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I started using a torch when I began standardising to EC5 and I like the torch much better than the irons I have used before. You can use the soldering tip on the torch for tinning the wires and then the open flame when you're ready to attach the bullet connector. EC5's are very easy to work with, it's really just a matter of melting a little solder in the cup, inserting the tinned wire and then apply heat for a few seconds till you see it all flow together.
Two things I'd mention are to try not to spill solder down the side of the bullet because it will become difficult to insert into the casing. It's very easy to have some solder spill over though and you can always scrape it off with a hobby knife or something. When preparing the wires you only need about 4 or 5mm of bare wire, this way when it is inserted into the casing you'll have insulation all the way in and won't need any heat-shrink or tape etc.
If you have LiPos that already have a different type of connector the torch usually makes it very easy to unsolder the old connector which then leaves you with a pre-tinned wire ready for the EC5s.
In just general soldering stuff - you always need a damp sponge to clean the soldering tip and that mysterious magical stuff that is known as flux and proper 60/40 lead solder.
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I use an iron because I dont have a torch.
I have a chunk of floor board with a small hole in it that I sit the pin about halve way in so its nice and solid when I go to solder. Put some solder in the pin, tin the wire then stick the iron in the pin with the wire on the iron as well so both melt then dip it in. Helps to have them both freshly tinned and hot. With a 70w iron no problem getting hot enough an fully flowing. If we are not 100% sure it flowed properly you can easily reheat the pin while its still hot and get it to all flow agian.
Take several seconds to set so fairly sure I have it all hot enough. None failed as yet.
All other tips above all good.
Happy soldering. :-)
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The golden rule of soldering: keep everything clean. Solder flows across and around a clean surface much easier and uniformly than a dirty, especially a greasy or oily surface. Flux is good for this. It's a mild acid and destroys any grease, oils and debris on the surface of the pieces to be soldered together as it is heated up. The flux in most good quality solder cores is normally sufficient for the job but if in doubt get a small bottle of flux and cover anything you're about to tin with a thin coat of flux before trying to tin it. Allow the molten solder to heat up the flux as the solder is applied rather than heat up the flux then apply the solder.
"The bigger the blob the better the job" is a fallacy: use just enough solder to cover all the surface of the two pieces you're soldering together. When tinning a multi-strand wire, for example, you should still be able to make out the individual outer strands while leaving no gaps between them.
Shiney solder is good, dull solder is bad (dull = brittle metal otherwise known as a dry joint) If the solder is dull reheat the joint and allow to cool naturally.
Never try to speed up the cooling time of solder. Almost a guaranteed bad joint every time. The crystaline lattice that gives the joint its strength forms as it cools. Cool it too fast and the lattice won't form properly. It may look good but it won't be.
It's not the pieces you're trying to solder together that you're trying to heat, it's the solder. Unfortunately a good portion of the time you have to heat up the pieces in order to heat up and melt the solder but the item acts as a heat sink drawing the heat energy away from where you need it to get to. Don't be afraid to use a too high wattage soldering iron or blow torch (within reason) Always avoid a too low wattage iron. 15-25w irons are for small connectors and electronics. 30-50w for electrical work, 50W+ for large gauge wires/connectors and small diameter piping.
For best heat transfer results the soldering iron tip needs to have a coating of solder on it as well as the pieces to be soldered. Solder is an extremely efficient heat conductor and helps emormously with transfering heat energy from the iron tip to the joint. It does however, invariably mean leaving solder where you don't want it to be - like the outside surface of EC3 & EC5 bullets. If this is the case use some other means such as the blow torch attachment of a gas soldering iron to apply indirect heat to the bullet, and the solder inside it, rather than a conventional soldering iron. If you have to use a soldering iron take off any excess solder from the outside of the bullet with wicking braid or, as a last resort, a solder sucker.
I use that but only for EC3's and it struggled a little. Fine for tinning and flowing solder in to the cup and a blow torch is better to solder the cable to the connector. Oh and a mini bench vice (metal) is a must unless you want to burn your fingers and the bench . Personally I use a small pair of vice grips (locking ones).
I have an older version of one of these: The Jigs Up
Bought it through a UK model shop - think it may have been BRC Hobbies but can't remember... Helps with all connectors and doesnt melt or burn when using a blowtorch - although granted it is like a huge heatsink but it works.
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