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Melted ESC and Battery EC5's

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  • #16
    90A is it's continious rating. Typically Castle ESC's will handle 150% of that for short bursts, so even if it did pull spikes of 115A that shouldnt be a problem. In any case just because you have a motor and battery capable of a certain power/current draw doesnt mean that you will ever 'see' that in practice. Neither is the components rating a 'hard stop' limit, if they were 'compromised' they could exceed those rating by a wide margin, albeit that they may be damaged in doing it.

    As others have already said, it's a moot point anyway because the ESC didnt fail, the solder joints did.
    Goblin Kraken, SoXos Strike 7, XLPower Specter, Goblin Black Thunder T, Goblin 700 Speed, Goblin 770 Comp Carbon, Trex 700X, Kasama Dune, Henseleit TDR

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    • #17
      This thread is a good reminder that proper soldering really does matter! Even the little details like cleaning off excess flux etc can make all the difference.
      SAB Goblin 380 KSE - latest love thang
      Lynx OXY 3 - my mini flagship!
      Blade 180 CFX - field beater for new moves
      Blade Red Bull BO-105 CB 130 X - scale fun flying at the field when the tail isn't broken, which is not often.
      Blade mCPX - sold

      Blade Nano QX - house fly of choice
      Blade mCX2 - retired but will be back when the kids get a bit bigger

      Spektrum DX8 - for everything
      ne
      Xt sim - the sim I started out with
      Heli-X sim - my new favourite sim!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Peteski View Post
        This thread is a good reminder that proper soldering really does matter! Even the little details like cleaning off excess flux etc can make all the difference.
        Personally I think it was the corrosion rather than poor soldering, but I will find out later!
        Oxy 2 - Spartan VX1n
        Trex 700XN - Spartan VX1n

        Trex 700N DTS - Spartan VX1n
        Logo 690SX - Spartan VX1e
        780L Top - VBar Neo
        2 x 700L Top - Spartan VX1n
        Logo 550SX - Spartan VX1n

        Goblin 570 (6s) - Spartan VX1n
        Trex 550E Pro DFC - Spartan VX1n
        Trex 450L Dominator (6s) - Spartan VX1n
        Trex 450 Plus DFC - Spartan VX1n

        Jeti DS14 BK edition
        DX9
        Pheonix R/C
        AccuRC
        neXt

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        • #19
          But things like flux residue could have caused corrosion if you didn't clean it off after soldering. However if you did clean the joint after soldering then you can rule that out as a possible cause.
          SAB Goblin 380 KSE - latest love thang
          Lynx OXY 3 - my mini flagship!
          Blade 180 CFX - field beater for new moves
          Blade Red Bull BO-105 CB 130 X - scale fun flying at the field when the tail isn't broken, which is not often.
          Blade mCPX - sold

          Blade Nano QX - house fly of choice
          Blade mCX2 - retired but will be back when the kids get a bit bigger

          Spektrum DX8 - for everything
          ne
          Xt sim - the sim I started out with
          Heli-X sim - my new favourite sim!

          Comment


          • #20
            The wires sometimes break just next to the solder joint due to fatigue from repeated bending. It's hard to see from the photos if the solder joint itself failed (bad soldering) or the failure occured in the wire next to the joint?
            Goblin Kraken, SoXos Strike 7, XLPower Specter, Goblin Black Thunder T, Goblin 700 Speed, Goblin 770 Comp Carbon, Trex 700X, Kasama Dune, Henseleit TDR

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            • #21
              99% of the problems I've seen with high resistance joints with subsequent overheating problems have been caused by bad soldering.

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