Is 'eyeing' the washout block phasing on an FBL head the only way?

[Guest]

I've added the "450 Pro" FBL head to my 450 Sport (and am using microbeast). This head has a separate washout block and head design.

Has anyone got any advice for getting the washout block mounted correctly? I don't know what my error is but it must be a few degrees of phasing. It's the only annoying bit of setup left now the flybar has gone.

I wish I'd got the RJX, that looks like the block is joined to the head so no chance of misalignment..

[GravityKills]

fortunately, you can do it quite accurately by eye.
Take the elevator swash ball link and one of the upper swash plate links (picture 1) between thumb and index finger (picture 2). Then look from above and align the blade grips perpendicular or parallel to the tail boom (picture 3 / 4).

[Guest]

That's useful ta, quicker and more precise than my previous method

Still don't like it though never did like eyeing things up, hate checking blade angles too.

I was thinking of machining a slit collar to sit on the swash to get the height adjustment right, and maybe some kind of fork to hook in the washout arms at the right angle so the phase angle is set correctly...

But for that effort, I may as well get a head that doesn't need all that messing with in the first place

RJX for Christmas or is there a better head?

[Hangar-7]

I use this ;



Brought it off Trillian ... but you can get them in different colour.
It can check swash levelling in a micro second without having to take any bits off.

Cheers

[millerman]

I use this ;



Brought it off Trillian ... but you can get them in different colour.
It can check swash levelling in a micro second without having to take any bits off.

Cheers

i use one of them they are very good ive used it from my 250 to 700

[Guest]

That looks nice, I can see how it'd be good for levelling the swash. If those are threaded holes I guess you can stick bolts in them to calibrate 0* for different helis.

Still stuck for a way to mechanically line up the decreasingly useful washout block with the head though.. Maybe I'll fiddle with some polymorph at work (low temperature moldable plastic), I expect a room full of engineers at lunch time would enjoy coming up with a design - among the multiple phalli, one of the results might be helpful

[GravityKills]

since the beastX doesn't have phase rotation in software, 0 degree alignment isn't the optimum anyway.
What's the point of a tool that sets 0 degrees with 0.01 degrees error, when the optimum is somewhere around 5 degrees for example?

[Guest]

since the beastX doesn't have phase rotation in software, 0 degree alignment isn't the optimum anyway.
What's the point of a tool that sets 0 degrees with 0.01 degrees error, when the optimum is somewhere around 5 degrees for example?

Ah, I did overlook that - good point!

Still, it seems attractive to have consistency - consistently wrong perhaps but I've no idea how to tune the phasing anyway. It'd be nice if the heli I got back after a rebuild behaved the same as before the crash.

For my meagre requirements, perhaps it is pointless. Just flew it and it flies the same as before my last big crunch (bit more wobbly after resetting the swash gain to default). Doubt I had the phasing the same as before. Guess it's not so important for my out-of-shape flying!

[pgkevet]

I've been trying to find more about ideal phase angle on the web with singular lack of success.

Is that angle model specific or a general ideal?

I note that on my 700 it's zero...leading edge in line with boom centra

Best way I can find for consistency is to line the outer and inner swash balls together and then eyeball (or measure) the blade along the boom after they've been run up and shaken out. You could drop a plumbline off a marked point on the blade leading edge and add a scale on the horizontal fin if you wanted to go that far?

[Jamin_00]

I dont know about the angle being model specific or general but with my 6HV from researching on HF it seems 1-2 deg is the norm.

[GravityKills]

I usually end up around 6 degrees, but I often fly a rather low-ish headspeed, and the error should reduce with higher RPMs.
I've got a bank on the V-Bar with stabilization turned off completely. I fly, flick the switch to select the bank, gently rock the heli forwards and backwards, and tweak the swash rotation until elevator-aileron interaction disappears. This is easier said than done if it's windy...