Noisy Trex 600 (sounds like the clutch) - please help!

[loiphin]

Hi All,


I have had my Trex 600 Nitro Pro for about 3 months now, and I have loved every minute of it. One persistant issue I am having seems to be a noisy vibrating clutch bell.

I replaced the entire clutch assembly twice (starter shart, clutch bell, clutch shoe, bearings, plastic housing). It hasn't really improved matters. And I also installed the Raptor heavy duty clutch liner, just to see if it would help. But unfortunately nothing seems to work.

Please have a listen to my youtube clip and let me know if you have any idea's.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC6oVBWP6pw[/ame]



Thanks,


loiphin.

[Tim Procter]

Well after hearing that I would put money on it being the clutch but as you have changed the complete assembly I am stuck..

Certainly not right though.

Will subscribe to this thread and see what others have to say..

[raptorheli2]

i would also have bet on your clutch being in bits but there you go. only thing i can think of is the fan is rubbing somewhere. i would try to remove the fan shroud completely and run the engine in the heli.

do you have a gov installed? is it rubbing on the magnet at times? above test may prove this also.

cheers

[3dx]

See if you can get hold of a dial gauge-had a similar issue with a shuttle and OS 37- was only out by a gnats private parts!! but just enough to make that "death" rattle,,,,,

[loiphin]

************* T600N Noise FIXED!!!! ***********

Hi All,


I finally managed to fix the tinny sound problem that has been plaguing me for months. I had a new OS .50 Hyper as a spare and decided to swap the current OS .50 Max to see if it would make any difference. And what a difference! It is now running as smooth as butter. I did around 6 tanks today, slightly on the rich side to break in the engine and it really purrs.

So my theory is that the clutch bell was vibrating due to the crankshaft on the engine being slightly bent. I have never dropped the engine so I have no idea how this happened, assuming this is the true issue? I will buy a dial gauge and confirm if it is true. If so then no wonder my clutch bearings were only lasting a gallon or two!!

loiphin.

[loiphin]

Actually I take my theory back. I opened up the old engine and found that the rear bearing was toast. Also found it had worn the crankshaft a bit on the one side. The crankshaft must have been oscillating with the worn bearing and thus caused the clutch bell to make such a racket.

loiphin.

[Tim Procter]

Sorted mate, At least you can get the parts and re-build it..

[loiphin]

Not so sure about buying the spares:

1 x crankshaft - £34
1 x piston ring - £16 (ham-fistedness while dismantling engine)
1 x rear bearing - £14
1 x front bearing - £9

Total £75!!!

I would rather buy a whole new Hyper for £99!

[Leebert]

Answer... break engine and sell good bits and / or keep some spares, then buy new hyper for £99
Oh, also buy engine bearings from Modelfixings.co.uk for approx half price.

[mak24seven]

I had the same problem with my last hyper, for a 100 squid there not worth faffing with, just out of interest how old was the motor and has it ever been started on full chat while holding on to the head for dear life?

[loiphin]

Its a 3 month old OS .50 Max. I bought it from Midland Heli's, and actually ordered a Hyper, but couldn't be bothered to return the Max, so kept it. I guess they are sneakily trying to get of old stock!

I have luckily never had any hot starts, although a couple of times I have been practicing auto rotations and done the following :-

1. Flying in idle up
2. Hit thottle hold and auto to the ground.
3. Forget that I am still in idle up and release the thottle hold.
4. Engine revs like hell and clutch gets a good kicking.
5. Realise and quickly switch off Idle up.

Luckily I didn't damage anything.


loiphin.

[Leebert]

Hi Simon
I think I am right in saying that the only differences between the 50 and Hyper is the ali head and the carb so you could keep the good 50 max engine bits as spares for a Hyper.
Also, the Hyper will give you MORE POWER and that's always good

[helihead]

yep all the main parts are the same so build up a good block and just replace the head and carb i have modded all my rear jurnals to alow moore fuel through the rear bearing.sounds like you have it all sortted now have fun,,