2nd AleeS Rush build thread!

[3DBish]

So, I have managed to get my hands on TWO of the brand new AleeS Rush from Charley Stephens via our own importers Climb-out ltd. I posted on my midland helicopters profile that I was looking to fly two exactly the same 90 size electric helicopters well... This was the model that I had in mind .

I have extremely enjoyed the builds on both models, the first I started and finished on Friday taking 7 1/2 hours and the one today only took 5 1/2 (no fannying around taking photo's ect) .

So here is the extremely colourful box that the model comes in. Fortunately the great design on the box is continued within...


canopying the big box with skids and main gear, boom tt tail push rod and boom supports in the long box. Every metal part has its own foam cut out to give it maximum protection, much like the outrage kits.










all of the carbon sits below the canopy box, and there is a lot of carbon!!! There's is no plastic anywhere on the machine... Nice


The stunning canopy... Like marmite I've heard people that like it and those who don't, I love it


and finally the boom .


So that's what you get in the box! Time to start building I think

[3DBish]

The build starts with the head. You can always judge the quality of a kit by the quality of the metal used. I am always a bit warey about over tightening screws as it always such a pain trying to get them out. With this kit I never felt like I was over tightening everything, the screws have an extremely positive feel and didn't strip one! You definately do have to wipe every screw with tissue as they still have oil residue on them, standard practice really! .

Exploded diagram:


Blade grips:


The head block with the washout arms. The arms also act as pitch links, a design never seen before. The arms slide onto a projection formed on the head block and held in via 8mm screw. BUILD TIP: screw lower head block screws in before washout arms as head of the screw does not pass the washout arm.


Standard thrust bearings:


Swash plate and ball links. I removed each of the 6 screws on top, added locktite and replaced them. They were already quite tight but I removed every screw on every pre assembled part to add locktite to make sure, again standard practice .


The finished article:


Next is the motor mounting...

[3DBish]

Next it's time for the main shaft bearing blocks. There are two screws provided to screw into the block to hold each bearing in place. Overall there are 3 bearing blocks to hold the Main shaft. The two shown in the first picture and the 3rd attached to the motor mount. The main shaft is held in place by moving the bottom bearing block upwards to 'squeeze' the main gear towards the middle mount to relieve all play .

Top and bottom bearing blocks.


Middle bearing block and motor mount. Note the long screw holes. This is so the motor mount can move forwards or backwards altering the pinion mesh to the main gear.


How they look before being mounted to the frame


The layout on the frame


Note the motor shaft fitting into its support bearing. This refuses any flex that may be inflicted onto the shaft.


Lovely bit of branding on the side frame . Also protecting the beautiful carbon sandwiched between.


And viola!! All fitted securely.

Next... Battery mounting

[ade999]

Looking good jack

[3DBish]

So all in all the frames are SIX layers deep. The bottom of each side frame is doubled up to reduce risk of them breaking In a crash and there are two carbon battery trays in the centre. The trays in the centre of the fame are spaced by 6 aluminium inserts pictured here...


View along the frame


After this step it is time to put together the A frame. This picture shows how the A frame goes together.


The A frame and the bell cranks:


The tail hub. This comes in two sections joined together by a single carbon plate and 4 screws (only 2 pictured). NOTE: the unit on the left also has two screws on the top and bottom securing the umbrella gear in place. These need removing and locktiting as they were loose.


A frame and tail hub fitted to the frame.


The two frames pieced together with carbon plates for gyro mounting, centre frame. Esc mounting, top frame. Receiver pack/receiver mounting front. These frames are rather fiddly to get together so have patience lol.


Next... Undercarriage and main gear

[Charley Stephens]

Nice thread Jack!

[3DBish]

Well it's been a few days but I've been moving into my new flat in London so I hope I'm excused!! Lol. As promised these next steps will show the undercarriage mounting, main gear assembly and attaching the rotor head to the model.

The undercarriage is held onto the model via 4 bolts screwing into 'L' shaped aluminium inserts. (these can be seen in the last picture in my prevous post). The screws each pass through their own washer before tightening. I have mounted by skids backwards to help keep my tail out of the dirt on a botched auto and also to give a better tail clearance as I shall be using 110/115mm tail blades. you can also see down the frames in this picture to give you an idea of how everything fits.


Another view of the u/c and the frames:


As I am following the manual in this thread, next up is the main gear and auto hub assembly. I have position the gears and screws to show what goes where and what it does lol. The auto hub is held together by 6 screws and the main gear is held on also by 6. At no point at this stage did I feel that anything I was holding was not of superior quality, everything fits perfectly and the screw holes are tapped just right for the provided screws, no cross threading nothing just screw until they're tight .


Once the main gear is put together we go about fitting it into the model. The main shaft slides through the bearing locks and through the main gear where it is held by bold and nut. To relieve all up and down play from the head the main gear is squeezed between the lower two bearing blocks. This is done by inserting the bolt seen resting on the side frame into the bottom of the main shaft and then pulling up of the head. This bolt pulls up the bottom bearing block leaving no gaps between it and the auto hub .


Body... DONE


Next we look at the tail...