New Rush build complete

[ianflorio]

Hi Guys,

I have completed my rush build and maidened last week end, however I have an issue I'd like some advice on please. All my links, especially on the head are very tight which I think is causing my vbar some issues as it is very glittery, unresponsive to small inputs on the sticks, momentary pause then a large movement of the helicopter almost as if the vbar is trying to move the swash plate in response to my stick movements not initially overcoming the resistance of the links so moving the servos further, at which point it breaks the resistance but ends up putting in a big input to the swash plate. I am not keen on reaming any links because a) I don't have a reaming tool and b) I concerned I'll ream too much and introduce slop in to the head. Someone at my club has suggested using a hair dryer to relex the links a little: is this a good idea or do I just need to put up with it and let the links naturally bed in. If i let them bed in approximately how many flights is this going to take please or do you think this issue is caused by another problem?

Also can anyone post a link to alternative canopy mounts as I prefer thumb screw or maybe magnet mounts rather than the push on mounts it currently has (struggling to get the canopy on and off and don't want to damage it) please

Thanks in advance

Ian

[waveydavey]

I'd go for reaming them, it's acceptable to do this just don't over do it. Buy some spare links at the same time. You are looking for them to stand up under their own weight and no resiatance when you push them with your finger. A reamer will cost a couple of quid. As for the V Bar it's doing what it should, not sure about slamming the swash over though that sounds odd but the unit doesn't know it has to overcome tight links and is assuming that the heli should be rolling or pitching, IE what your fingers are doing if it's not it will add more roll or pitch in order to match the roll/pitch rate with what you've asked for.

[pgkevet]

I haven't tried it but recall an article some years back suggesting one just pop a ball into a drill add a drop of veggie oil and spin it in the link.

[ianflorio]

I'm sure the vbar is doing what it should it's just adding extra servo movement to overcome the additional resistance of the links, which is too much when it does overcome the links causing the heli to appear out of control. I'll look into a reamer and go carefully.
Thanks for the info
Ian

[Ian_R]

For ones that are just a bit tight I've found that two squeezes of each link with a pair of pliers, the second squeeze at 90 deg. to the other, works the plastic & loosens them up. For those that are a bit tighter I put a spare ball in a drill, dip it in autosol polish and then pop on the link before spinning the ball, just don't let it get too hot.

If they are very very tight I'd check that the balls are the right diameter for the links. I've had the wrong size balls supplied in a pro-spec RC car kit before.

[Planehazza]

Pretty much every ALeeS kit is like this. The ones to the head were phenomanally tight on mine. As said, just pop them onto the balls and carefully give them a gently nip with pliers to stretch the plastic ever so slightly.

[ianflorio]

Thanks everyone for your advice. I've nicked my girlfriend's hair dryer. I'm going to try that first then the pliers as suggested. I'll let you know how I get on

[dunkonu23]

Do not use pliers to size the links. This will deform the link and weaken them. Do not size the links from the swash follower/pitch arms to the pitch arms on the grips. If you do not want to get a ball link sizer, you can get a spare ball, score it one time with an xacto knife, then install it on a spare servo arm. Put the link to be sized on the scored ball, then rotate the servo arm slowly. Test size throughout this process.

Scott

[ianflorio]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the tips so far. I tried the hair dryer trick and this seems to have helped, the links are much smoother than they were, still quite tight but definately better. I have been reading the posts on Helifreak and saw Planehazza had a vibration issue which was partially cured by remounting the vbar sensor from the back above the TT gears to the front gyro tray, What are peoples opinions on this as I currently have mine mounted on the back and wondered if vibrations from the TT gears was exaggerating my disconnected feel.

Thanks in advance
Ian

[Planehazza]

Turns out it was the tail hub. It is very slightly still there but does not cause an issue in flight. From memory, moving sensor didn't cause a great difference. If you like, when I'm back home this afternoon, I can take some images of the layout on mine?

[ianflorio]

Hi Harry,
Thank you, that would be greatly appreciated.
Ian