Originally posted by JohnJ
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600/700 tail mod.
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Once you clean all the old loctite out of the hub you will find that it will take a 10mm bolt. So the mod to fit a 4mm wide bearing and a 12mm bolt, you could if you wanted use a 14mm bolt.To be honest I think 1/2 the problem is that the thread in the grip hub is not deap enough allowing too much play with the bolt fully tightened - probably why the factory chimps are tightening them up too much in the first place.
I am sure you could find the engineering principles to how long a bolt needs to be.
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It's this one:Originally posted by kairey View PostRctintin what tail rotor control arm is that you have on there doesn't look like the Align upgrade...?
Fast Lad PerformanceHenseleit TDR
V-Bar x2
SAB Goblin 700 V-Bar
SAB Black Nitro V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
T-Rex 700e DFC V-Bar
T-Rex 700N MAJ DFC V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
Synergy N7 V-Bar OS105 HZ-R
Synergy E7se V-Bar
Synergy N5c FBL V-Bar
Gaui NX7 V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
T-Rex 550 E FBL V-Bar
Gaui NX4 V-Bar
V-Control
Proud owner of TWO!! Platinum Stars!
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I added the 3rd bearings to my 700, but haven't done a test flight yet.
It seems like a good idea. Lateral play is basically gone.
Notes:
- I used a thin washer between third bearing and thrust bearing. The screw head sits cleanly on the inner race of the new bearing, so I omitted the original washer.
- After filing off the edges, the Radix blades can be folded back over the screw head (barely).
- I added some tape on the 3rd bearing to reduce play. It helps a lot, but I'm not sure how long it will last.
- The thrust bearings (upgrade tail rotor) needed some grease, badly. I wonder if they were lubricated at all at the factory.
Woohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoo -Barbra Streisand
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I fitted this mod on my 600LE this evening
Although a massive improvement I noticed on assembly that the M2 Caphead bolts supplied with the replacement CNC links don't like to be very tight at the brass bushing side otherwise quite severe binding occurs
As it stands they are 'Only Just' Nipped up and this allows a smooth & free action.
Obviously I've locktited them in but I'm still a little nervous about them!
Anyone else found this?Cheers,
Gazza
We do not stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing.
Stainburn Heli club
Trex600LE
Radix blades
Align DS610's on Cyclic
Align DS650 on Tail, Futaba GY520 Gyro
O.S 55 Powerplant O.S Powerboost muffler
Spectrum DX7
sigpic
www.aurorra.co.uk
www.fast-lad.co.uk
And a very proud owner of X3 Eddie Gold Stars
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Yep, same as. I just used locktight on the thread, and then just nipped up the bolt till binding started and then backed it off a hair.Henseleit TDR
V-Bar x2
SAB Goblin 700 V-Bar
SAB Black Nitro V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
T-Rex 700e DFC V-Bar
T-Rex 700N MAJ DFC V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
Synergy N7 V-Bar OS105 HZ-R
Synergy E7se V-Bar
Synergy N5c FBL V-Bar
Gaui NX7 V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
T-Rex 550 E FBL V-Bar
Gaui NX4 V-Bar
V-Control
Proud owner of TWO!! Platinum Stars!
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Hint:
CNC links are IMO not that great, because they are heavier than plastic.
It may even overload the tail servo, if it was already "on the edge".
It's hard to believe, until you've tried to spin up the heli on the bench without blades, and operate the rudder pushrod by hand (this experiment is easily done on a 450). The return force caused by such links trying to fly away is amazing: Of course they can't fly away, but they will always spin on the biggest possible circle, unless forced otherwise. That's the problem solved by "chinese weights".
PS: Test flights on my two 700s are done, and it works just as expected.Woohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoo -Barbra Streisand
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