450 SE V2 Heat question?

[Twister3D]

Ok I have given my Rex a 3-4 minute run on new Lipo's (just circuits and 8s)
Was wondering how hot does your ESc's and Motor get.
I could just about hold my finger on the heat sink of the ESC, and Motor,
but it was uncomfortable.
Is this ok.
Taking into consideration it's brand new and a little tight still, I can
spin the blades by hand and they will do a couple of rotations only ?
I have not added any teflon/ptfe oil to the swash and shaft etc.... yet?

Dave

[chugga-bug]

Best bet is to get yourself a small temp gauge. Quite cheap on ebay.

When I ran mine on 3s I recall the generally accepted safe temp for the lipos was about 150 deg F. Mine regularly reached this (this was with TP Gen 3's 16c I think). This is pretty damn hot to touch. Can't remember what temp the motor and esc ran, but since going 4s temp is no longer an issue.
Make sure every thing runs as free as poss, and don't over tighten gear mesh or tail belt.

[Thomas]

Even a new Trex should spin freely, check your belt is not too tight and your gear mesh is not too tight either..

Also what pinion did you put on the motor? I opted for the smaller of the two to give the LiPos, motor and ESC and easier time and i still gives ample power.

[Twister3D]

Make sure every thing runs as free as poss, and don't over tighten gear mesh or tail belt.

Put a piece of laser paper between 12 tooth pinion and gear before tightening so thats ok, and tail belt not over tightened, think its just new and needs a few runs

Thanks for the battery info, mine does not get to hot at all.
just esc and motor I was worrying about.

[Twister3D]

Even a new Trex should spin freely, check your belt is not too tight and your gear mesh is not too tight either..

Also what pinion did you put on the motor? I opted for the smaller of the two to give the LiPos, motor and ESC and easier time and i still gives ample power.

How many free spins should I be aiming for when I give it a flick with my hand ?

Oh the 12tooth pinion
What about the main shaft locking ring can that be too tight ?

[golddust]

Put a piece of laser paper between 12 tooth pinion and gear before tightening so thats ok, and tail belt not over tightened, think its just new and needs a few runs

Thanks for the battery info, mine does not get to hot at all.
just esc and motor I was worrying about.

'laser paper' !!! This comes in different thickness.

[Twister3D]

'laser paper' !!! This comes in different thickness.

80 gsm paper
not the thick stuff

[Thomas]

Main shaft locking ring needs to be as thight as yuo can get it with your fingers.

I don't use the paper method on my gears, I find it more accurate to feel it, takes longer and is more of a pain but wokrs for me. A couple of rotations doesn' seem too stiff to me - half of one would be,

[moyesboy]

I am not using the align ESC and motor but mine do get pretty hot to the touch, but not so hot I can't keep my finger on them. Thats getting 3000 headspeed and pulling 1500mah out of my 2200 3 cell packs in 6 minutes. The packs stay just barely warm.

The align ESC should go into slow shutdown, and the headspeed should slow down, before it gives up if it is gettign too hot. Look out for that. My align 25A ESC used to do that once I pushed the headspeed up.

[Twister3D]

Will a small amount of PTFE/Silicon Oil help,
and where's best to put it?

Dave

[moyesboy]

silicone lubricant spray is good on the tail belt. alternatively mr sheen/pledge furniture polish.
This lubes and also prevent static build up and discharge - which can cause a glitch on 35 mhz. remember Van de Graf?

[Fixxxer]

As a rule of thumb, Batts shouldn't exceed 60c and motor 85c. After flying a pack keep enough in reserve to let the rotors idle at low speed for 20-30 sec, this will prevent the temperture spikes that occur on motors. Much like a turbo, if you just shut it down straight away it will actually heat up before starting to cool.