700 CNC Clutch Block

[t-rex pedro]

Hi guys

I stripped the main gear on my 700 last weekend so promptly ordered the CNC clutch block from Fastlads. It arrived today and I fitted it tonight. The quality is top notch with brilliant machining. Really easy to fit but a bit time consuming once I had dremmeled out 5 cap head 700 screws!!!!

Anyway, engine out, frame screws loosened old block out, new one in. You have to heat it slightly to get the bearings in but thats no drama as they drop in easily. All now rebuilt and ready to fly. I'll let you all know how it goes in the next few days.

Top tip: Get a couple packs of 600 cap head frame screws. The hex insert is much deeper than the 700 ones hence more of a purchase with the tools to get them out when the time arises. Just go easy on the locktite (two threads will be plenty). The 600 ones are also a tad longer giving a little more security. I replaced all the original 700 ones with these as I went through the rebuild.

Cheers

[Made2Fade]

Done mine last night, looking forward to seeing if this sorts the problem out. Did you check to see if the original block had ovaled any? Checked mine and there seemed to be a small amount but wouldnt have thought it was enough to strip the gear. Suppose we'll just have to see.

Cheers
Lee

[t-rex pedro]

I thought the same tbh Lee. The plastic block moved a tiny bit but nothing I would ever worry about and certainly wouldnt have considered it enough to strip gears. I'm not actually sure if the mesh is any better with the CNC part but time will tell.

[mattie-lodge]

So guys, what the theory behind this one then?

Is it to stop possible movement in the clutch housing?

[Tim Procter]

Mine came today so that could be tomorrow nights job.

More drilling cheesy bolts out.

[electricsceadu]

my cnc block turned up today (thanks fast lad)
but i've not had the time to look at changing it over
and the align chedder screws, i've got the stepped washer kit of fleabay and some cap head allen screws

[t-rex pedro]

Mattie - Yup!!

The theory is the plastic block can flex in flight causing a mis-alignment and can strip the main gear. Worth a shot as when my main gear went so did my arse!!!

[Made2Fade]

So guys, what the theory behind this one then?

Is it to stop possible movement in the clutch housing?

Basically its to stop the bearings ovaling the stock plastic block when under stressful loads. Apparently it contributes to stripping the main gears as can make them misalign or something, but we'll just have to see.

Cheers
Lee

[barney]

IMHO I'm not 100% convinced that its a full cure.

The Extra stiffness of the new block will add rigidity and keep the pinion centred but it still wont prevent the frames flexing across the main gear opening.

I still think the missing 3rd mainshaft bearing block is a contributing factor as the maingear is at the bottom of the shaft and the slightest movement takes it out of alignment in relation to the pinion. I suspect there is a lot more force being transfered via the Rotordisk through the frames as there is considerably more leverage than on the motor/pinion

Just have to see if its enough over a reasonable period of time.

cheers Brian

[machasm]

Fitted mine too tonight along with a heavy duty clutch, quick uk tail grips, quickuk servo horns,quickuk blade grip balls.
600 also re-built with quickuk swash all ready to go.
What a day!
Only one rounded cheese bolt on the elevator servo. (removed it to fit new clutch).
I'm off to bed.
Round Dan's again tomorrow. Feel like I'm burning it at both ends.
Good night all.

[raptorheli2]

IMHO I'm not 100% convinced that its a full cure.

The Extra stiffness of the new block will add rigidity and keep the pinion centred but it still wont prevent the frames flexing across the main gear opening.

I still think the missing 3rd mainshaft bearing block is a contributing factor as the maingear is at the bottom of the shaft and the slightest movement takes it out of alignment in relation to the pinion. I suspect there is a lot more force being transfered via the Rotordisk through the frames as there is considerably more leverage than on the motor/pinion

Just have to see if its enough over a reasonable period of time.

cheers Brian

i completely agree with this, i would like a 3rd bearing block and i have requested a conversion kit for one..........watch this space.

the only other good news is a mod 1 gear kit is coming, i will have a prototype shortly which i think will cure it. (read as hide it).

i have the metal block and moved my mesh on both my 700's as thats about the best can do mean time. why align never put a 3rd block on this i don't know, there is room to do it.

cheers

[mattie-lodge]

Interesting, I built a trex 600esp the other day and they have ommitted the thrid bearing block from this airframe as well. I wonder why? All previous versions had them fitted.

[Stuart]

I would agree with you barney in your assessment, the engine and pinion will be very much fixed in position - yes maybe slightly more so with the new CNC block. But its the Head loads being transfered down the main shaft that will over time create the biggest movement in the main gear.

I've already replaced the main block bearings in my 600NSP as they were showing movement just simply pushing the head sideways you will see a difference from a new machine to ones that's been thrashed about.

So with the 700 only have the two block's to take the load on a far bigger machine from the head. The metal bearing holders also don't give as much as the plastic ones so you should find bearing wear quicker on these versions.

To fully cure this I would foresee the need for a third block also. But with so many kits out in the market. This would require giving every purchaser a new frameset + Bearing block otherwise you can image the damage it would do to Align's rep if they didn't - leave a sour taste in many mouths.

Its well designed machine like the rest of the Align range, but lack of serious testing in a rush to hit the shelf's could leave them with some egg on face I fear.

[jamiem]

Too many align fanboys for them to worry too much about releasing new frame sets for free etc. It will simply be called the v2 and everyone will spend another £500 odd on it...

[t-rex pedro]

Update: Flew the 700 this morning (only a couple of tanks). Tried loading up the head best I could and the main gear stayed intact. This is of course very early days so we shall see.

BUT I am not very happy as I have just read over on the Freak that Miro (the alu block manufacture) is releasing a revised version which comes with brackets allowing you to move the engine and clutch block within the frames. Why didnt they do this in the first place as the existing block will need to be modified to make use of the new brackets?!!! Anyway, I'm leaving mine as it is now.

On a seperate note I had some strange vibrations last time I flew this heli so ended up trying a boom strut brace from Helidirect. This seems to have sorted that issue and TBH my 700 is smooth as silk now. Just hope it stays that way!

Edit: Heres the link. They are also producing MOD 1 gears.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....114423&page=16