Fitting CSM RevLock 10 to 600 Nitro

[MarkA]

Hi Everyone..

Driving myself nuts trying to work out the best way to fit the CSM RevLock 10 to my 600N.

I have seen the post on here with the sensor mounted to the Engine Fan Cover but I dont fancy doing that.

Anyone fitted one successfully to the proper gov mounts? - any help appreciated (pic of it fitted would be good )

Cheers
Mark.

[Biggles]

any help ?
http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/showthread.php?t=6036

[Edders]

heres how I did mine

http://www.real-kbase.co.uk/trex600_trick.html

Edders

[SRH990]

If you buy one of the latest Synergy mounts for the Revlock it now comes with a triangular plastic fillet which correctly angles the sensor. First thing I'd do is fit the metal fan, the plastic fan flexes and wiped out my first sensor

Fit the bracket inside the frames, if you use a 3mm cap head screw it will actually cut a thread in the bracket so you can avoid using nuts on the inside, a bitch to get at. At this point I'd fit the motor and fan into the frames and check the gap between the sensor and magnet or at least the bottom of the bracket so you can see how much the sensor needs to project past the end of the bracket. I used some backing paper off some velcro tape folded in 2 to set the gap. Once you've got the sensor positioned correctly on the bracket I'd run some thin cyano inside the heatshrink to fix the plastic fillet and the sensor in place, with just the heatshrink there is still enough movement to **** it all up After this remove the motor and just fit the fan in position, the cut-out thats already there will probably be too small and will foul the sensor, cut the fan shroud back so there is generous clearance. After all this fit the motor and fan then check the sensor test on the Revlock. I ran a little cyano around the head of the cap-head screws as a little extra insurance to stop the bracket lossening.

I spent around 8 hours getting mine sorted, the best way to get at the sensor after the heli has been buil is to remove the skids and baseplate, take off the exhaust, remove the main shaft/head assembly and the main gear then take out the aileron and tail servos. The major difficulty I was having was that there was insufficient clearance in the fan opening plus I hadn't finally locked the sensor/fillet/bracket assembly with cyano, when I refitted the motor/fan shroud unit the shroud was hitting the sensor and pushing it back enough so that the gap was too big for the sensor to work.

The sensor mount is probably the single worst piece of design on the heli, I tried mounting the sensor externally but the magnet wasn't far enough out to still be able to mount the sensor such that it would work.

[Nutz]

If you look just in front of my main gear you can see that my sensor is cyno'ed to the frame, I cut a little hole in the fan shrud fo rthe sensor to sit in. I have had the engine in and out anumber of times with no problems.

[MarkA]

Thanks Everyone!

Thanks Everyone for your input... a metal fan and the synergy mount sound the way to go!

I am new to this sport and this is my first build so all help is really appreciated.

[nightstalker]

I done what edders did, i just tie wrapped the sensor to the inside of the frame and put the engine in with out the fan shroud and pushed the sensor down to the right gap and pulled the tie wrap tight and took engine out and refitted engine with shroud and shes good as gold

[SteveH39]

I done what edders did, i just tie wrapped the sensor to the inside of the frame and put the engine in with out the fan shroud and pushed the sensor down to the right gap and pulled the tie wrap tight and took engine out and refitted engine with shroud and shes good as gold

I did a variation on this, heatshrink the sensor to a 3mm plastic spacer (the width and length of the complete sensor) fed the sensor inside the frame, located with a tiewrap and then a small amount of epoxy to hold. I know it will be a git when i need to remove it thats why i fitted the heatshrink over the sensor, i can cut the heatshrink and allow the sensor to drop out, then just clean off the inside of the frame with the engine removed for access.

seems to be working well on the bench, need to get it airborn now.

Pic will follow.