trex 600 upgrades?

[barney]

The Metals uppers wont do any harm and dont flex in flight. The the plastic uppers will a very small amount but not enough to make any real difference. The trouble is they bend just about every time you put it in. Hence spending the money elsewhere offers a bigger benefit.

The A arm does away with the swash guide that can flex esp near the top of its travel.

The lower metal mixers have a different Y arm design that have there own ball races thus preventing the washout twisting.

[barney]

Yes James..I hadn't flown the one with the plastic grips for a while..It reminded me of the Trex250 using the standard flexi plastic blades..Bouncy but to a lesser degree.

[helical]

The lower metal mixers have a different Y arm design that have there own ball races thus preventing the washout twisting.

Could you explain this a little more...different Y arm design with ball races? Not sure I follow. Are you talking about the H60165 radius arms?

[adieuk]

Strangley enough i was thinking i breaking my NSP for spares. Quk swash, washout, boom clamp, tail stays, align tail control arm, metal a-arm, metal fan, black metal parts all round. Also got the orignal black NSP swashplate.

If anyone wants any of it post back on here. If not i will be making a thread for it at some point as all parts are still on the heli just now.

can you tell me mate how much are you looking for the upgrade parts
can you pm me a price please m8

[moyesboy]

Interesting thread.
My new to me sport is now ready to go with the 3D swash and lower arms already on it and K&B yellow dampers. Can't give an opinion on it compared to my pro yet.

[barney]

Hi Helical. The Sport and Pro use different Y arm than the Super Pro.

If you look at a Trex 600 Superpro or Trex 700 the Y links that go to the swash are secured via ball races to the lower mixing arm. This prevents them twisting as the standard Sport/Pro just uses a shouldered bolt that allows a fair bit of movement. These combined with the A arm reduce any washout twisting to a minimium.

Brian

[gazza]

Strangley enough i was thinking i breaking my NSP for spares. Quk swash, washout, boom clamp, tail stays, align tail control arm, metal a-arm, metal fan, black metal parts all round. Also got the orignal black NSP swashplate.

If anyone wants any of it post back on here. If not i will be making a thread for it at some point as all parts are still on the heli just now.

I'd be interested in this little lot too

[helical]

Hi Helical. The Sport and Pro use different Y arm than the Super Pro.

If you look at a Trex 600 Superpro or Trex 700 the Y links that go to the swash are secured via ball races to the lower mixing arm. This prevents them twisting as the standard Sport/Pro just uses a shouldered bolt that allows a fair bit of movement. These combined with the A arm reduce any washout twisting to a minimium.

Brian

Never saw that improvement before...thanks!

[Tom Burgess]

Never saw that improvement before...thanks!

me either, cheers Brian

[TimmyB]

Which dampers would you recommend Brian?

[barney]

Dampners are a consumable. All lot depends on how your flying it, how quick they wear. I've found a couple times there is a very small difference in the length of the spindles from the packet.. This leaves the dampning across the head a little to loose with the resultant fast wear even using the 90 duro and tube.

3 things you can do..make sure you track your blades at as low a H/S as poss as the blade pull will straighten it out all out at higher headspeeds masking the problem but knock hell out of the dampners (note this applies to the 700 even more.)

Reduce any spindle end float with shims. (remember the spindle lengths seem a little out on occasion on the ones I got) I aim to shim it till its just starting wobble a touch at low H/S but dont go daft or you will kill the thrust bearings.

Dont overlube..just a wipe with a greasy finger is all you need on spindle only.

Other Dampners I liked was Nigel Fraser Kerrs PTFE...alas I wore them out but they make for a tight responsive setup but pricey

Usually you can turn the inner dampner on Aligns to face the other directon if you can be bothered as they seem to get squished in a little on the inside against the headblock..

Dampner material. Seems to me the harder rubber dampners deform after a couple squishes, but after they deform and seem be slow to recover..this was really obvious with the Thunder tiger Reds. after sitting a few seconds the spring back slowly. Soft ones spring back straight away..

Someone needs to get the hard 80/90 duros to recover like this.

Other tricks are a wrap or two of tape on the spindles before sliding on the dampners..Trex700/500..+ others

[TimmyB]

Thanks Brian thats very helpfull advice. I've ordered the upgrade bits you recommended plus a fresh set of 90 duro dampers. Once I've got it all together I'll follow your tracking procedure. Just a couple of questions..

You say shim it till it starts to wobble. Do you mean like a nod on spoolup? Also whats a good source of shims?

I've heard some people say to replace the plastic hexagonal bolt/spacer things inside the tail boom case with metal items. Whats your view on that?

Dont know if you remember we had a conversation in Phoenix ages ago on this subject and you said the stock plastic flybar paddles were the most responsive. Are you still of the same opinion?

Another quickie while I'm on a roll. Tail servo mount up front or out back?

Cheers!!

[barney]

Hi Timmy, up front for the servo.

No its the Align black 12 G carbon paddles are the fastest I've used. The plastics are about the same as the 16G White Superpro paddles.

The K&BB plastics or whatever on the rear hole are not to bad either about £8 and being plastic survive usually. If you want to throw money at it CY Stubs..

A lot will depend on the blades you fit..The Aligns are pretty fast if thats what you have.

Dampning..I shim it between the brass washer and the rubber till the blade grips when rotated you can just feel the thrusts beginning to be notchy. I then pull evenly both grips hard to make sure they become free. Its either Raptor 90 or Robbe feathering spindle shims.

Both mine have the alloy Hex's now as the plastic ones tend to strip after a while.

GTG MRS is on my case..LOL