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Anti rotation pin broke off. How to get remains out of swash?

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  • Anti rotation pin broke off. How to get remains out of swash?

    As title says, the long pin that connects the swashplate and goes through the anti rotation bracket on my trex 500 has snapped off in a crash. This has left the remains of the pin in the swashplate and is flush so no chance of getting a grip on it

    Also it is threadlocked

    Any ideas on how I might get it out?

    Thanks
    Steve
    -------

    Trex 500 ESP
    Trex 450 Pro
    Trex 250
    Blade 130 x (2)
    Brushless nano

  • #2
    Usually a disaster there..not really enough metal and too small for a screw extractor. Cut a small slot with a dremel across cente of the stub and into the swash..vertical rather than horizontal..then flame the threadlock and hope to get lucky with a small flat screwdrive. A new flasher swash isn't that expensive for when you give up..
    PGK
    450Pro Clone fb, Trex500 fbl beastx, Trex 600N fbl beastx, Trex700N fbl msh brain, Spectra G Hanson 26 3dmax fb, Blitz Avro fb...Futaba 8FG

    Comment


    • #3
      Heat will loosen the thread lock, but I think your only option is to drill it out with a very small 1mm drill then work your way up.

      Damage the thread and it's new swash time :-(


      Chris.
      Flying most weekends at CMFA - Trex 700 V-Bar, Trex 600n V-Bar, Trex 250 BeastX

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by pgkevet View Post
        Usually a disaster there..not really enough metal and too small for a screw extractor. Cut a small slot with a dremel across cente of the stub and into the swash..vertical rather than horizontal..then flame the threadlock and hope to get lucky with a small flat screwdrive. A new flasher swash isn't that expensive for when you give up..
        Thanks. Figured as much. Trouble is there are no Flasher 500 swash in stock anywhere and was hoping to avoid buying an align one due to the already very high costs of this crash (already had complete new airframe, blades, shafts, boom, torque tube......).
        Steve
        -------

        Trex 500 ESP
        Trex 450 Pro
        Trex 250
        Blade 130 x (2)
        Brushless nano

        Comment


        • #5
          ..been there. A barebones kit sometimes cheaper..
          If slotting it and have to go deep then repair with slow epoxy instead of threadlock and build up a collar.
          PGK
          450Pro Clone fb, Trex500 fbl beastx, Trex 600N fbl beastx, Trex700N fbl msh brain, Spectra G Hanson 26 3dmax fb, Blitz Avro fb...Futaba 8FG

          Comment


          • #6
            What about trying a small blob of CA glue on the end of an alen key (or similar) wait till it's gone off & give it a twirl. It's a contest then between the thread lock & CA.
            You can teach a man everything. Apart from experience.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by pgkevet View Post
              ..been there. A barebones kit sometimes cheaper.
              Yep, hindsight tells me I should have bought a new kit. Trouble is I keep finding new things to replace during the rebuild, despite giving it a pretty thorough once over before I ordered anything. e.g. last night I discovered I need new bearing blocks, and new OWB!

              That will teach me to ensure that the rudder control arm doesn't come loose in future during flight!
              Steve
              -------

              Trex 500 ESP
              Trex 450 Pro
              Trex 250
              Blade 130 x (2)
              Brushless nano

              Comment


              • #8
                The best thing to do in this case is heat it up really hot and use a drill on it working your way up as posted above, should be able to drop from the threads without causing damage (hopefully!) .

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