Rewiring and sleeving my logo

[nitros]

What you guy think?

Ps. It is very easy to do, which I didn't expected ImageUploadedByTapatalk1341579730.036121.jpg

[Jez N]

Looks nice and you can run the ESC/BEC wires along the frame by the motor plate and through the gaps next to the aileron and pitch servos. Theres enough room to secure with zip ties between the motor and the motor mounting plate.

the tricky part is making it all look neat at the back without cutting the servo wires down.

[nitros]

I just done one servo wire ImageUploadedByTapatalk1341581238.496976.jpg

[matt t]

If your struggling with the back here's a picture of mine, used some o rings to keep them together

[p4ddy]

If it's done well it can look real clean & tidy, however i find you cannot move the wires so easy in the sleaving & i can place the wires far easier when left as they are & just cable tie them as neat as possible. I look foward to seeing them when finished

[pk-surfing]

For 'matt t'.... using O rings what a great idea

[p4ddy]

For 'matt t'.... using O rings what a great idea

Looks nice doesn't it

[LaurenceGough]

Personally I like to leave the leads without any kind of brace or covering within at least 5cm or so of flybarless or gyro sensors. Otherwise vibrations can/will be transferred and sometimes I've even seen sensors moved lopsided because of the tension.

The only wire I braid is the anti static wire in a metal cage braid to avoid any interference.

[t-rex pedro]

@matt t - Can you wire mine like yours?! Super neat dude!

[danch]

If your struggling with the back here's a picture of mine, used some o rings to keep them together

That's nice & neat

[nitros]

Is not net as expected but if you consider that is a full rx not too badImageUploadedByTapatalk1341587698.543473.jpg

[dumb thumb it]

Personally I like to leave the leads without any kind of brace or covering within at least 5cm or so of flybarless or gyro sensors. Otherwise vibrations can/will be transferred and sometimes I've even seen sensors moved lopsided because of the tension.

The only wire I braid is the anti static wire in a metal cage braid to avoid any interference.

Hi

Matt copied my wiring lol , laurence you can not wire to save your to save life you wires hanging down near your main gear and glue frames together after a crash!!!. IMO you can't build at all
You can fly very very well but you are no builder and never will be IMO.

[LaurenceGough]

Hi

Matt copied my wiring lol , laurence you can not wire to save you to save your life you wires hanging down near your main gear and glue frames together after a crash!!!. IMO you can't build at all
You can fly very very well but you are no builder and never will be IMO.

Glued frame? Please do let me know which one that is as I'd like to know! Never had a wire failure ever either, it's far more likely to cut a wire by cable ties or people being anal about drilling holes in the frame or otherwise stressing the cables and weakening the frame. I've also solved a fair share of problems with helis which had the wires too tight into the gyro/fbl sensors. Like I would have wires hanging down near the main gear...

I've always worked fully on my helis and have NEVER had a mechanical failure the exceptions would be with the Trex 450 feathering shafts working loose due to some kind of crazy oil anti rust additive they put in the packet, also my Logo 600 battery slid out once during an aggressive flight, partly my fault for not doing the straps tight enough and 2nd there are no good ways of holding the lipos in the Logo series.

If you want to see a neat set-up don't look at my helis, but a working one day in day out, then look. I've also built and set-up helis for many who are very happy.


Unless this is sarcasm - can't tell by text...

[Andy from Sandy]

The only wire I braid is the anti static wire in a metal cage braid to avoid any interference.

This makes no sense to me. The whole idea is to pick up the interference that is static and then take it to ground potential to eliminate it.

[LaurenceGough]

This makes no sense to me. The whole idea is to pick up the interference that is static and then take it to ground potential to eliminate it.

You're most likely right as there should be no spikes running through this wire but to be on the safe side as it runs very close to other wires, I don't know how much static constantly trickles down it from the tail system even still that is most likely low enough not to be a problem.

Either way it suits my heli layout as it puts a nice curve into the wire.