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I'm thinking about upgrading my T-Rex 600ESP to a 12S setup for the usual reasons (battery seems to get very hot with 6S, and with 50 flights on each pack I'm noting issues with the batteries that I don't have with my T-Rex 500 packs; my oldest batteries for the 500 (a pair of 2100mAh 3S packs) still give 6 minutes flight time and hardly get warm - and they are 2 years 4 months old. My T-Rex 600 also still gets 6 min flight time per 4100mAh 6S pack but on charging I note that there are now cells that come to 4.20v much sooner than the others, and it means each pack takes many hours to charge).
That I get 6 min on 4100mAh should tell you something about my flying style, 3D stick banging it ain't.
I'm thinking of using the motor/ESC that was used in this since the combo is widely available and proven reliable:
How to - 12s T-Rex 600 Setup On A Budget. - HeliFreak
I have some questions.
1. Firstly, he says he gets 6 minutes on a pair of 3000mAh packs with "sport flying and light 3D", that's way more watt-hours than I have now (and "sport flying and light 3D [0]" is how I'd term my flying, to get such little flight time with significantly more watt-hours - my current packs are 91Wh, and 2x3000mAh is 132Wh, a considerably larger amount of energy) either means this setup is considerably less efficient than the stock Align 6S setup, or his definition of "sport flying" is way different to mine and actually involves some of that 3D stuff that looks like gravity defiance (which is what I call "hard 3D").
Am I right in thinking that this rather poor flight time length is actually due to his flight regime rather than the setup itself being inefficient?
2. I want to optimise my setup for efficiency rather than high performance. Effectively, I'd like to take that setup and "derate" it for longevity, efficiency and being easy on batteries, and also better flight times. My 600 is already flybarless (and with experiments with my T-Rex 500, with a FBL setup you can make the headspeed ridiculously slow - I got it slow enough I could almost count the blades going by, I reckon from the sound about 1200 RPM - and not suffer bad effects like the nodding that the flybarred 500 will suffer. Now I wouldn't recommend 1200 RPM, it did fly a bit like a blob of jelly...)
What pinion would be good for this? The motor probably ought to run in its "sweet spot"; I see he runs a 12T but with a flat 100% throttle curve, I will not be using a flat throttle curve. Ultimately, my 600 will probably end up in a scale fuselage.
If no one knows the answer for a most efficient headspeed, I'm prepared to experiment. I'm hazarding a guess than 1900 RPM will be more than adequate. Depending on how I feel I want to go with the scale thing, it might end up with more blades on the head than 2 some time in the future. What would be the most efficient way of derating the setup - use, say, a 12T pinion and have the throttle curve top out at (at a guess) 85%, or use a smaller pinion and have the throttle curve top out at 100%?
A followup to this: would this use make a different motor choice a wise idea?
[0] I would define "sport flying and light 3D" as doing things like smooth loops and rolls, some sustained inverted flight, flips, stall turns etc. but not include things like tic-tocs etc., and to emphasise smoothness over gravity-defiance.
That I get 6 min on 4100mAh should tell you something about my flying style, 3D stick banging it ain't.
I'm thinking of using the motor/ESC that was used in this since the combo is widely available and proven reliable:
How to - 12s T-Rex 600 Setup On A Budget. - HeliFreak
I have some questions.
1. Firstly, he says he gets 6 minutes on a pair of 3000mAh packs with "sport flying and light 3D", that's way more watt-hours than I have now (and "sport flying and light 3D [0]" is how I'd term my flying, to get such little flight time with significantly more watt-hours - my current packs are 91Wh, and 2x3000mAh is 132Wh, a considerably larger amount of energy) either means this setup is considerably less efficient than the stock Align 6S setup, or his definition of "sport flying" is way different to mine and actually involves some of that 3D stuff that looks like gravity defiance (which is what I call "hard 3D").
Am I right in thinking that this rather poor flight time length is actually due to his flight regime rather than the setup itself being inefficient?
2. I want to optimise my setup for efficiency rather than high performance. Effectively, I'd like to take that setup and "derate" it for longevity, efficiency and being easy on batteries, and also better flight times. My 600 is already flybarless (and with experiments with my T-Rex 500, with a FBL setup you can make the headspeed ridiculously slow - I got it slow enough I could almost count the blades going by, I reckon from the sound about 1200 RPM - and not suffer bad effects like the nodding that the flybarred 500 will suffer. Now I wouldn't recommend 1200 RPM, it did fly a bit like a blob of jelly...)
What pinion would be good for this? The motor probably ought to run in its "sweet spot"; I see he runs a 12T but with a flat 100% throttle curve, I will not be using a flat throttle curve. Ultimately, my 600 will probably end up in a scale fuselage.
If no one knows the answer for a most efficient headspeed, I'm prepared to experiment. I'm hazarding a guess than 1900 RPM will be more than adequate. Depending on how I feel I want to go with the scale thing, it might end up with more blades on the head than 2 some time in the future. What would be the most efficient way of derating the setup - use, say, a 12T pinion and have the throttle curve top out at (at a guess) 85%, or use a smaller pinion and have the throttle curve top out at 100%?
A followup to this: would this use make a different motor choice a wise idea?
[0] I would define "sport flying and light 3D" as doing things like smooth loops and rolls, some sustained inverted flight, flips, stall turns etc. but not include things like tic-tocs etc., and to emphasise smoothness over gravity-defiance.
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