painting tips-----i need some

[nitromad]

hi all

im in middle of painting my r22 but having trouble getting a good finish. this how i do it.

1 clean body
2 prime let dry and sand
3 clean and paint color let dry 1-2 days
4 clean and laquer.


so far i done ok part from main cabin was too dark (think too dark of primer needed more coats of white). then the finish was too "flat" even with laquer also it glaze over and winkled so i am in middle of sanding it back.

before i paint again i after some tips. from hopfully painters but anyone can put a tip in here

nitromad

[DanWright]

I used to spray my power boats with paints from halfords, I'm not telling you to suck eggs but this is the way I did it. I'd get the surface smooth and free from any defects, then cleaned it with warm soapy water and let it dry naturally. Then primed it with a similar colour primer (one or two coats) then sanded with very fine wet & dry to give a smooth surface to paint on. Then Id apply the chosen colour. I did this in lots of coats. First coat was so fine you could still see the primer through it. The coats that went on after we're a little thicker but not much. I'd probably but a coat a day on until I was happy with the final coat. Left it to dry a few days, then laqued it (maybe 2 or 3 coats)
Don't know if this of any help but it's how I did it

[rachel]

It sounds like you have had a reaction,
Here is how I paint my canopies , hope it helps .
First I sand and then base coat with white automotive base coat ( not halford etc I go to a local paint supplier and get proper car paints in an aerosol )
Then I sand with 600 grit wet with slightly soapy water.

Mask and add the colours , again automotive base coats. Btw they are mat.
When dry about an hour, I clear coat with a two pack lacquer , I am lucky I work in a garage , and 2 pack lacquer is poisonous so the best thing is to get a local car repair place to do that bit.

Never wipe off the canopy with anything other than a panel wipe and watch what sort of rags you use.
Hope some of this helps
X Rachel

[Gixxer]

If it's bloomed (gone dull), you're probably painting it somewhere damp and/or cold. Spraying it somewhere warm and dry should cure the problem.

If it crazed or cracked, the paints probably weren't compatible.

[buckers]

so far i done ok part from main cabin was too dark (think too dark of primer needed more coats of white). then the finish was too "flat" even with laquer also it glaze over and winkled so i am in middle of sanding it back.

Are you saying that you used a dark coloured primer, then put white over it? Why not use white primer if the top coat is going to be white.

The lacquer finishing problem could be several things, but if it's 2k clear coat, then just wet sand it back, and re-finish. The 2k clear coat will act as a barrier to anything underneath..............but I'm thinking your using 1k clear, which will seep down below and continue to react, unless you build it up in thin layers.
HTH

[nitromad]

thanks allthe model was primed grey as i was going a diffent color to one i pick color i picked needs white primer. so i spent few days putting white on.i used petrol resistent laquer (1K) and yup went down to under white primer so im in middle of full sand and re-detailing with rivots etc. i see if i can find local place to paint i think but won't hold my breath on afording it .cheers for tip help etcnitromad

[buckers]

You'll be lucky to find a 1k clear coat that's fuel resistant. I've never found one !!

[nitromad]

You'll be lucky to find a 1k clear coat that's fuel resistant. I've never found one !!

so what fuel resistant not worth it ??? the stuff i used was this Halfords | Halfords Petrol Resistant Lacquer 300ml

i gove it one more go if it fails again i have to look into haaving it painted by somone

[jamiem]

I've never seen a single pac lacquer that's fuel/oil resistant. They all go sticky and horrible pretty quickly once exposed to nitro.

You can get 2k lacquer in a tin off of eBay; the tin has a button on the bottom to release the hardener and you get around 20 minutes or so to use it before it sets in the can. It's not cheap but it is an alternative to paying a body shop. Be warned though, it's not good for your health, and from what I've seen of it, the shine and finish is far below that of a decent body shop finish.

You can do all the base coating your self and then just pass it to a body shop for lacquering. I'm sure any body shop would do it for around £20 in the pocket of the painter - they can simply lacquer it up while doing another job.

[rachel]

I have never had any luck with halfords paint , but try this method , put on two or three very light coats , I mean light a dusting like your putting on spray polish ! Letting each coat dry for five mins.
Then one heavier coat , ten Mins drying time , then a really good coat, watch for reactions , if you get any just stop , let it dry hard and try again.

Painting is all perpetration !!
As for the lacquer your local auto paint shop will do 2K lacquer in a can , but it's very poisonous !!! So only spray outside and use a mask , you have been warned.

Also use a fan heated at a distance to aid drying.

Good luck

[nitromad]

i think buy time i got a mask it might not be worth risking it also i ant got a "local auto paint shop" just a auto part shop and they do very basic primer etc

[nitromad]

ok just a little update i found a coachbuilders 2 miles away from me i thought i pop in with it for advice. very very helpful bloke he showned me how to take paint off to fiberglass gell coating .he even gave me 2 lters of tinners for free to do the job so i cleaned it like new reprimed like he told me added my details back rivets etc and dropping it off tomarrow for color and 2k laqauor hes doing the hole model for £80 ! i spent more than that on spray cans. so that the base coat of perlesant ornege and an alu color strip on main cabin and boom !! wish i did this in first place.

nitromad

ps i mean have words all messed up as i had tooth pulled yesterday and lost a bit of blood over night so bit off it lol