T-Rex 500 Info

[Tim Procter]

don't confuse modding with it needs done to fit. it's done to better performance.

Now I'm confused..

[raptorheli2]

i wanted to get the weight higher up so i modded my canopy mount to allow it but i know fact the following all fit and fly fine with NO mods.

revo 2100, 2200, 3200, 4200 and flightpower 2500.

i also know that revo 5s 3200 and 4200 also fits nicely.

cheers

[LipolyGone]

Ok mixed bag of flying as I am an improving flier.
I want to be able to do flips, loops, rolls, & inverted.
I fly big style stall turns with lots of climbing & diving moves like chandells etc.
Not into out & out stick banging yet or chaos moves.
Flight times would be nice if they were around 8 mins.
The 500 looks to be the ideal heli for me at this moment in time I simply can not wait for the Atom to apear because I will have lost out many months.
The reason I want a 500 is because I am always on my own flying & I dont trust myself flying a large 50 size electric or a 50 IC.
I know It's nearly as risky flying a 500 size electric but feel if the worst was to happen I would hopefully survive a 500 if it hit me.
Oh & my 450 is just a bit to small to see when at a senceable height for learning new moves.
Martin

i have flown a lot of packs (revs and FP) and none need the heli modded to accept them, don't confuse modding with it needs done to fit. it's done to better performance.

there is no need for confusion, i can recommend a pack right now to you easily if you tell me-

1.what type of flying do you want
2.how long a flight time do you want.


cheers

[raptorheli2]

ok then, i would go for the 5s 4200 option if you want to get revo packs (3s and 2s and a harness to charge them) with a 15t pinion. FP also make a 3300 we know fits as JK uses it and he gets 7 mins out of that setup.

cheers

[Ashley Davis]

I agree 5S 4200 would give a nice long flight with all the power you need for that kind of flying and personally I think they are the best fitting packs of the lot so far.

[barney]

Canopy mod and reasons...

The reason is to both improve space up front and also increase space higher up on the the upper tray to allow the batteries to sit both higher and further back to get optimium C&G. It makes battery changes, placement a lot easier too.

OK the thoery/reasons for it. A helicopter rotates around the main rotor hub..i.e. the spindle..NOT THE FUZZ CENTRE LINE..

The further away the weight from this point the more force is required to move it i.e. more cyclic is required. There is a limit to how much cyclic can be achievied without excessive drag.

ALSO VERY IMPORTANTLY..The further away the weight becomes the more difficult it becomes to overcome the INERTIA as it is acting as a pendulum so needs an improportionial amount of force to move it around making the model feel sluggish.

This is why shifting the weight only a small distance can actually give a very dramatic improvement in cyclic performance.

Benifits.

This allows us to either trade cyclic pitch for even faster cyclic for the same input %... or used to help imrprove duration as the model now requires less input to match it's previous roll/flip rate..

Those of you with some plank experience will better understand the inertia side of things above.. as it's of huge benfit for freestyle flying.

For example two identical wings, same travels etc etc. One wing has heavy tips, the other light tips...Which one would you choose to do hesitation rolls with?

OK Canopy MOD..you move the canopy standoffs forward and up in the frames by 1/2"..

You then make a 1/16th ply plate and sand so it slips tightly into the canopy slot..so it locates the canopy as before but forward 1/2".

I went a little further by adding a 3mm spacer.. piece of lightply to lift the front ply mounting point and made a 3 ply sandwich..so there is a slot to locate the canopy into as before. Doing it this way requires no permanent alterations except for the two small locating holes in the frames for the canopy posts.

I hope this helps you better understand..cheers Brian

[Leebert]

I hope to use the 2100 Revos that I have for the 450 and Zagi. Will I be pushing them too far? I guess I am at a similar level to Slopes with stall turns, rolls and loops being the general order of the day but am not as bothered with the flight duration as I understand that 2100mAh is on the lower end of the scale.
I am looking to run Hitec 5245MG on the cyclic and 401 / 9527 on the tail.
Thanks,

[Ashley Davis]

Lee,

It will work just don't get too collective punch happy as those packs are both small and only 18C rated, the 500 will be pushing them quite hard.
Once this weather clears I'll do a vid on 2100s so you can see how it goes, with a datalog.

[Leebert]

Canopy mod and reasons...

The reason is to both improve space up front and also increase space higher up on the the upper tray to allow the batteries to sit both higher and further back to get optimium C&G. It makes battery changes, placement a lot easier too.

OK the thoery/reasons for it. A helicopter rotates around the main rotor hub..i.e. the spindle..NOT THE FUZZ CENTRE LINE..

The further away the weight from this point the more force is required to move it i.e. more cyclic is required. There is a limit to how much cyclic can be achievied without excessive drag.

ALSO VERY IMPORTANTLY..The further away the weight becomes the more difficult it becomes to overcome the INERTIA as it is acting as a pendulum so needs an improportionial amount of force to move it around making the model feel sluggish.

This is why shifting the weight only a small distance can actually give a very dramatic improvement in cyclic performance.

Benifits.

This allows us to either trade cyclic pitch for even faster cyclic for the same input %... or used to help imrprove duration as the model now requires less input to match it's previous roll/flip rate..

Those of you with some plank experience will better understand the inertia side of things above.. as it's of huge benfit for freestyle flying.

For example two identical wings, same travels etc etc. One wing has heavy tips, the other light tips...Which one would you choose to do hesitation rolls with?

OK Canopy MOD..you move the canopy standoffs forward and up in the frames by 1/2"..

You then make a 1/16th ply plate and sand so it slips tightly into the canopy slot..so it locates the canopy as before but forward 1/2".

I went a little further by adding a 3mm spacer.. piece of lightply to lift the front ply mounting point and made a 3 ply sandwich..so there is a slot to locate the canopy into as before. Doing it this way requires no permanent alterations except for the two small locating holes in the frames for the canopy posts.

I hope this helps you better understand..cheers Brian

Thanks Barney. Can you post photos please?

[raptorheli2]

guys everything me/barney have discussed about modding canopy was posted a few pages back.

cheers

[Ashley Davis]

lol, this thread is 97 pages long now........bit of a long read. If you don't mind Paul/Barney I'll start nicking bits and pieces from the thread and stick them in the blog, so it's easy to find the important bits of info quickly.

[raptorheli2]

ash, please do so because getting all the facts we have gathered is a nightmare.

if you want better pics let me know as the ones i have here are compressed to suit the restrictions.

cheers

[Stuart]

lol, this thread is 97 pages long now........bit of a long read. If you don't mind Paul/Barney I'll start nicking bits and pieces from the thread and stick them in the blog, so it's easy to find the important bits of info quickly.

Ash do me a favour please refer to the thread within your blog, I suspect you would anyways just thought I'd ask. Thanks in advance.

[barney]

Yes sure...this is a fast moving thread..great idea if you could do a summary and collate the important stuff as it will save a lot or repatition..Maybe Trex 500 Knowledge Part 2 or something...LOL

[barney]

Leebert see my posts 944/945 look at the lower canopy slot..Nothing fancy 5 mins with Superglue. 1/16th ply and a strip of 3mm lightply.

It just slots into the originial mounting and can be removed easily. The extension forward is 1/2" the same as I moved the canopy posts forward and up slightly maybe 1.5-2mm on the frames. I'll see if I can grap a pic..