flux and solder, what do you use

[dogbiscuit]

i could do with a bit of a point in the right diretion, with regard to the best flux/right type of flux and solder to use. i have been using a draper electrical solder in combination with my plumbing flux. it works, but not always easy and i am sure its not the ideal combination. what are you guys that really know what you are doing using. any advise please

[waveydavey]

You need 60/40 eutectic solder and a decent iron, your just making it hard otherwise. Don't use the lead free stuff as it just doesn't whet easily. Enter 60/40 solder on ebay and you'll see what I mean

[Mike W]

This is the stuff I have been using since well I learnt how to solder lol....

LeadFree Solder : Solder : Maplin

[chrissy]

thought most solder today got flux built in only plummers use flux

[Fixxxer]

Always used this flux, have had it for ages FRY POWERFLOW FLUX, 100g, MEDIUM SIZE, Frys metals on eBay (end time 06-Mar-11 20:38:31 GMT)

Solder wise, whatever was at hand. it all works, just depends how good you are with the iron.

[Pitman]

Always used this flux, have had it for ages FRY POWERFLOW FLUX, 100g, MEDIUM SIZE, Frys metals on eBay (end time 06-Mar-11 20:38:31 GMT)

Solder wise, whatever was at hand. it all works, just depends how good you are with the iron.

Using that flux on electrical components is not a good idea, as it is acid based, and can / will cause corrosion problems.
http://www.frymetals.com/pdf_uploads/powerflowflux.PDF

In my experience (been soldering for far to many years to admit), the easiest / best solder to use is resin cored 60:40 lead/tin solder. The trick to getting a good joint is cleanliness, and and an iron of sufficient temperature to do the job required. The modern lead free solder is rubbish!

[Fixxxer]

Never had a prob with it in christ knows how many years but ta for the heads up.

[Toolman]

I was just listening to the Allthingsthatfly podcast, with Lucian (from Sporpion Pwr Sys) talking about soulder types.
Learned something I didn't know, apparantly companies have to use lead free solder to meet the environmental health laws.

Lead free solder has a much higher (100C+) melting point than lead core solder.
So when you come to solder an ESC or Lipo that has tinned ends you need to thoroughly re-tin with the your lead core solder. Otherwise what happens is that lead free solder doesn't melt properly & you often can't see, say when fitting bullets. Your lead solder is flowing but the lead free hasn't melted properly & you get a bad joint.

Just thought I would mention this.

Tim.

[Spanner]

If you use a no clean flux then you'll be fine. If you use a midly activated or a activated flux then the residue thats thats left behind is acidic and therefore corrosive and will need cleaning off, using something like TriChloroMethane (chloroform!) or a similar VOC compound, but not widely available anymore. Not had a Tric' bath at work for eaons!! Any soldering that I do on aircraft has to be done without flux for this reason, don't need a joint failing at Mach 2!

But then the soldering on aircraft is normally hidden away for a long time, unlike our models and we can see whats happening, so I can't really see it being an issue in the short term.

Sorry if I'm waffling on, watching the cricket!

[challis349]

I use whatever the RAF uses

[dogbiscuit]

thanks for all the input. i never have a problen with ec3's, its always the deans that dont seen to want to stick. then you mess about for a while, they start to melt! will have alook at some of the sugestions above and try some more.

is there a specific flux that is designed for use with 60/40 leaded solder?

[Pitman]

thanks for all the input. i never have a problen with ec3's, its always the deans that dont seen to want to stick. then you mess about for a while, they start to melt! will have alook at some of the sugestions above and try some more.

is there a specific flux that is designed for use with 60/40 leaded solder?

Decent 60:40 Pb Sn solder comes with the flux in the core. When soldering deans plugs, clean the terminals well first with some very fine water paper to remove any slight oxidation, and tin the contacts afterwards (i.e. apply a thin coat of solder on the freshly cleaned contacts). Likewise, tin the wires first. Then, place the tinned wire onto the contact, hold the soldering iron on the contact point between the wire and the connector, and feed solder in. It should flow into a nice concave joint between the wire and connector. Remove the soldering iron, whilst ensuring the wire and deans do no move until the solder cools. To make it easier, put a rubber band around the handle of a pair of pliers, and use this to hold the deans.

Dave

[bolders]

I have been using this stuff for years, both in work and at home

RS TIN/LEAD 60/40 0.7mm SOLDER WIRE 500G on eBay (end time 06-Mar-11 13:37:11 GMT)

The solder on this particular reel maybe a bit thin for what you want to use it for but it was the best image of the top of the reel I could find.

[Pitman]

I have been using this stuff for years, both in work and at home

RS TIN/LEAD 60/40 0.7mm SOLDER WIRE 500G on eBay (end time 06-Mar-11 13:37:11 GMT)

The solder on this particular reel maybe a bit thin for what you want to use it for but it was the best image of the top of the reel I could find.

Here you go;

Rapid Electronics - Tools, Fasteners & Production Equipment > Soldering Equipment > Solder & Fluxes

[Made2Fade]

What you need is a descent soldering iron not necessarilly the best solder to use. I use lead free solder from RS @ work.
Heres the stuff i use:-
RS | Tools and Tool Storage | Soldering | Flux Cored Solder | Lead Free Solder Reels

or thinner stuff if your iron isnt the best:-
RS | Tools and Tool Storage | Soldering | Flux Cored Solder | Lead Free Solder Reels