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What am I doing wrong? :/

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  • What am I doing wrong? :/

    Hello

    I got a 450 pro DFC last week as part of a swap. It flew great for about 10 flights and then I decided to practice some autos (never tried them before intentionally). Quite a few tipovers later and a blade grip comes flying off.

    I thought this was down to either a lack of threadlock on the feathering shaft bolts (unlikely as the rest of the heli seemed built to a high standard by its previous owner) or due to all the blade strikes doing the autos.

    £40 later and I have fixed it all up again... making sure to use new feathering shaft bolts and threadlock them properly. I manage 6 flights yesterday at Twickenham and then today after two flights while doing piroflips, exactly the same thing happens!!

    I have got no idea why it would do this? I don't want to spend another £40 fixing it to have it happen again - especially while indoors!.

    thanks

    Stanley
    Trex 700n DFC - YS120, Spartan Vortex
    Gaui X5 - Spartan Vortex







  • #2
    did you clean the feathering shaft before you installed it?

    sometimes thers cutting lube makes its way into the threads, makes threadlock not stick. I always bathe mine in alcohol and stick a pipe cleaner or similar in there to clean it out before installing.

    You may have something else a little bent thats making it work loose.

    Also, do autos on your 600 - its a million times easier. I know its hard because its more expensive etc, but 450s barely auto at all, they are really tricky to do it on!
    NONE OF THE BELOW HELI'S ARE OWNED BY ME ANY MORE
    TT Raptor G4 + Vbar
    | MCPX V1 + HP05 Brushless & All the upgrades | 130x Stock | Henseleit TDR 2013 +Vbar | 450L DOMINATOR 6S + Mini Kbar | Logo 550SX +Vbar Mini
    Proud wearer of the EGS award!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Delarado View Post
      did you clean the feathering shaft before you installed it?

      sometimes thers cutting lube makes its way into the threads, makes threadlock not stick. I always bathe mine in alcohol and stick a pipe cleaner or similar in there to clean it out before installing.

      You may have something else a little bent thats making it work loose.

      Also, do autos on your 600 - its a million times easier. I know its hard because its more expensive etc, but 450s barely auto at all, they are really tricky to do it on!
      No I didn't - hopefully that is what it is I might try mixing red and blue like I do with the 600.

      I tried some autos on the 600 today too - managed 4 fine but didnt flare enough on the 5th and stripped the TT gears!
      Trex 700n DFC - YS120, Spartan Vortex
      Gaui X5 - Spartan Vortex






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      • #4
        oh no! Not good OH well youll get used to it.

        I only ever use blue on my helis and never had an issue with feathering shaft.
        NONE OF THE BELOW HELI'S ARE OWNED BY ME ANY MORE
        TT Raptor G4 + Vbar
        | MCPX V1 + HP05 Brushless & All the upgrades | 130x Stock | Henseleit TDR 2013 +Vbar | 450L DOMINATOR 6S + Mini Kbar | Logo 550SX +Vbar Mini
        Proud wearer of the EGS award!

        Comment


        • #5
          As a preflight I always give the blade grips a tug to see if they are loose, as I suffered from this in the past. The feathering shaft is notorious for coming undone due to unclean threads. As for autoing a 450, I think they are great to learn on because if you bodge it a bit the heli bounces 9 times out of ten and you can just pick it up and fly again. Every time I have bodged an auto on my 600 I have had to do some repairs.
          Fusion 50 FBL, vBar, 9180/8s, HeliJive, Compass 6HV head, Quantum 4135, 12s, Emcotec SPS
          Trex 450 pro DS95/i, Ice Lite 50, 6s, Beastx
          Mini Protos Stretch DS95/i, Ice Lite 50, mini vbar,
          DX8, Phoenix

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