wobbly starters

[moyesboy]

I got a normal plank type starter with a rubber cone thing into which you push the hex starter shaft.
This thing is crap. The cup bit on the starter is not very deep, the rubbery cup thing doesn't go all the way in. The starter shaft goes in, but not much of it is overlapping the metal cup.
Anyway - when I use it half the time is wobbles about, sometimes it tries to fly out. To get any joy I have to press down on the heli quite hard.

What do I need to fit to this starter? Is there someting that fits direct on the starter motor shaft?
I have absolutely no intention of ever starting a plane with it so somthing that fits the hex direct to it semi perminantly would be fine.
(I never needed an electric starter for my planes anyway).

I wish I owned a decent battery drill - my cheap chinese one will start the heli twice per battery and needs 240v to charge and the battery holds loses 50% of its charge in the time it takes me to get to the flying field!

[Thomas]

K&S do one fo 30 quid or if ya feeling flush then the Robbe one is the nuts.

https://www.skylinemodels.co.uk/acat...Equipment.html

[nightstalker]

What rubber insert to u have in the starter? is it the yellow one? as there hard and can be hard to get the starter wand in and straight, i find the white one is better as its softer

[moyesboy]

Looks like i managed to get the (yellow) thing much further in by putting the wand in the cup then cup in the starter with some of my heavy duty silicone multi use (including tail belt) lubricant!

[Nutz]

I have the yellow one on my starter and find if you have someone holding the blade grip for you, you can use one hand as a guide and it will spin straight instead of wobbling itself violently off.
I now use my Bosch drill as it is a lot easier and I can start my model at the flying line instead of the pits.
My bottom end is quite rich so but the time I start the model in the pits and get to the flight line there is always a good chance the bottom end has become to loaded for the engine to rev which results in a engine cut and a walk back to the pits.

[moyesboy]

My engine is also a bit rich at the botttom and although ticking over ok it can cut or at cough as it is opened up from tick over.
Are you running rich at the bottom to get closer to full power at the top without a lean spot in the middle?
I was thinking of leaning my slow running screw a little so it will open up better.
what I seem to have now is a bit of a rough run just below lift off speed but once it has run up and heater up a bit it dousen't do that.
however perhapsI shpould lean the main screw a bit more before I do that.
I'm running wildcat and it doesn't look as smokey as a lot of the pics I see but i'm still sure its running pretty rich.
I tried to run for a while at a lot of throttle on one of my flightd and then when I stopped I could touch the engine all over, even the head isn't that hot -and the back plate could only be described as cool. Also the power is not as impressive as my trex 3 cell (which is actually pretty good, not far off the phoenix sim model really - I don't think ashleys lab report does justice to my maxpower lipos!).

[Nutz]

I run my Hyper main around 1.5 turns and the low end needle is vertical on the rich side (i.e. from neutral turn it rich until it is vertical to the skids), the OS50SXH Hyper suffers form a bad carb design resulting in a lean mid range when the top and bottom are tuned perfectly. You need to run the bottom end rich to compensate for the lean mid range.

My crankcase backplate at 1.5 turns and 3 extra clicks open is 22°C, at 1.5 turns it is 30°C-33°C, I would not run it hotter than that. When I spool up from cold I have to feather the throttle to get the revs to pick up, as soon as the revs pick up and the blades start spinning I can open the throttle fairly quickly without it coughing and spluttering.

[Nutz]

My engine is also a bit rich at the botttom and although ticking over ok it can cut or at cough as it is opened up from tick over.

That sounds bang on!

Are you running rich at the bottom to get closer to full power at the top without a lean spot in the middle?

Yes

I was thinking of leaning my slow running screw a little so it will open up better.

I would not if you want your engine to last a long time

what I seem to have now is a bit of a rough run just below lift off speed but once it has run up and heater up a bit it dousen't do that.

That sounds good to

however perhapsI shpould lean the main screw a bit more before I do that.

nah, better to be rich than poor because it ran to lean

I'm running wildcat and it doesn't look as smokey as a lot of the pics I see but i'm still sure its running pretty rich.

My one on Magnum 30% (was a cold evening)
[ame]http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j74/nutz_photos/?action=view&current=Smokiee.flv[/ame]

I tried to run for a while at a lot of throttle on one of my flightd and then when I stopped I could touch the engine all over, even the head isn't that hot -and the back plate could only be described as cool.

You should be able to hold your finger on the backplate without it becoming uncomfortable hot, my head is a roughly 60°c-80°c (I think)

Also the power is not as impressive as my trex 3 cell (which is actually pretty good, not far off the phoenix sim model really - I don't think ashleys lab report does justice to my maxpower lipos!).

My Trex 4S and Raptor are comparably close, but I think my Trex may have it on the power to weight factor but definitely not on stability.

[Bikeracer]

What do I need to fit to this starter? Is there someting that fits direct on the starter motor shaft?
I have absolutely no intention of ever starting a plane with it so somthing that fits the hex direct to it semi perminantly would be fine.

What we use for starting the nitro bikes is a normal aircraft starter,electric drills are too slow and have too much torque and usually end up breaking the one way bearing.

If you completely remove the aluminium drive cup on the starter, you can connect your starter wand to the shaft using a short piece of that reinforced clear plastic petrol pipe about 3" long held in place with a Jubilee clip on each end.
We've now put the one way bearing on the end of the plastic pipe,but the pic shows what we used when the one way bearing was inside the backplate.

Don't know if this helps because I've not been near a nitro heli for donkeys years.

Allan

Click to enlarge.

[Bikeracer]

The only downside we've found to the plastic pipe connection is that the electric starter must be switched off before disengaging,otherwise you find out what knuckle rapping,eye poking and lip splitting really mean.

Allan

[moyesboy]

and in the case of helis - canopy smashing and blade cracking...
Might try that pipe thing.
The std wand is curiously long for my raptor.

[Bikeracer]

That hex wand shown in the pic is the original supplied with a TT nitro bike and cut down to a more useable size.
IIRC the petrol pipe was about £2.00 for a pack including the Jubilee clips.

Allan

[moyesboy]

The newly assembled with lubricant in the yellow cup setup worked fine tonight.
Until the hex bush on the starter shaft lost is grub screws....
Possibly loosened by the wobbly starter before?