Heavy Duty Switch

[trillian]

I would like something like this for my 500 as I don't like the arcing when connecting a lipo, would I need something like above or can I just have a simple on-off switch to cut power plugged inbetween esc and rx?

There are now some switches being made to handle large Lipo / high amp connections. You'll need something like this; SPS 34V 60/120A | Electric flight | GENERAL ELECTRONICS

[Swashbuckler]

Nice find Trillian, this is great it allows you to carry your model to the flightline without it being live, even though the canopy is on and the batteries connected. Which lets face it we all do it even though you shouldn't.

[Sqwidge]

No that switch wouldn't work for a 500 esc as it is rated up to 30V but only 8A, and you will be drawing much more than that. It's simply for flightpack to rx not for main pack to esc. You want to check the arcing out on a 12s beast, made many a person crap themselves when I connect the srimok up. If you want to avoid the arcing you need a second parallel ground connection that has a 1 ohm resistor in it which you connect first.

You just lost me lol, I don't want it from pack to ESC I want it from ESC to Rx, I assume that the servo lead from the ESC that plugs into the batt port on your Rx is at regulated power so was gonna plug that servo lead into one end of the switch and the rx into the other.

Edit: Nice find but I don't have £65 for a switch so was hoping for a cheaper alternative and that appears to be an immobiliser where as I want kill all power so can plug lipo in without it arcing then just flick the switch to activate the whole heli.

[Swashbuckler]

If it's from the esc to the rx any switch that can handle 5A or more will work, but that won't stop the arcing. The arcing happens when you connect the lipo to the esc as there is a capacitor/s in the esc that get charged instantly. This happens whether the esc is connected to the rx or not.

[Sqwidge]

Now that I didn't know, I thought it was arcing due to completing a circuit with the Rx and motor.

Is there not a switch of the same type that I could just solder into the esc batt wire after cutting 10mm out instead of all the fancy stuff above?

basically Esc-esc positive wire-switch-esc positive wire-deans connector, its only to break a circuit so shouldnt be hard or require owt like that.

[Swashbuckler]

There probably is an automotive type switch out there that would work. It basically has to conform to 2 factors, the volts (25v for a 500) and the max amp draw (85A for a 500).

This switch if you find one will have 3 problems. Size and weight. And most important it will not be failsafe, meaning if it fails or goes to off position due to vibration you will lose all power to the esc and rx = complete loss of control of the heli.

That's why those switches are expensive, they are switched off by inserting a magnet so will always be on if you have not inserted said magnet. They also have some circuit in there that stops the arc.

As I said before the only way to inexpensively avoid the arc is with a resistor, but this will not be a kill switch, simply it will stop the arc.

[Sqwidge]

Thats fine no arc is perfect lol, only wanted a kill switch to eliminate this one problem tbh, any ideas on building a doofa to get the job done as I'm useless with a soldering iron.

[Swashbuckler]

If you are no good with soldering you may need to get some help, but all you need is a 1ohm resistor, some thin wire about the same size as the balance connector wire, some heat shrink and a balance plug. Solder the resistor to neg side of the esc, then connect this to balance plug so that it will connect to the black wire of the lipo balance connector. When you connect for flight you would do it in this order. + of batt to red of esc, then plug in your new connection to the balance plug, finally connect the - of the battery to the black on the esc. Obviously you will need seperate type connectors like bullets rather than deans.

[sacko]

Cheers Mike, but I reckon ill just stick the flighttech reg on there aswell and run @6v....for now anyway.

Sheryl - Ill be running BLS351s and the Outrage BLS 9088, both capable of 8v.

[trillian]

Sheryl - Ill be running BLS351s and the Outrage BLS 9088, both capable of 8v.

Thanks. I just got an AR7100 and it started me thinking I could run a 2 cell pack without a reg if the servos could take it. But I don't think the servos I'm using at the moment can. And somewhere I was reading something that made me realise, it seems like the ones that can handle 8 volts are all brushless, which then kinda makes sense.

[sacko]

JR8717HV, BLS351, BLS451, DS610s, Outrage Torques all take 8v. Im sure there are more...

[trillian]

JR8717HV, BLS351, BLS451, DS610s, Outrage Torques all take 8v. Im sure there are more...

Well, I have some 610s but haven't used them on anything yet. The two helis I thought would be good candidates have Futaba S9255s and AceRC DS1015's respectively and I don't think either of those would be suitable.

It's no biggie as I have regulators already I just like the idea of the simplicity.

[Swashbuckler]

I know people do run the 610s at 8v but I'm not sure I would, well I do but only as a throttle servo!

[sacko]

Ran mine at 8v on the N9 and the Velo for a while, no problems..... So far

[Swashbuckler]

Yeah I said I know people do and you is people, I've had three 610s ruin my day so far so I don't trust em on anything important at any voltage