What lipo for dynatron

[Sburv]

What lipo for dynatron

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1363621519.536451.jpg

I use 2x 2s 3650mah Opti's on mine.

Plenty of power and lasts forever. If this setup won't turn the engine over then you have got a problem.

[panosg]

Makita 18v battery here.
Simple to convert, powerful, battery lasts for ever and no more switch problems I was getting with the 6s set up.

[Rotorhead]

The point i was making was generalised for all models , bang your 6S monster on a hydo locked 55 and see what that costs to fix ;-)

Simple answer to that, listen to what your engine is telling you when you're trying to start it, you should know it's going to eventually hydrolock long before it does, and simply remove the glow plug and turn it over a few times.

[jwatts007]

4 cell 2600 thunder power battery...starts the 120s easily....

[Delarado]

Simple answer to that, listen to what your engine is telling you when you're trying to start it, you should know it's going to eventually hydrolock long before it does, and simply remove the glow plug and turn it over a few times.

Or just don't over power your starter in the first place?

Sound advice from good experience is being offered here, you don't have to "fight your corner"; you like 6s (I guess?) Rachel says its too much. I and many others agree.

Lets not argue the toss

I personally wouldnt know what to listen for, my engine has hydrolocked a couple of times, sometimes without warning due to sticky regulators. I havent broken anything yet on 4s, and its never failed to start my engine either.

However, I have ended up having a hard time three times when I used to run on 6s, all because the button welded together. Once I was trying to run the engine with the heli partially on its side to get excess fuel out of the engine and into the pipe, the button welded shut and I dropped the bloody thing, then I Was stuck with a heli attached to a fully charged 6s starter going at full pelt with no way to switch the starter off.

For that incident solely I personally will never put 6s on it again, never had a problem since switching to 4s.

[jwatts007]

Or just don't over power your starter in the first place?

Sound advice from good experience is being offered here, you don't have to "fight your corner"; you like 6s (I guess?) Rachel says its too much. I and many others agree.

Lets not argue the toss

I personally wouldnt know what to listen for, my engine has hydrolocked a couple of times, sometimes without warning due to sticky regulators. I havent broken anything yet on 4s, and its never failed to start my engine either.

However, I have ended up having a hard time three times when I used to run on 6s, all because the button welded together. Once I was trying to run the engine with the heli partially on its side to get excess fuel out of the engine and into the pipe, the button welded shut and I dropped the bloody thing, then I Was stuck with a heli attached to a fully charged 6s starter going at full pelt with no way to switch the starter off.

For that incident solely I personally will never put 6s on it again, never had a problem since switching to 4s.

Same thing happened to me using a 6cell...switch welded together heli started everything was in a state of chaos...then the starter shaft fell out and landed on my radio smashing the scroller...so no radio for 2 weeks...

[Rotorhead]

I'm no newbie to this hobby, there is nothing wrong with 6S on a dynatron and I've never bent a con rod ever, if you can't recognise when a motor is starting to flood then that is a whole other problem and you shouldn't be blaming the starter.

[Delarado]

I'm no newbie to this hobby, there is nothing wrong with 6S on a dynatron and I've never bent a con rod ever, if you can't recognise when a motor is starting to flood then that is a whole other problem and you shouldn't be blaming the starter.

What about buttons welding shut?

I'm not blaming the starter for my engine hypothetically flooding, I'm saying 6s isn't needed. Of all the people that I've spoken to that have used 6s, most have said its not needed, and nearly as many as that have reported problems with the button welding itself shut etc.

Why crack a nut with a sledgehammer?

I never said you were new to the hobby, but my experience (And many others) goes like this:

Dynotron on 6s:
- starts anything
-button can weld shut, potentially becoming a hazard; as it has done to me and many others on multiple occasions
-potential engine damage to hydrolocked engine, although I personally have never had this and neither have you.

Dynotron on 4s:
-Starts anything
-no button welding shut in 6 months of usage
-less potential for damage on a hydrolocked engine

You can fly the 6s flag all you want mate, it doesnt bother me; I know what I'm sticking with though; and what I'd recommend to other people, and also what i'd consider to be a poor recommendation to other people

[rachel]

I'm no newbie to this hobby, there is nothing wrong with 6S on a dynatron and I've never bent a con rod ever, if you can't recognise when a motor is starting to flood then that is a whole other problem and you shouldn't be blaming the starter.

being as you bought it back up , again ..... :-@)
there are a lot of presurised fuel system motors out there , forget to clamp the fuel line off for just a second ,and bang, instant flooded motor , without turning it over ,.....
just saying , it can be done.

[Rotorhead]

What about buttons welding shut?

I'm not blaming the starter for my engine hypothetically flooding, I'm saying 6s isn't needed. Of all the people that I've spoken to that have used 6s, most have said its not needed, and nearly as many as that have reported problems with the button welding itself shut etc.

So you just put a 6S on without thinking about a secondary switch? Sulivan even do a HV switch, but if you follow a good start up routine and do a proper preflight then it will never happen.

Why crack a nut with a sledgehammer?

If you've got a sledgehammer.....

I never said you were new to the hobby, but my experience (And many others) goes like this:

Dynotron on 6s:
- starts anything
-button can weld shut, potentially becoming a hazard; as it has done to me and many others on multiple occasions
-potential engine damage to hydrolocked engine, although I personally have never had this and neither have you.

If you're getting a hydrolocked engine then it's because you've done something wrong in your preflight, ie not checked the engine is free to turn by turning the starter shaft by hand and seeing if it has some unexpected extra compression before hitting the trigger, if so, remove plug and turn it over with the fuel clamp in place and try again.

A good preflight check will stop this from ever happening.

[Rotorhead]

being as you bought it back up , again ..... :-@)
there are a lot of presurised fuel system motors out there , forget to clamp the fuel line off for just a second ,and bang, instant flooded motor , without turning it over ,.....
just saying , it can be done.

I run a pumped OS91, and that has never ever happened, infact if anything clamping it off will help it clear any fuel out since it's not being fed from the tank.

[Jamin_00]

I used 6s on mine and it was overkill tbh. Only cos I had a knackered 6s pack lying around.

Never caused any issues iirc but it was overkill

[Rotorhead]

Depends on the circumstances, if it's being a stubborn motor, or its very cold and hasn't run yet that day 6S can just be enough to get it going, and on top of that when it's cold I'd rather use 6S than 5 since the pack will not struggle as much in the cold when current is being drawn from it, I guess it depends on what you consider flying weather and what "cold" means to you, last time we had a lot of snow our way and it reached -9 it was still "flying weather" as far as I was concerned

[KevDavies]

children stop arguing or ill turn this car around and we wont go to Wallyworld

[jwatts007]

i think it is an old wives tale damaging the engine and bending conrods because of a hydrolock...I just keep banging the starter until it turns it over and starts.....