Anybody help me with settings for throttle hold, is it different on a nitro, when you start a nitro, what keeps the speed down, so as to bot engage the clutch, just want to try understanding all the mechanics before starting her up obviously, using a dx7, have set all swash mixes, servo direction etc... but insure on this bit
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Get the throttle linkage so that 100% on each endpoint would give the servo full throw of the carb arm.
Go to your normal curve, and try starting the engine. Chances are it wont start, so keep upping the first point of the curve until it starts. If you end up on 11%, that will also be your throttle hold figure.
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Great, thanks Paul, just the info I neededOriginally posted by sacko View PostGet the throttle linkage so that 100% on each endpoint would give the servo full throw of the carb arm.
Go to your normal curve, and try starting the engine. Chances are it wont start, so keep upping the first point of the curve until it starts. If you end up on 11%, that will also be your throttle hold figure.
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why dont you see if adie will help you start her dudeChris 'CHUNK' Newby
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We'll sort you out on Sunday mate. It really isn't as intimidating as it sounds!
My throttle hold is set at 15%,
You start a nitro when you want to go flying
Sort the head speed out with the throttle curve, the clutch will engage fairly quickly above idle, but does so progressively.
You'll love it! See you Sunday hopefully.Synergy N5 -BeastX
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It doesn't matter because you are getting help from your friends who will probably do it, but don't forget you also need to set the throttle cut on the radio. If you don't, you would need to pinch the fuel line every time you want to stop the engine, which isn't ideal.Life's a bitch and then you fly!!
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This is why I love my Futaba. Throttle hold is always simply 0%
Harry
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Some throttle geometries I've seen at our flying site have made me cringe.
Its realy worth spending time getting this bit right as it affects your govenor.
1st things first get your pushrod set to the correct length.
Do this by eyeing through the ball link arm at the servo arm centre hole you can take the screw out with the arm off & put the screw through the ball link. now adjust the other ball link so that the centre of the throttle arm cap head screw is directly in the centre of the ball link hole. Now set your throttle trim to zero & pop the ball link on the throttle arm. Set a 0 25 50 75 100 throttle curve in norm mode bring the stick right back to zero throttle & put the servo horn on the servo so at zero throttle & zero trim the carb is fully shut & not binding. Slowly open the throttle to full check for binding if servo travel is to much reduce atv on throttle channel or move the ball in a hole on both horn & carb arm (these need to be the same distance out so move both not just one) idealy you need both sides of the atv to be the same value so if at full throttle the carbs fully open at +80% try to get it so at fully shut the minus value is -80% also check that at half throttle stick you get half throttle on the carb arm.
once the throttle is mechanicaly set up shut the throttle put on the glow clip & try to start it, raise the throttle trim a little at a time till the engine starts this will be round about half throttle trim. When happy with your idle setting set your hold position so that when hold is flicked in you dont notice any change in the engines idle speed typical idle values for my dx7 are around minus 15%
All the above may seem like faffing around but if you want a very accurate symetrical throttle curve / response it realy needs doing right.
The above is just a little of what a good freind taught me he doesnt post here much these days unfortunately.Last edited by LipolyGone; 01-03-2011, 04:29 AM.Martin
Aka RCSlopesurfer
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Nice explanation of setting up Martin.
I've got my throttle hold set to just above idle, for practising autos. It's about 8% on the DX7. It's also a good setting for warming up after first start of the day.
Mike
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Good post thanks. Revlocks are a little different, as they require an offset geometry (servo arm is at 90, but carb arm is offby 20 degrees or so)Originally posted by rcslopesurfer View PostSome throttle geometries I've seen at our flying site have made me cringe.
Its realy worth spending time getting this bit right as it affects your govenor.
1st things first get your pushrod set to the correct length.
Do this by eyeing through the ball link arm at the servo arm centre hole you can take the screw out with the arm off & put the screw through the ball link. now adjust the other ball link so that the centre of the throttle arm cap head screw is directly in the centre of the ball link hole. Now set your throttle trim to zero & pop the ball link on the throttle arm. Set a 0 25 50 75 100 throttle curve in norm mode bring the stick right back to zero throttle & put the servo horn on the servo so at zero throttle & zero trim the carb is fully shut & not binding. Slowly open the throttle to full check for binding if servo travel is to much reduce atv on throttle channel or move the ball in a hole on both horn & carb arm (these need to be the same distance out so move both not just one) idealy you need both sides of the atv to be the same value so if at full throttle the carbs fully open at +80% try to get it so at fully shut the minus value is -80% also check that at half throttle stick you get half throttle on the carb arm.
once the throttle is mechanicaly set up shut the throttle put on the glow clip & try to start it, raise the throttle trim a little at a time till the engine starts this will be round about half throttle trim. When happy with your idle setting set your hold position so that when hold is flicked in you dont notice any change in the engines idle speed typical idle values for my dx7 are around minus 15%
All the above may seem like faffing around but if you want a very accurate symetrical throttle curve / response it realy needs doing right.
The above is just a little of what a good freind taught me he doesnt post here much these days unfortunately.Harry
Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |
And a pillow for the doghouse...
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