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700 Main gear stripped.
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Hirobo Turbulence D3
a bunch of bls servo's and a 701 gyro
Powered by an OS91 hz and a MP2
Winner of the LHC Scale Cup 2011
1/4 scale Vario Bell 47 G3
1/3 scale Vario R22
2012 LHC Scale Cup Judge
member of save the flybar foundation
www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org
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I was just looking for the actual paypal address - and can no longer find it.
Oops!!
Someone will chime in, I'm sure.
Cheers,
RobTeam Align, Midland Helicopters, Optifuel, Cyclone Blades, Scorpion Motors, Thunder Power, Savox Servos, JR Propo
| 3D Championship
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bout 6 gallons of fuel and quite hard flights...guess what????
no main gear issues at all..i actually purchased new gears ready and they are sitting here still in the bag
so everythings good here,,no issues.actually im really impressed with the 700
regards craig simmonsBlack Country Helicopter club.
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Has anyone really solved the 700 main gear problem? Mine stripped after only about 4 gallons of very mild (F3Cish, no 3D) flying. The mesh was always a bit slack and it made some gear noise, not enough to worry about however.
So after the strip I bought the Microheli mod-1 main gear/pinion. I figure the additional tooth depth should mask a slightly loose mesh. Big mistake - now the mesh is even looser, and it makes an absolutely horrible noise in flight! No way I'm flying the mod-1 gear unless I can adjust the mesh properly.
Having trawled the forums for info, there are some that have stripped mod-1 gears just as they did the original gear, so I'm not convinced a mod-1 gear will significantly compensate for a bad mesh. I guess a slightly bad mesh might be covered, but nothing as bad as mine.
What next then? I bought the new Align standard main gear - i.e. the bigger one. Now guess what? The it's too big and I now have a tight main drive train! It really is borderline - it may bed in after a few flights at the cost of very short bearing life. Go trawling again and you'll find I'm not the only one with this problem either.
This is a really poor situation. I've hear nothing from Align or their representatives apart from denials, then they quietly release a bigger main gear that could actually make things worse!
I can believe that a 3rd main shaft would reduce flex that would probably help the hard 3Ders out (because there is less chance of the gears running out of line), but not my mild flying. I did however fit a metal clutch block because it was easy to fit and might just help.
It seems to me the fundamental problem is the reliance on manufacturing accuracy when it comes to gear mesh. Some will come out loose and others tight. If you're lucky and get something in the middle you get to fly 100+ hard 3D flights and still no main gear stripping. Or you can be unlucky like me and it strips after a few gallons flying around like a granny.
Without filling main frame holes into slots there is no wiggle-room for adjustment. The trouble is filing the holes to give me some room to adjust mesh is going increase the chance of getting things out of line.
Back in the old days (yes I do remember) helis came properly designed so you could adjust mesh with a chance of getting things in a straight line. Align instead decided we are too stupid to get a mesh right so they didn't give us any wiggle room and made us rely on the precision of their CNC machines and plastics moulding, which worked out just fine until the tolerances started slipping. So now we are screwed.Logo 600, VBar, Pyro 30-12, Jive, 10S
Logo 400, Mini-VBar, Scorp 3026-1400, Jive, 6S
12FG and a pile of planks
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Having chatted to Wayne Osbourne at the Mildands fly-in he told me that Duncan has not stripped a gear since he made the standard plastic housing a tighter fit on the clutch bearings. He said if you can feel lateral (side to side) play in the pinion then you are heading for a gear strip, otherwise it should all be fine.
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Appreciate the tip Ashley, however I don't even have a main gear I can use right now (mod-1 too small/noisy, new Align too big/tight). Guess I will have to try and find an old standard gear, or start filling holes into slots before I can even fly again.Logo 600, VBar, Pyro 30-12, Jive, 10S
Logo 400, Mini-VBar, Scorp 3026-1400, Jive, 6S
12FG and a pile of planks
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to adjust the gear mesh remove the std (cheese) bolts or the upgrade stepped washers and use a flat washer on the clutch bearing housing and engine mounting bolts
use std flat washers (the bigger the od the better) and std bolts
now you can use the room in the hole to adjust the mesh
you will need to file the ends of the clutch bearing peg thay fits into the frame so you can get it to move
on the 3rd mainshaft bearing i fitted one to mine using the sceadu 3rd bearing holder and an 8mm shaft bolted inside the 700 shaft and it made no difference
and if the modified plastic clutch bearing housing mod cures the problem why doesn't the upgrade ali ones cure it????????????????????Hirobo Turbulence D3
a bunch of bls servo's and a 701 gyro
Powered by an OS91 hz and a MP2
Winner of the LHC Scale Cup 2011
1/4 scale Vario Bell 47 G3
1/3 scale Vario R22
2012 LHC Scale Cup Judge
member of save the flybar foundation
www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org
sigpic
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