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  • Central heating woes....

    Hopefully there will be someone on here who can point me in the right direction...

    Two radiators are refusing to get even warm let alone hot. They are both on (and the only ones on) one half of the downstairs circuit. The feed for these radiators is seperate from the other radiators on the ground floor, in that the feed and return drops down from the 1st floor at different ends of the house for the two circuits.

    The plot thickens slightly. If had one of the rads off this morning, and flushed it, to find no more sludge than I would probably expect, and a now free flowing rad. Both the supply feed and the return feed both supplied water when the valves were opened, so it doesnt look like an air lock.

    Connected the rad back in, and opened the feed valve to fill (and bled at the same time). Once full I opened up the return, and the then warm radiator cooled down slowly, failing to get hot. The other rads in the house are proper hot, and the boiler is running at 80 degrees.

    If I bleed the return line (it has a bleed connector at ground level), the rads fill back up with hot water, but then once I stop bleeding the rads cool back down.

    So to me it seems that there is a problem with the return (cold) feed, however I know that it contained water at system pressure when I opened the valve, and that water was free flowing.....

    Help please :)

    James
    Logo 600 3D --- Vortex Vx1n
    JR Forza 700 --- Vortex Vx1e

    Team Macgregor flight team and Magregor industries field rep

    Co-founder of South Hants Helis - and now on Facebook
    And the proud wearer of one

  • #2
    You seem to have done the correct things to clear any air locks. However, you can adjust the stop valves on the other rads to force more to the 2 that require more.
    Each rad has a lock shield valve and the normal on/off valve.The lock shield valve is used to adjust the rads to get the correct temp in each room.
    Been there and done that, but never stop learning.
    Now too many Helis to mention?

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    • #3
      have you tried removing the thermostaic valve off the rad the top should pop off had the same problem as you removed to valves and they heated up straight away.

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      • #4
        The valves are not thermostatic, just the old style manual valve, so when they are open, I know they are open :)

        John, can you tell me, which side of the rad should the lock sheild valve be?.. they both look the same to me. If they are the same, should I have the one that is constantly set on the feed or return side of the rad?..
        Logo 600 3D --- Vortex Vx1n
        JR Forza 700 --- Vortex Vx1e

        Team Macgregor flight team and Magregor industries field rep

        Co-founder of South Hants Helis - and now on Facebook
        And the proud wearer of one

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        • #5
          The lock shield valve is usually fitted on the return side. It normal has a valve knob/handle that is fixed and does not turn. You can take it off and fit the normal turn knob/handle to adjust it. If you have turn handles on both? Then just adjust the return valve side.
          Been there and done that, but never stop learning.
          Now too many Helis to mention?

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          • #6
            When you bled the heaters did you have the boiler and pump switched off. I usually find it best to leave the system for half hour after switching off then bleed them .

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