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  • BEC or Battery ?

    Hi all
    What's the feeling these days when using HV servos, is it to use a bec or lipo/ life, battery to power the servos, rx etc.
    Would welcome any thoughts, Thanks.

  • #2
    I use a 2s 5000mAh lipo for the receiver and flybarless unit on my Trex 700 HV Pro, I get around 15 flights before it needs charging
    Phil

    Trex 470 Dominator, Spirit FBL
    Trex 500L Dominator, Spirit 2 FBL
    Trex 550L Dominator Spirit 2 FBL, Talon 90 ESC Align BL730BX Motor
    Align MR25 Racing Quad
    Spektrum DX8 Gen2 DSMX Transmitter

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    • #3
      I use a 2s 2200 mah lipo for the receiver and flybarless unit on my Trex 700 HV Pro, I get at least 6 flights before it needs charging.
      Tron 7.0 advance Vbar evo V Control
      Foamy plank
      icharger 3010b, Coolice 24v psu
      Member of MK Heli Club and LMAC

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      • #4
        What's your machine and components?

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        • #5
          Thanks both for the quick reply. Nothing so big as a 700. At the moment just rebuilding a Agile 5.5. All servos are Savox and fbl is a Brain.
          I was undecided at what to get and of course a bec is more convenient but to get cog on the 5.5 I think a battery maybe better.
          It will certainly be cheaper ( money in short supply as always lol). It was the fact of having to re--charge a RX battery and of course
          the wiring was putting me off sum-what. I believe because of the current draw that the wires need to be either thicker in diameter or doubled up.
          Anyway thanks for the info, appreciate your time. Cheers

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          • #6
            I'd vote a 2s lipo and an opti guard backup.
            Harry

            Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
            Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
            SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |


            And a pillow for the doghouse...

            Powered by Futaba 18SZ

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            • #7
              A 2s LiPo with Opti Guard backup gives you the most complete solution. A straight up 2s LiPo is usually fine as long as you get one of decent quality and ensure you know the charge level before each flight.

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              • #8
                BECs in all my helis (X7+X7+Goblin 380 + T-Rex 450).
                I had Rx packs in the early days but really don't want them back. Too much hassle, too much weight, too much risk of human error and another connector that can fail.
                BTW, bad Rx-pack performance (NiCd) in extremely cold weather killed my old Raptor.
                Last edited by GravityKills; 14-06-2015, 08:24 AM.
                Woohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoo -Barbra Streisand

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by treff View Post
                  Thanks both for the quick reply. Nothing so big as a 700. At the moment just rebuilding a Agile 5.5. All servos are Savox and fbl is a Brain.
                  I was undecided at what to get and of course a bec is more convenient but to get cog on the 5.5 I think a battery maybe better.
                  It will certainly be cheaper ( money in short supply as always lol). It was the fact of having to re--charge a RX battery and of course
                  the wiring was putting me off sum-what. I believe because of the current draw that the wires need to be either thicker in diameter or doubled up.
                  Anyway thanks for the info, appreciate your time. Cheers
                  There are a lot of factors to consider, weight, convenience, cost and wiring are the things you have to balance out.

                  Sometimes the weight of a battery is needed to CG the model, if that's the case then a battery is just the simplest and easiest way to power things. If you think that might be the case it may be worth waiting until the model is nearly built so you can check the CG and see what's needed. If you don't have a problem with CG and want to keep the model lightweight, an ESC with built in BEC is the lightest and most convenient option.

                  The ideal for me if the CG is good is to have a strong BEC built in to the ESC. That's the most convenient of all, nothing to charge, no extra wiring, just plug & play. However if you don't have a strong BEC in your ESC, then it's really a case of personal preference as to whether you want to wire in a separate BEC, or just buy a battery and plug it in.
                  Helis: Oxy 2 FE / Oxy 2 Sport / Protos 380 / Oxy 4 Max / Gaui X3 380mm
                  Electronics:
                  Spartan VX1e / Spartan VX1n / Spartan VX1p / MSH Brain2 mini / Jeti DS-14
                  Sims: Realflight / AccuRC
                  / Phoenix RC (Wireless) | AccuRC (Wireless) | Realflight (Wireless)

                  Team rep for Lynx/Oxy, Founder of NightWave Systems, #450guy

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                  • #10
                    Thanks again to all for the advice and thoughts. I will probably go the battery route to begin and see from there. Again thanks for taking the time
                    to reply.

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                    • #11
                      With some of the Talon and HobbyWing ESC's having 10a BEC's they do make pretty strong alternatives to Rx packs, you just need something like an optiguard to back that up in the event of an ESC shutdown.

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                      • #12
                        A question for all the RX pack guys, when using a direct Lipo on an HV setup, do you use a switch, if you do what do you use is there a reliable solution for these currents?
                        Align 700N
                        Align 600N
                        Align 550L
                        Goblin 380
                        Lynx Oxy2
                        2 Dumb Thumbs!

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                        • #13
                          No switch for me. Just an EC3 plug which I connect/disconnect each flight. The Canopy has to come off anyway, so it's no effort.

                          If you do want to run a switch, make sure you get one that will fail in the "on" position. These are the type where usually, you remove something to power it up.
                          Current fleet: Goblin Thunder Sport (700), Trex 700L, Logo 600, Specter 700, Henseleit TDR, V-Baaa control.
                          Next heli: I have pretty much everything I want. Maybe I'll upgrade some electronics or something.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Nitro Head View Post
                            A question for all the RX pack guys, when using a direct Lipo on an HV setup, do you use a switch, if you do what do you use is there a reliable solution for these currents?
                            I have used one of these RC Gas Plane Charger Plug for Flag/Style Switch With Charger Plug Battery | eBay, never had any issues, but I'm no 3D pilot lol
                            Phil

                            Trex 470 Dominator, Spirit FBL
                            Trex 500L Dominator, Spirit 2 FBL
                            Trex 550L Dominator Spirit 2 FBL, Talon 90 ESC Align BL730BX Motor
                            Align MR25 Racing Quad
                            Spektrum DX8 Gen2 DSMX Transmitter

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                            • #15
                              My rx packs on both my 700 (HV, 2s lipo) and my 600 (2s LIFE 6.5v) are connected with a XT60 plug, no switch. From the XT60 I run two feeds into the Vortex, one into the power socket, the other into the datapod socket. This provides some redundancy and spreads the current load over two leads, I hope.

                              Both set ups have now done a couple of dozen flights with no problems.
                              Tron 7.0 advance Vbar evo V Control
                              Foamy plank
                              icharger 3010b, Coolice 24v psu
                              Member of MK Heli Club and LMAC

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