700 CNC Clutch Block

[raptorheli2]

it was me that requested the new adjustable block. there is no need for the little fancy brackets though imo, but it looks nice and heli guys love that. 4 new m3x10mm bolts and washers will suffice. in mean time i modded my metal clutch block from miro to be adjustable. very easy mod but if a ready to buy option exists then thats the way to go.

cheers

[t-rex pedro]

So is the original alu clutch block a waste of time and money then? If so I think quite a few people will be a bit annoyed! As I said mine seems ok but I hope I havnt wasted time and money on this mod for nothing!

[Sao]

So is the original alu clutch block a waste of time and money then? If so I think quite a few people will be a bit annoyed! As I said mine seems ok but I hope I havnt wasted time and money on this mod for nothing!

People that already purchased the standard Aluminum Block will receive a discount on this upgrade package, and can either modify their standard blocks by shortening or cutting off the lugs, or if preferred, the Modified Block can also be purchased at a discounted price.

Doesnt look like it, file down the lug on your block and if you really want the stuff he makes for adjustment by that at a discounted price.

[raptorheli2]

no you have not wasted your money. many think the block alone will fix the issue. i don't think i've seen 1 report of anyone stipping a gear using the std metal block which maybe backs this up thus far.

i moved my blocks before i got the metal one as i prefer to adjust the mesh anyway so i simply filed the lugs and moved it. 2 min job if you really want. also just get 10 new m3x10mm bolts with washers and move the mesh yourself......job done.

cheers

[t-rex pedro]

no you have not wasted your money. many think the block alone will fix the issue. i don't think i've seen 1 report of anyone stipping a gear using the std metal block which maybe backs this up thus far.

i moved my blocks before i got the metal one as i prefer to adjust the mesh anyway so i simply filed the lugs and moved it. 2 min job if you really want. also just get 10 new m3x10mm bolts with washers and move the mesh yourself......job done.

cheers

Ok, thanks for the info mate. I'll just run it the way it is for now. Fingers crossed it will be ok as I really dont want to strip it down again.

[Tim Procter]

Well new bearing block fitted.

What a bloody job squeeezing that thing in there without parting the frame.

Took about 1 1/2 hours to fit taking into account...... More drilling required on one cheesy bolt but everything looking very rigid now.

Fitted the new flanged spacers I bought with some new M3 HT bolts so everything looking much more solid now as stated

Test flight tomorrow all being well.

[Ashley Davis]

fitted mine tonight as well, what an arse of a job it is......hopefully worth it.

[t-rex pedro]

My point exactly chaps! I dont really want to pull it apart again to install the 'revised' block design or modify this one. Hopefully this is the cure!! Keeping my fingers crossed.

[electricsceadu]

i think i'm going to file the lug length down and fit some of the quick uk washers/socket screw caps to give me some adjustment if i need it
glad i haven't got around to fitting mine yet

[machasm]

Seemed to have missed the post about adjusting the block.
Anyone got a link or info on it?
Cheers.

[electricsceadu]

adrian look at t-rex pedro's posts on page 2
there is an updated ali block being made to allow adjustment of the mesh with an adjustment kit (this kit is not yet available)
but you can get around not having the adjusting kit by using flat washers on the clutch bearing block and engine mounting bolts, you file the lug to shorten it, then just slide the block to adjust the mesh just like the raptor 60/90

[machasm]

adrian look at t-rex pedro's posts on page 2
there is an updated ali block being made to allow adjustment of the mesh with an adjustment kit (this kit is not yet available)
but you can get around not having the adjusting kit by using flat washers on the clutch bearing block and engine mounting bolts, you file the lug to shorten it, then just slide the block to adjust the mesh just like the raptor 60/90

So am I to assume you mean file the lugs off so they don't locate into the side frames AND elongate the the holes in the frame to allow you to slide the block forward?
Without elongating the holes surely you still wont be able to move the block?
One other thing. Doesn't the idea of the holes and lugs hold the block rigid?
Surely with slots there is a danger that the forces acting on all this would be anough to slide the block back?

[Sao]

Just file a small bit of the lug off to allow some movement not the entire lug.
If you use std hex bolts and some washers you won't have to elongate the screw holes in the frames.

[Made2Fade]

quick question... has anyone that has one of these blocks fitted even stripped their main gear since changing?

Cheers
Lee

[raptorheli2]

not that i have seen on any forum.

cheers