when your servo wires are way too long, do you shorten them coil them or fold them up neatly to keep the wiring tidy.
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shortening servo wires
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I usually coil them up, but in my last model I used some of the braiding which means you can easily gather up excess servo leads neatly.

If its a tail servo lead, coiling it around a small diameter rod can be a great way of reducing stress on the wires from vibes whilst also dealing with the excess wires.
Cheers,
Simon
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Trex 700N & E
Futaba 18mz and some planks !!
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I opt for just folding them neating and then braiding the servo leads --- I tend to braid all leads including the gyro's... added protection, looks neat and professional.
DSCF0840 (Custom).JPGDSCF0841 (Custom).JPGDSCF0849 (Custom).JPGDSCF0862 (Custom).JPG
...and i quite enjoy doing it too. Because of how i wanted the tail servo positioned, That white strap you can see is actually a large piece of electrical heat shrink... Helps hold the wire in place.
If however, the servo leads are really excessive, then I would buy a quality servo plug and shorten the lead. But only if the lead IS really long. I'd make sure I did a top job too, you don't want any connections failing in flight!
MattLast edited by RcRotaryMadness; 19-10-2011, 11:29 AM.Goblin 500 SportMatt

Owner of One E.G.S.
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Hey MattOriginally posted by Young Gun View PostI opt for just folding them neating and then braiding the servo leads --- I tend to braid all leads including the gyro's... added protection, looks neat and professional.
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...and i quite enjoy doing it too. Because of how i wanted the tail servo positioned, That white strap you can see is actually a large piece of electrical heat shrink... Helps hold the wire in place.
If however, the servo leads are really excessive, then I would buy a quality servo plug and shorten the lead. But only if the lead IS really long. I'd make sure I did a top job too, you don't want any connections failing in flight!
Matt
Were do you get your braid? Looks like good quality stuff.
TomTom
Compass 6hv
Compass 7hv
Scorpion 4525 520kv LE
MKS950/990
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I bought it from an electronics supplier off ebay - Give me a moment and i'll try find the seller for you. The seller was a trade electrical supplier i think - hence why the quality is pretty good!Originally posted by Snaaakeey View PostHey Matt
Were do you get your braid? Looks like good quality stuff.
Tom
MattGoblin 500 SportMatt

Owner of One E.G.S.
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If your going to the trouble of braiding them, which i agree is always a good idea, then is the wires are way to long would it not also be worth trimming the wire, soldering then back together and finishing with shrink before finally braiding??
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Only place I'd use solder on servo wires is where they are attached to the servo circuit board.
You don't want hard points anywhere else between the servo and the plug as vibrations will cause them to fail.
Easier to use crimp tools and replace the plug when you shorten the cable.
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Took a bit of searching but I found it:
The ebay seller is JLB Electricals: Braided cable sleeving, braiding, braid BLACK 4mm x 10M items in JLB Electrical store on eBay!
The perfect size is the 4mm one - You will have to remove the servo plugs to get it on the lead (which is pretty easy once you've done it once or twice) BUT you'll end up with a very nicely braided servo lead as in my pictures.
I also bought some 6mm braiding from SMCS-UK for when wires were too thick/too many for the 4mm stuff, particulary when folding a lot of wire or buncing wires together.
To terminate each end I used Black heat shrink WITH adhesive inside it... this makes sure nothings coming apart in a hurry.
MattGoblin 500 SportMatt

Owner of One E.G.S.
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This is the heatshrink I used from heatshrink Online (on ebay)
Its 6mm dia, or about 10mm when squashed flat and measured. It has a 3:1 shrink ratio (a bit better than the cheaper stuff) - and is adhesive lined so it stays put (great for attaching to those little rubber stumps on the output of servos/gyros)
It has plenty of shrink in it so its easier to use, and can shrink down to a nice, neat finish.
MattGoblin 500 SportMatt

Owner of One E.G.S.
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If you think about it that is the worst place to solder. What's important is to make sure that parts that will vibrate are flexible, and that parts that are not flexible can't vibrate. When you solder a wire to a pcb some of the solder wicks up the wire to make it solid. That is ok, but where the solder ends you have the flexible copper wire and this joint will break very easily with vibration. It is easy to stop by glueing the insulation of the wire to the pcb. Some manufacturers do this, but the operators don't always have enough time or training to put the blob in the right spot.Originally posted by Mark_T View PostOnly place I'd use solder on servo wires is where they are attached to the servo circuit board.
You don't want hard points anywhere else between the servo and the plug as vibrations will cause them to fail.
Easier to use crimp tools and replace the plug when you shorten the cable.Flasher 450 Sport. Assan GA250 with 520 tail servo, MKS DS450 cyclic.
Multiplex Cockpit Tx, DX7, DX6i
Blade 130-X, MSR, MSRX
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That is a very very interesting method, I will note that down for the many many projects I have on the go at the moment!!Originally posted by cjcj1949 View PostIf you think about it that is the worst place to solder. What's important is to make sure that parts that will vibrate are flexible, and that parts that are not flexible can't vibrate. When you solder a wire to a pcb some of the solder wicks up the wire to make it solid. That is ok, but where the solder ends you have the flexible copper wire and this joint will break very easily with vibration. It is easy to stop by glueing the insulation of the wire to the pcb. Some manufacturers do this, but the operators don't always have enough time or training to put the blob in the right spot.
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My point was, either de-solder and properly re-solder the wire at the point designed for the purpose or remake the cable end correctly.Originally posted by cjcj1949 View PostIf you think about it that is the worst place to solder.
Personally I prefer to make new cable ends but I know some prefer to work at the other end of the cable.
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