Don't touch the brake setting. This is for planes not helis. The speed of blade spool-up is controlled by the "soft start" parameter in the ESC. You want soft-start because it reduces strain on the transmission assembly as it brings the blades up to speed. Not so essential on a 250 to be honest, but certainly more of an issue with larger helis.

          Start the blades too quickly, and you'll end up with severe blade lag, causing an imbalance and possibly a crash.
          Tom
          sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
          SAB Goblin 630 Competition
          - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
          Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
          Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
          .... and a Gaui X3
          Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
          ... and two EGS'



          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by tomatwalden View Post
            Don't touch the brake setting. This is for planes not helis. The speed of blade spool-up is controlled by the "soft start" parameter in the ESC. You want soft-start because it reduces strain on the transmission assembly as it brings the blades up to speed. Not so essential on a 250 to be honest, but certainly more of an issue with larger helis.

            Start the blades too quickly, and you'll end up with severe blade lag, causing an imbalance and possibly a crash.

            Oh ok well it is set to Helicopter 1 which is the default.

            I guess I am just used to the Nano CPX which spools up straight away but is considerably smaller.

            Comment


            • #21
              Exactly, the nano has almost zero mass to start spinning at extremely high revs! From 250 onwards, you need to be a little more gentle on the power assembly as it starts to swing the blades. Many people prefer soft-start too because it has a more scale feel!
              Tom
              sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
              SAB Goblin 630 Competition
              - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
              Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
              Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
              .... and a Gaui X3
              Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
              ... and two EGS'



              Comment


              • #22
                How much expo are you running? Looks fairly sensitive on the sticks.




                Goblin 700, Vbar Silverline, Savox SC-1267MG / SB-2272MG.Scorpion opto 130. Align 750mx /450kv
                Trex 500 EFL Pro, DFC, Vbar 5.3 Full Pro.
                CopterX 250 SE FBL, With Align upgrades and 3GX
                JR XG 7
                Mini CP, Heading for retirement.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by helimadness View Post
                  How much expo are you running? Looks fairly sensitive on the sticks.
                  Is that in the D/R & Expo menu on the DX6i if it is the settings are:

                  AILE 0 100% INH
                  ELEV 0 100% INH
                  RUDD 0 100% INH

                  This is all gobbledygook to me so I hope that is what you meant, also why can you change the 0 to 1 by flicking various switches ?

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    You should play around with it in the Sim. Was one of those small break through moments when I worked it out and realized you could make the heli much easier to fly. Well slower or tamer on the controls. Certainly helped a lot in the beginning but now dont have a lot of expo left.
                    I not sure about the DX6 as I dont have one. I have a XG7 so maybe close.
                    My guess is the INH (inactive) says they are both turned off.
                    My guess is the "0" is EXP. Exp (Exponential I think) changes the curve from linear to slower if positive or faster if negative around mid stick. So you still have the same total travel (100%) but around mid stick will change.
                    D/R is duel rates. The 100% number there means you are using full travel. You should have a switch on the TX so you can have 2 setups in flight. You might want a slow one say 80% ( which reduces total effective stick movement to 80%) for hover practice and one at 100% for sport / 3D flying.

                    All total personal preference and every one is different. Have a play on the sim and change some numbers and see how the feel changes. Maybe use a bigger heli on the sim to make it easier to see the difference.

                    First add say + 30% EXP on the ELE and AIL and see how that feels. Its a fair bit so will make a noticable change. Then you can reduce / increase from there to make it feel how you want.
                    Also try changing DR to say 80% as a test. Change one at a time to see the effect.

                    Does the DX6 have a screen with a graph display? If it does will make sense when you start playing with it as you can see it change on the screen.

                    Do it all on the sim first to get a feel for it.




                    Goblin 700, Vbar Silverline, Savox SC-1267MG / SB-2272MG.Scorpion opto 130. Align 750mx /450kv
                    Trex 500 EFL Pro, DFC, Vbar 5.3 Full Pro.
                    CopterX 250 SE FBL, With Align upgrades and 3GX
                    JR XG 7
                    Mini CP, Heading for retirement.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by helimadness View Post
                      You should play around with it in the Sim. Was one of those small break through moments when I worked it out and realized you could make the heli much easier to fly. Well slower or tamer on the controls. Certainly helped a lot in the beginning but now dont have a lot of expo left.
                      I not sure about the DX6 as I dont have one. I have a XG7 so maybe close.
                      My guess is the INH (inactive) says they are both turned off.
                      My guess is the "0" is EXP. Exp (Exponential I think) changes the curve from linear to slower if positive or faster if negative around mid stick. So you still have the same total travel (100%) but around mid stick will change.
                      D/R is duel rates. The 100% number there means you are using full travel. You should have a switch on the TX so you can have 2 setups in flight. You might want a slow one say 80% ( which reduces total effective stick movement to 80%) for hover practice and one at 100% for sport / 3D flying.

                      All total personal preference and every one is different. Have a play on the sim and change some numbers and see how the feel changes. Maybe use a bigger heli on the sim to make it easier to see the difference.

                      First add say + 30% EXP on the ELE and AIL and see how that feels. Its a fair bit so will make a noticable change. Then you can reduce / increase from there to make it feel how you want.
                      Also try changing DR to say 80% as a test. Change one at a time to see the effect.

                      Does the DX6 have a screen with a graph display? If it does will make sense when you start playing with it as you can see it change on the screen.

                      Do it all on the sim first to get a feel for it.
                      Ok I have had a read on the internet and a play with the D/R & Expo settings in Phoenix, as far as I understand the D/R setting limits the percentage of servo travel and a + Expo makes the stick deafer around midsticks and a - Expo makes the sticks deafer towards the ends.

                      So I have played around with the T-Rex 250 in Phoenix and I see what you mean you can totally program out all the twichyness and get a nice smooth controlled flight, so thanks for telling me about that.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X