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  • What soldering iron

    Ok I have to get a soldering iron for putting differnt connectors on lipos etc and any other heli related soldering job. Never had one before so dont really know what I should get.Can you damage electronics with to much heat or anything like that.

    So what do I want ?

    OoPs wrong section can somone move this please
    Last edited by invasion; 01-02-2010, 05:55 PM.
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  • #2
    I have something like this, and can do very small work (with the heat turned down and a small tip) right up to 10/12SWG wires for big lipo's and deans connectors (heat turned up with larger tips).

    Solderpro 120 Gas Soldering Iron Kit : Gas Soldering Irons & Kits : Maplin
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    • #3
      For a cheap and cheerful one I would recommend the 50W temperature adjustable one from Maplins for battery connectors. As it is temperature controllable you should be able to turn it down when doing more delicate components.

      In answer to your question, yes electronics can be damaged by too much or too high a heat. Speed is the key to soldering.
      Member of Mk Heli Club



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      • #4
        Originally posted by Evo Andy View Post
        For a cheap and cheerful one I would recommend the 50W temperature adjustable one from Maplins for battery connectors. As it is temperature controllable you should be able to turn it down when doing more delicate components.

        In answer to your question, yes electronics can be damaged by too much or too high a heat. Speed is the key to soldering.
        Here is the link to this iron - great value, but appears to be out of stock at the moment:

        50W Solder Station : Temperature Controlled Irons & Solder Stations : Maplin
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        • #5
          to be honest i have both of the above and i much prefer the solderpro as there are no wires hanging around and also the little blow torches are handy for the heat shrink.
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          • #6
            Originally posted by Pitman View Post
            Here is the link to this iron - great value, but appears to be out of stock at the moment:

            50W Solder Station : Temperature Controlled Irons & Solder Stations : Maplin
            I have one of those and it works a treat. I could do with some more tips tho, spade type suitable for deans.

            Originally posted by brin View Post
            to be honest i have both of the above and i much prefer the solderpro as there are no wires hanging around and also the little blow torches are handy for the heat shrink.
            My only worry with this option, which I did consider, is that being a numpty as I am, the one time when I really need it would be the one time I run out of gas.

            Martin

            Most of the Aligns, fair few Spektrum bits, bunch of Align & HiTec servos, OBE, VD & Bar.

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            • #7
              got the same one as pitman but not used it yet. bought it a few months ago when they were on special at maplins for a tenner...
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              • #8
                I have a gas one, but dont find it as good as electric. yes its handy to use outside etc, but I find that it looses heat very quicky. May just be my one I suppose tho


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                • #9
                  After a torrid time trying to get my old underpowered electric soldering iron to heat gold EC3 connectors enough to flow solder, I opted for THIS gas kit.
                  The torch makes short work of those connectors, and the quick heat-up time and wireless make it very handy!
                  Trex 450 V3

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                  • #10
                    I use this one for the last 2 years and love it!!

                    Temperature-Controlled Soldering Station : Temperature Controlled Irons & Solder Stations : Maplin

                    Jim.
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                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the helpfull info really appreciated

                      cant decide I am thinking GAS on one hand...but then I like the 50 w adjustable one as well hmmm.

                      Does anyone have trouble with EC3 connectors and the electric soldering irons like Xpower180 did ??? if so I think it will have to be gas although that concerns me that if I get it wrong with the heat I can imagine it damaging really quickly
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                      • #12
                        IMO, you wont go wrong with a gas iron, and you wont need to worry about running out, its only lighter fuel gas, so keep a couple of cans in the garage.

                        The main secrets to good soldering is Cleanliness, heat and speed. Nearly all solder has flux in it, but I still have a tin of flux to hand. You can put a tiny bit of flux on your first joint to do (say a leg on a deans), and then put some solder on to the tip of you iron, and now put the flat of the tip onto the flat of the deans, and a fraction later, add some solder to the heated area with the tip still in contact with the leg. Remove iron now, and you have 'Tinned' that half of the joint. Do the end of the wire in the same way, and then put the two together and heat again, job done. If you do this with a to small an iron, there will be little heat transfer, and you end up leaving the iron on the joint to long and then you are getting a build up of heat in the surrounding area, not good. So more heat, shorter time.

                        Watch the vid that 'Finless' Bob did on Helifreaks on his 'How to 101'

                        Forgot to say, use one of those holders with 2 crock clips to hold the wire/connector to help give you that '3rd' hand.
                        Last edited by Rctintin; 01-02-2010, 09:04 PM.
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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Rctintin View Post
                          IMO, you wont go wrong with a gas iron, and you wont need to worry about running out, its only lighter fuel gas, so keep a couple of cans in the garage.

                          The main secrets to good soldering is Cleanliness, heat and speed. Nearly all solder has flux in it, but I still have a tin of flux to hand. You can put a tiny bit of flux on your first joint to do (say a leg on a deans), and then put some solder on to the tip of you iron, and now put the flat of the tip onto the flat of the deans, and a fraction later, add some solder to the heated area with the tip still in contact with the leg. Remove iron now, and you have 'Tinned' that half of the joint. Do the end of the wire in the same way, and then put the two together and heat again, job done. If you do this with a to small an iron, there will be little heat transfer, and you end up leaving the iron on the joint to long and then you are getting a build up of heat in the surrounding area, not good. So more heat, shorter time.

                          Watch the vid that 'Finless' Bob did on Helifreaks on his 'How to 101'

                          Forgot to say, use one of those holders with 2 crock clips to hold the wire/connector to help give you that '3rd' hand.
                          You have convinced me Gas it is

                          Now was looking around this morning and thought I had also better get some wire strippers that you can set to a size and you cant make a mistake -I dont want to end up with wires to short- what size are the wires on lipos and ESC ? would these be the ones to get:

                          T31012 Ck VDE Wire Cable Stripping Plier 160mm on eBay (end time 18-Feb-10 17:04:17 GMT)
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                          • #14
                            Another tip, whilst it may not be PC or support our nanny state, you will find it a lot easier if you use 'proper' solder, not the cr*p lead free stuff!

                            Draper 100g Reel Of K60/40 Tin / Lead Solder Wire - 44040 - Solder - Draper Tools - DIY and Tools from DIYTools.co.uk - Your First Stop For All Things DIY !
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                            • #15
                              I also use high silver content solder for componant work.

                              For wire stripping, I use something like this:

                              Am-Tech Quality Adjustable Auto Wire Stripper only £4.00 - Buy Online or Call 0800 310 2852

                              Although, silicon covered wire does not strip to well, so have to use the pen knife route. (Not as sharp as a stanly blade, so wont cut the wire it's self)
                              Henseleit TDR V-Bar x2
                              SAB Goblin 700 V-Bar
                              SAB Black Nitro V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
                              T-Rex 700e DFC V-Bar
                              T-Rex 700N MAJ DFC V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
                              Synergy N7 V-Bar OS105 HZ-R
                              Synergy E7se V-Bar
                              Synergy N5c FBL V-Bar
                              Gaui NX7 V-Bar YS91 Tareq SRX
                              T-Rex 550 E FBL V-Bar
                              Gaui NX4 V-Bar
                              V-Control

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