600nsp begginer

[diozxlive]

need help guys this is my first nitro heli and having problem starting an os50hyper. it seems that the fuel is not gettin into the engine. if i check the fuel filter and plug the muffler still no fuel getting. in... what should be the throttle position when starting fully open or shut? how do you prime throttle closed or wide open? would it start even if i am in the throttle hold? tried to start it with electric starter till my starter battery ran out of juice. please help... need to start it this weekend...

[Made2Fade]

Strange because I had the exact same problem when i started mine from new... i squeezed the pipes and eventually seen the fuel running to the carb then it started straight away. Trex 600 NSP also. What fuel ya using??? I was using Curtis wildcat 3DLV. Squeeze the fuel lines until it runs to the carb. You could blow down the pipe also but be careful not to flood the engine. All i put mine down to was an air block in the tank. Started no bother after the first tank.

Cheers
Lee

[machasm]

Funny,
I had the same problem until I realised that I still had the muffler Butt plug in!
Doh.
Also check that the inline filter isn't reversed.
It should start with a little throttle. Not wide open.
Adrian.

[Made2Fade]

Funny,
I had the same problem until I realised that I still had the muffler Butt plug in!
Doh.
Also check that the inline filter isn't reversed.
It should start with a little throttle. Not wide open.
Adrian.

Thats the first 2 things i checked but 1/ i havent purchased a pipe plug for it yet and 2/ the filter was fitted correctly with the arrow pointing the way the fuel flows. Didnt have an explanation for why it done it but after i squeezed the pipes a few times the fuel started flowing and it started no bother. Very strange. 1 thing i will say is i have a header tank on. diozxlive have you? Maybe this had something to do with it. You'l probably find it fine once youve started it once.


Cheers
Lee

[Steve]

An easy way to prime the engine and get the fuel up to the carb is to open the throttle fully, making sure the glow driver is NOT connected, stick a finger over the muffler outlet and spin the engine with the starter for a couple of seconds.

Keep an eye on the tank/header to carb fuel line to see if the fuel is moving rapidly in the right direction.

Then go back to normal starting position i.e. throttle on tick-over position and glow driver attached - should fire up instantly.

[Made2Fade]

Tried the normal method but still nothing, it was very strange. No longer a problem for me now but just thought id mention it seeing as it only happened to me from new and exactly the same as diozxlive described really. Theres a few things to try there mate. Let us know if you get it started.

Lee

[diozxlive]

thanks....

Thanks guys i think i found the problem... please forgive a newbie but i was on throttle hold... and setting was almost shut so no fuel getting in the carb. anyways i'll try to start it again and hope that it will. fuel is coolpower align muffler and no header tank.

[garydraf]

I assume you started up on trottle hold because you come from an electric heli background where hold is the only way of making sure you don't get beaten up by rotor blades on switch on? Personally i do the same, however after initally setting up a nitro heli i always start in normal mode but hold the head to stop it turning as you don't yet know if you have hold setup corectly until you get the engine running and adjust the hold position to acheive a smooth reliable idle.
But certainly keep on using throttle hold, it's safer, especially if your carying the heli and tx on your own.

[shaun.e]

I also have a new 600 NSP and am new to ic engines. What fuel is recommended when running in a new engine?

[steelie600]

I also have a new 600 NSP and am new to ic engines. What fuel is recommended when running in a new engine?

here is my set up guide to the os hyper.

initially run your engine in on low nitro fuel (i use cool power 15%) on tick over only! dont be tempted to rev engine, once it will idle leave it there untill tank runs out and dont stop it let it run out on its own it will stop of its own accord. Next tank run it at approx 20% throttle and no pitch so it wont take off. Again let it run out on its own. Next tank use yer curtis 30% oor magnum 30%, the 50 really need 30% to get the best power out of it, and hover it out and do the same for another 2 tanks. Now we are bedded in and can set mixtures.
Fit new plug (os no 8) regardless of whether the original is ok or not. and what you wanna do now is weaken low end first by turning slotted screw to the right about 1/8th of a turn, and see if it revs cleanly from tick over, if it doesnt weaken it more, you want it so it just revs cleanly (IE dont weaken it too much but just enogh iykwim). now we move to the high end screw, (knurled knob). Hover heli or fly about for a minumum of 2 mins, then land and test back plate if still cool you can weaken off, ultimate power will be attained when you can hold finger on back for about 8 secs before you get burned, HOWEVER in the early gallons you will be best running it cool and when its had about 5 gallons through it then go for ultimate power. Thats what i did with mine and its was still going very strong upto 25 gallons still on the original bearings. Which is apperently unheard of!!
When you have finished flying for the day make sure you empty the crankcases of fuel by running it out of fuel EVERYTIME, and always remeber to fit an exhaust plug, i also turn the throttle arm so its fully closed, this stops any moisture getting inside the engine and corroding anything and also helps with preservation of clunklines as they are not exposed to the air.

Hope this helps

[diozxlive]

i came from electric helis thats why its by instict to switch the throttle hold everytime. hopefully i can set it up after breaking the engine...
i did run it yesterday but no way i can get it to idle. anything above half throttle and still too rich ended up at 1 1/4 turn just to keep the engine running. can i adjust the mixture screw ie. lean it a bit so i can have a reliable idle? i'm only using 10% coolpower since that's the only thing available here... thanks...

[Mike W]

yeh ya can adjust the low end needle to get the idle consistent... keep the top end rich tho till its run in .. once its run in .... then use the back plate method to set up the high speed needle and then the pinch method on the low end needle ...

high speed needle. ....touch the back plate and see how hot it is .. ya shud be able to keep ya finger on it comfortably for 6-8 seconds or there abouts ...

Low speed needle .... pinch the fuel tube into the carb and see how they react ....it shud idle for 3-5 seconds then try to die ... n e longer too rich .. cuts out straight away and its too lean ... its a game trying to get a heli engine nice ... the more ya do it the easier it gets ....

[shaun.e]

here is my set up guide to the os hyper.

initially run your engine in on low nitro fuel (i use cool power 15%) on tick over only! dont be tempted to rev engine, once it will idle leave it there untill tank runs out and dont stop it let it run out on its own it will stop of its own accord. Next tank run it at approx 20% throttle and no pitch so it wont take off. Again let it run out on its own. Next tank use yer curtis 30% oor magnum 30%, the 50 really need 30% to get the best power out of it, and hover it out and do the same for another 2 tanks. Now we are bedded in and can set mixtures.
Fit new plug (os no 8) regardless of whether the original is ok or not. and what you wanna do now is weaken low end first by turning slotted screw to the right about 1/8th of a turn, and see if it revs cleanly from tick over, if it doesnt weaken it more, you want it so it just revs cleanly (IE dont weaken it too much but just enogh iykwim). now we move to the high end screw, (knurled knob). Hover heli or fly about for a minumum of 2 mins, then land and test back plate if still cool you can weaken off, ultimate power will be attained when you can hold finger on back for about 8 secs before you get burned, HOWEVER in the early gallons you will be best running it cool and when its had about 5 gallons through it then go for ultimate power. Thats what i did with mine and its was still going very strong upto 25 gallons still on the original bearings. Which is apperently unheard of!!
When you have finished flying for the day make sure you empty the crankcases of fuel by running it out of fuel EVERYTIME, and always remeber to fit an exhaust plug, i also turn the throttle arm so its fully closed, this stops any moisture getting inside the engine and corroding anything and also helps with preservation of clunklines as they are not exposed to the air.

Hope this helps

Thanks Big Kev,
Can this process be carried out on the bench (ie workmate) with the heli tied-down and do blades or a head-loader have to be fitted for the first tank?
When finished flying, I have read that its a good idea to refuel to remove exhaust gasses from the tank and then de-fuel prior to transport home. Finally, what about after-run oil (what is after-run oil?) in the cylinder - any thoughts?
Regards

[chugga-bug]

After run oil is always a good idea as any un-burnt nitro still in the engine will corrode the bearings.
Also methanol is hydro-scopic (think that's the phrase?) i.e. it absorbs moisture, which won't do the bearings any favours at all. A light coating of oil wiil protect them.