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Raptor Thunder Tiger 90 - Need Advice on Version & Links

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  • Raptor Thunder Tiger 90 - Need Advice on Version & Links

    Hi Guys,

    Looking for advice on my new/used (just recently bought) Raptor Thunder Tiger 90, with Kasama Head upgrade, as I am going thru the manual and checking the links for how close they are to the manufacture settings. Trying to learn about this Raptor why I am doing this by the way.

    A problem I found is with the pushrod lengths for the Rotor Head, the links that attach to the Bell-Hiller mixing arm. Now the manual I have is what was given when I bought this and is a downloaded copy not original. Now my doubts are is this the right manual I have that he gave me? Well this manual says it is for Raptor SE 90 class Thunder Tiger, so first question is, what are the differences, how many versions are there? How do I know if I have an SE version or not?

    Anywho back to the question I have, the link rod description in the manual says Link Rod 2.3x95mm, took off the links on mine and measured them and behold, they are only 85mm long, also on top of that one of the rods has a different sized ball link on it, it is shorter than the others, that is another issue.

    Just asking if anyone knows if I might have the wrong version manual, if there is another one, or this last person who had it thought the links were close enough in length. The total length with ball links put on should be a total of 113.5mm, according to my SE version manuyal. What do I do now, search for links at 95mm or ? Anyone have advice on this?
    I will keep trying it until I get it right!
    Thunder Tiger 90 - (Pride & Joy)
    Hirobo Pantera 50 (a.k.a. try everything I learn on Phoenix)
    Hirobo Shuttle Z + (Oldie but Goodie)

  • #2
    If the Raptor has a Kasama head on it, I doubt very much the links would be the same?

    At mid-stick, how many degrees pitch are you getting?
    x 3

    Comment


    • #3
      Well that's one of the problems, it is about 3-4 but now don't know what to check on proper length, should be 0 right? someone did some changes on this, (Last owner) and the links are different lengths, that is why trying to go thru manual and check settings like that. At least I would have a starting point. When you upgrade the head like that, this case the Kasama, is this common to go 10mm shorter or having to make that much of a change? Again I am learning this one, so trying to follow the book and ask questions.
      I will keep trying it until I get it right!
      Thunder Tiger 90 - (Pride & Joy)
      Hirobo Pantera 50 (a.k.a. try everything I learn on Phoenix)
      Hirobo Shuttle Z + (Oldie but Goodie)

      Comment


      • #4
        Trouble here is you have an upgraded head so link lengths will be different. I have built many helis and although I use the lengths given as a starting point you always find they need tweeking to get the linkage geometry correct.

        The way I setup a heli is by making sure that in 3D mode the swashplate is at the middle of travel then make sure all levers are level next then lastly the blades are at zero pitch. I find this is the best way to do it.

        If you still want to know which version you have post up a few pics and I'm sure we will be able to tell you.
        The man that has never crashed a heli has never flown a heli.


        Lewis McIntosh

        Comment


        • #5
          Raptor SE..3D..or the raptor 60 are all the same, the servo horns lenths and the hole the ball is in will be the thing that changes, I am not familiar with the head you have but I suspect it would change things.....
          Heli central...Basildon RC helis...strictly helis only...




          Comment


          • #6
            Has your rappy 90 got plastic frames with an alloy tail boom as with the standard 90 or has it got carbon fibre frames with carbon fibre tail boom as in the 90se 3d
            Raptor 50 v2
            Raptor 50 titan se
            Raptor X50n to go in sea king fuz
            Raptor 90
            dsx9 mk2
            600 size Sea king being built
            Bo-105 in red bull colours waitng to be built

            Comment


            • #7
              rappy 60 silver ali frames
              90 gun ali frames in gun metal greyish
              import rappy 90 some have ali frames in black
              90se carbon frames with silver ali braces and carbon boom

              quick uk rappy/v-max carbon frames with eccpm control system with blue shiney metal bits (may come in other shiney colours)


              as already said the link lengths may change due to the after market head
              if it has an underslung flybar the link lengths will not be the same as a std rappy head

              the 60/90/90se manuals will give the link lengths you need for a std rappy head

              the 90se and upgrade metal heads use the same link lengths as the plastic 60/90 head
              Hirobo Turbulence D3
              a bunch of bls servo's and a 701 gyro
              Powered by an OS91 hz and a MP2
              Winner of the LHC Scale Cup 2011

              1/4 scale Vario Bell 47 G3
              1/3 scale Vario R22
              2012 LHC Scale Cup Judge
              member of save the flybar foundation
              www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org
              sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for all the replies on this, have taken some photos so everyone can see what I am working with and maybe can tell actually what version this is I am working with.


                Maybe the route to go is what GIR8 suggested on how he starts the alignment and setup,
                The way I setup a heli is by making sure that in 3D mode the swashplate is at the middle of travel then make sure all levers are level next then lastly the blades are at zero pitch. I find this is the best way to do it.


                This sounds like the logical way to go if I can't use the standard settings, because the difference here is 10mm between the manual stating 95mm for link rod length, compared to what is on this heli at 85mm length. Let me know your thoughts/opinions more advice after having a look at the photos I've taken. Thanks again for the help, really appreciate the knowledge out there.


                Raptor 90 Photo 1.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 1a.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 1.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 4c.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 4a.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 1b.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 5a.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 6.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 5.jpgRaptor 90 Photo 2.jpg
                I will keep trying it until I get it right!
                Thunder Tiger 90 - (Pride & Joy)
                Hirobo Pantera 50 (a.k.a. try everything I learn on Phoenix)
                Hirobo Shuttle Z + (Oldie but Goodie)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the reply Lewis, have taken some photos so everyone can see what I am working with and maybe can tell actually what version this is I am working with.

                  Have a question to ask on best procedure when you can't get the servo centered when trying to do the setup, how do you adjust the servo properly, or do you adjust the link to compensate, what is the best way?

                  Last edited by bstafford; 09-06-2012, 12:06 PM.
                  I will keep trying it until I get it right!
                  Thunder Tiger 90 - (Pride & Joy)
                  Hirobo Pantera 50 (a.k.a. try everything I learn on Phoenix)
                  Hirobo Shuttle Z + (Oldie but Goodie)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    by the looks of the pictures that started life as a std 90 and then had a set of quick uk carbon frames and braces all the blue metal parts look like quick uk parts


                    to set the head up i would select idle up in the tx (in my futaba tx i would use idle up 3)
                    with a straight line pitch curve set mid stick to zero deg pitch
                    set high to + 10 to 13 deg pitch
                    set low to - 10 to 13 deg pitch
                    try to get the servo travel equal in postive and negative pitch
                    the std raptor 60/90 rod lengths will not work with that head
                    Hirobo Turbulence D3
                    a bunch of bls servo's and a 701 gyro
                    Powered by an OS91 hz and a MP2
                    Winner of the LHC Scale Cup 2011

                    1/4 scale Vario Bell 47 G3
                    1/3 scale Vario R22
                    2012 LHC Scale Cup Judge
                    member of save the flybar foundation
                    www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      No Probs matey any more questions just ask I'm always willing to help.

                      I'd say its a standard raptor with loads of Quick UK parts too usually all the blue bits are quick UK parts.
                      The man that has never crashed a heli has never flown a heli.


                      Lewis McIntosh

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi Electric,

                        I feel that you are correct on what you say regards to the upgrade, if only could verify from previous owner, but can't find him. Regardless and now to take action and get this thing aligned properly and with your advice and others I am sure I can do it fine.

                        Regards to radio, I have a Futaba 7C, you believe that is better than using FlySky 9ch, but also was still trying to find the proper method of centering the servo, when putting on the horn it won't center properly and needs to be offset either by link or radio adjustment. I don't know which way to do this, so can you advice me the proper way for that?
                        I will keep trying it until I get it right!
                        Thunder Tiger 90 - (Pride & Joy)
                        Hirobo Pantera 50 (a.k.a. try everything I learn on Phoenix)
                        Hirobo Shuttle Z + (Oldie but Goodie)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well firstly you may need some new servos arms or discs if the originals have been cut.

                          If your not doing 3D with it then just use the standard cross type arms.

                          How you get them alinged is connect the servo to the correct channel and switch all your gear on then take the servo arm and place it on the servo output. Try all 4 positions and then take the one thats nearest square to the servo and thats the one you use. You can use a little subtrim to get it just right but don't use a lot.
                          The man that has never crashed a heli has never flown a heli.


                          Lewis McIntosh

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hi, Have started on that method and have tried a couple other horns, then going into the subtrim to try and adjust as you say. This servo is the aileron servo that is off a little from center and needs the adjustment.

                            Does this mean by what your saying that you should not adjust the link length to try and get it perfect if there is not enough subtrim or different horn to get it perfect?

                            I will throw another servo in there and see if it centers any better. What about adjustment of the endpoints a little, will this work to do the job?
                            I will keep trying it until I get it right!
                            Thunder Tiger 90 - (Pride & Joy)
                            Hirobo Pantera 50 (a.k.a. try everything I learn on Phoenix)
                            Hirobo Shuttle Z + (Oldie but Goodie)

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              When setting up a heli the control rods should all be the same length. It should be possible to get the servo arm square by turning it on the output.

                              The other option although it would be a bit tricky but not overly so is to use discs and drill them out to suit.

                              The endpoint adjustment is only for the endpoints which should be set the same both directions unless its on the pitch servo then you may need to set it differently but if you use my method then it should remain the same both ways.
                              The man that has never crashed a heli has never flown a heli.


                              Lewis McIntosh

                              Comment

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