Pitch and binding

[Cralis]

Just get some wheel collars from your local shop, will work just as well for slowing the cyclic down.

Wheel collars? Sorry, I am thick when it comes to mechanics, screw drivers and sorts. Whats a wheel collar?

Maybe I'm in the wrong hobby! hehe

Ahh, you have to learn somewhere...

[HighlanderJC]

Would it be a good idea to set minimum pitch to -4 max to +9 for a beginner. ie: set the pitch gauge to -4,with the throttle at bottom and with the fly bar level increase the pitch (point 1 in the pitch curves) until gauge and flybar align, move throttle to top, set pitch gauge to +9 go to point 5 in pitch curves and increase/decrease until gauge and flybar align again. point 3 in pitch curves, centre stick, set to 0 pitch. This works fine for me.

[HighlanderJC]

Should'nt the swash mix for ch1 and 2 be the same? I was lead to believe the paddles help initiate the roll/pitch and these intechange with main blades as the head rotates.

[Ade_Law]

Cralis.

now you have had your first crash and seen what it costs please please take it to a club and get somebody to check it over and show you the ropes. Helis are finicky things and watching the vid i dont think the pitch is setup correctly.

if you take it to somebody they will have the experience to check it over and set it up.

a badly setup heli is tricky to fly even with lots of experience so as noob you dont stand a chance!

Ade

[gazza]

Heres a good site for info..

http://www.jkheli.com/

Always set up you pitch range with the 5 point curve set to 0-25-50-75-100. You cant make any adjustments otherwise as you'll have a non symmetrical mechanical setup.

First thing you must do is set the zero at mid stick, this is always the first place to start.

I set all the linkage rods to the illustrated lengths I get zero pitch at mid stick & petty much 10 degs both ends.

The short links connected to the blade grips are only adjusted to fine tune the blade tracking or for small adjustments in achieving zero pitch when at mid stick.

With all but the RH servo arm at 90 degs to the main shaft this pretty much works spot on.

You have to offset the RH servo arm upwards slightly and adjust the rod length to bring the swashplate level as the rh servo arm can hit the main gear when at full negative pitch & RH roll = Total destruction

These measurements are a good reference and its just fine tuning from there. Just remember the short links to the blade grips are the very last things you adjust to fine tune achievement of zero pitch of both blades at mid stick.

If you cant get your desired 10 degs or whatever at bottom and top stick
the problem lies with the servo arm lengths or swash travel percentage. -Providing what you CAN achieve is symmetrical )- ie you want -10 & +10 but can only get -8 +8 for example. Also remember to adjust ALL servo arm lengths equally. This is critical. If you CANT get symmetry then lengthen or shorten all the rods from servo to swashplate. ie if you get -6 & +8 then shorten all the servo to swashplate rods one turn for example and you'll get something like -7 & +7.



Following any adjustments always start over again at mid stick & adjust to get zero pitch again if necessary & then check full pitch values again.

Its all trial and error and can involve repeating the whole process half a dozen times in some cases