Good Li-fe packs/switches?

[J-S-Q]

Can anyone suggest a Li-fe pack for my TRex 700? Ideally I'd like one with dual cables so I can plug both of them straight into my Spektrum RX (or maybe on into the rx and one into the Beast X). I guess the capacity ought to be about 2,500 - 3,000 mAh. And of course it would be preferable if it's nice and cheap! Can't seem to find something that fits this bill.

[J-S-Q]

In fact.... thinking further.... I guess what I actually need is a Li-fe pack with a good sized cable but then I need a switch that has two cables to go to the rx/FBL. What is anyone using as a switch?

[pgkevet]

There might be a good argument for bypassing a switch completely and using a simple connector to the pack and two servo tails: as in a Y-lead with the free end soldered to a plug...as one would with a small leccy heli. Switches are inherently dodgy unless 'fail-on' types. Where I use them on my expensive Spectra G I have dual switches..but the extra wt there hardly notices.

[trillian]

If you use deans on the battery and the switch then you could use a deans to 2X JR cable, it is an Ely.Q part Fast Lad Performance

[J-S-Q]

There might be a good argument for bypassing a switch completely and using a simple connector to the pack and two servo tails: as in a Y-lead with the free end soldered to a plug...as one would with a small leccy heli. Switches are inherently dodgy unless 'fail-on' types. Where I use them on my expensive Spectra G I have dual switches..but the extra wt there hardly notices.

Yes, that is an option but I would prefer a switch if possible due to the speed/convenience of turning it on/off.

With the dual switch setup do you just have two leads from a single battery running in parallel to two sockets in the rx, both with a separate switch (in which case I guess it's pretty safe to jut use a regular switch rather than a 'fail on' switch)? I wouldn't have thought the extra weight of a second switch would be an issue for me because it's a 90 size heli and I'm not exactly a 3D master anyway.

[trillian]

As an experiment I was using two Duralite regulators with switches and each one using its own Lipo. I ran this in the Ely.Q Vision 50 for
a while just to try it. I let the switches hang down just inside the opening at the bottom of the canopy and I could watch the voltspy
to verify both were working. It was probably 200grams or so extra weight but the Vision Ultimate needed extra weight for the
C of G anyway.

In any case it worked very well. Each regulator had a single JR connector going into the RX. This was overkill for the flybarred 50 heli though,
so I now have a single Arizona and 2500mah Relion pack and can fly all day with it. (I have corrected the C of G issue since then but still had to
add about 100 grams in the nose).

Yes, that is an option but I would prefer a switch if possible due to the speed/convenience of turning it on/off.

With the dual switch setup do you just have two leads from a single battery running in parallel to two sockets in the rx, both with a separate switch (in which case I guess it's pretty safe to jut use a regular switch rather than a 'fail on' switch)? I wouldn't have thought the extra weight of a second switch would be an issue for me because it's a 90 size heli and I'm not exactly a 3D master anyway.

[pgkevet]

Yes, that is an option but I would prefer a switch if possible due to the speed/convenience of turning it on/off.

With the dual switch setup do you just have two leads from a single battery running in parallel to two sockets in the rx, both with a separate switch (in which case I guess it's pretty safe to jut use a regular switch rather than a 'fail on' switch)? I wouldn't have thought the extra weight of a second switch would be an issue for me because it's a 90 size heli and I'm not exactly a 3D master anyway.

On my spectra I happen to run dual AA nihm packs which are recharged during flight by the generator and the dual switches also allow me to check individual pack voltages through a single indicator.. then two leads into 2 rx inputs (one from each switch).
If I was using dual switches here then I'd solder tails as above to a LiFe connector and run one each into each switch and from each switch to the rx...keep things simple but use the heavy duty switches. I made up a little bracket with both switches mounted above each other so its easy to see position. Also there i located them near the pullstart since it's possible to get the darned thing running without flight power and be in the mire (although he generator should kick in then)... Belt, braces and holding my pants :-)

[J-S-Q]

As an experiment I was using two Duralite regulators with switches and each one using its own Lipo. I ran this in the Ely.Q Vision 50 for
a while just to try it. I let the switches hang down just inside the opening at the bottom of the canopy and I could watch the voltspy
to verify both were working. It was probably 200grams or so extra weight but the Vision Ultimate needed extra weight for the
C of G anyway.

In any case it worked very well. Each regulator had a single JR connector going into the RX. This was overkill for the flybarred 50 heli though,
so I now have a single Arizona and 2500mah Relion pack and can fly all day with it. (I have corrected the C of G issue since then but still had to
add about 100 grams in the nose).

What happens with that setup if one of the regs fails? Are there not some bad possible scenarios??

[trillian]

What happens with that setup if one of the regs fails? Are there not some bad possible scenarios??

Well, chances are if a reg fails it will be an open circuit in which case the other reg keeps on working. If it fails resulting in a short then
it could still be a problem but that's less likely. Basically, having two regs is more of an asset than a liability in general because in the most
common scenarios the other reg will keep the RX powered.

[Vic.P]

The trouble with LiFe packs is that they are always expensive, tried buying one for a camera or camcorder? you'll know what i mean then

However, there is a LiFe pack available from West Wales Models which seems quite reasonably priced for the capacity, mind you, it looks like it might be quite large and heavy too so i'm not sure if it'll fit with what you're after

Lightspeed Lithium Fe 20C-35C 3600mah 2 cell 6.6v - West Wales Models

[jeznewsome]

I have bought LiFe packs from Robotbirds (Hyperion) mainly and run them in my Srimok and Jet Aircraft. LiFe packs are also available from HobbyKing.

For the Srimok I have a Perfect Regulators Failsafe Switch and Dual 5V reg for Tail and Throttle Servo (Fast Lad Performance). The Battery connect to the switch/reg via a deans and the power to the Rx (or VBar in my case) via the Throttle and Tails channels (i.e. dual power input) with a couple of leads (with a reduced 5V supply) to the Tail and throttle servo. I run a remote failsafe switch (from a AR7100R).

[Mylee]

2s 2300mAh A123 Battery Pack - Craft


Use these packs in both my FBL N9's, no regulator but AR7100

[J-S-Q]

2s 2300mAh A123 Battery Pack - Craft


Use these packs in both my FBL N9's, no regulator but AR7100

How many flights do you get out of these (and of roughly what flight time)?

[Mylee]

How many flights do you get out of these (and of roughly what flight time)?

Five flights to be safe, 8-9 minute flights