I am terrible on Phoenix!

[Gecko501]

I got my mcpx and phoenix at the start of the year as a total noob but never really got on with Phoenix as preferred to use my mcpx as a real life sim. Fast forward to today and I have a 130x and can comfortably hover in all upright directions and complete messy figure 8's.

Jumped onto a online session last night with some of you guys and was not able to hold a steady hover or fly a single circuit!

I am convinced it's my Phoenix/dx6i settings! (and my over corrections)

So do you guys have modes on your TX just for the sim and how are they different to your actual flying curves and settings? How many changes to these settings are done on Phoenix settings.

Feel like I need to nail my settings first before using Phoenix again.

[SamS]

You don't adjust the settings on your tx. You do it on this sim per heli, so if its too responsive lower the dual rates.

If you havn't properly used Phoenix before (like you havn't) then it'll take a bit of time to get used to, what with the perspectives 'n' that.

[mattscupoftea]

Firstly, I popped into a phoenix session last night and the wind was turned right up - if you didn't have sound turned on, you might not have noticed it apart from going off course a lot. . . ie not be able to hold a steady hover or fly a circuit(!)

It could also be your dx6i settings though, yes.

Here's a nice little walkthrough for setting up dx6i with phoenix.

http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/phoeni...phoenix-2.html

Everything should work after this. . .

[mattscupoftea]

Oh, and beware that the mcpx in the sim flies like a spanner.

[M0TFT]

I know I'm only a beginner too, I use the same settings that I use with my 130x, and kind of fly (hovering and slow hover taxi type stuff) with most heli's on Phoenix, but the bigger stuff does seem to get away rather fast. Another note, I do find judgeing if the on screen heli is drifting slowly towards or away from me (I do struggle with this slightly in real flight too...).

[mattscupoftea]

Two top tips for you MOTFT. . .

1) - From Vikki - Use the shift view rather than normal view. When practicing hovers, it's slightly easier to see what's happening with shift view - the world stays a bit more still more of the time. You can set how quickly the computer follows the model in the program settings>(physics or display, I forget). This won't make it much easier to see when the model is travelling away/towards you, but side to side much easier. Bit more like real life. I guess you just get used to backwards/forwards movement with experience. . .

2) The bigger stuff has a bit more power, but if you pick the right one, it's actually slower. I believe the Compass Knight .50 is a good place to start for hovers. Although it's big, it's not too powerful, so it doesn't 'squirrel' away from you too quickly. Try also going into the model controls (Model>edit>detailed) and upping the expo a little if need be, although I would say that the model as-is should be pretty controllable as is, and in fact rather than add expo a learner should learn the physical subtleties of close fine control of hover. I have found that once hovering 'clicks', (which takes different people different amounts of time) you hardly feel like you are moving the sticks at times.

3) My fave tip from helping someone hovering last night - try to force yourself to limit the right stick (in mode 2) - elevator and aileron - inputs to one corrective movement every second, perhaps even one per 2 seconds. Left stick (rudder, pitch) can be constantly adjusted, to keep the tail where it should be.
It makes a hell of a difference to your flying style, as rather than spending the whole time wriggling the sticks trying to find level, you spend far more useful time analysing the movement and orientation of the heli, and then when you do make corrections, they are far more useful ones. You also realise just how slow the heli tends to drift if not interfered with, and finally you look like you're a smooth, calm pilot, which people like. . . Try it!

Hope that helps .. .

[cjcj1949]

Sorry about the wind, I often have to say that.

[MarkG_R1]

I need to stop messing around and tidy up my circuits etc

[rudi]

When you calibrate your transmitter with Phoenix, make sure all dual rates are set to 100% (and Expo 0%, although Expo probably isn't as important). You want the transmitter to send a full -100% to +100% to Phoenix so maximum resolution is available.

Once you have calibrated, you can then reduce sensitivity on the transmitter using DR and Expo just as you would a real model.