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flybar holder belt cp

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  • flybar holder belt cp

    Why can't they make the belt CP metal flybar holder on its own as if you have a crash uits usually the flybar holder that the threads have sheared on I have saved a little bit by drilling the opposite side of the flybar and tapped a thread, I then made the bolt a little bit longer and it has held for a few crashes and still is holding. So why do we have to pay for a whole new head asembly just to get the flybar holder. Hope you all try my tip of drillinf and tapping let me know how you get on and if anyone knows where you can buy just the holder please let me know.
    Regards
    Keith

  • #2
    Ive never had to buy a new head for the flybar assembly,

    i usually insert a flat head screw driver and pop out the bearing either side, then the flybar carrier pulls right out ;D
    "Anger and Frustration bring the best out of my flying ability.. because generally I don't give a shit either if the machine hit's the deck or stay's in the air - both will accomplish satisfaction, but most of all it exerts the feeling of flying conservatively. - Callum"

    www.callumheli.co.uk

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    • #3
      You could buy the alloy version, it was one of a few bits that survived my crash
      sigpic

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      • #4
        It is the alloy version i have the threads strip[ on the actual control arms, there are only two screw holes in the flybar carrier, once any of those are stripped then the flybar carrier is useless I drilled the opposite sides and tapped them thenI used slightly longer bolts but I don't klnow how long they will last. I just don't like having to buy the whole head assembly to just replace the holder. CallumI do not understand the bit about the screw driver head and pulling out the flybar carrier as if the screw threads strip, where would you screw the control arms to.
        Regards
        Keith

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        • #5
          Sorry, I didnt understand your first post.

          So the threads are stripping where the mixing arms attach to the flybar carrier?
          Or whee the carrier pivots in the main block?

          Ive not had this problem myself and it looks reasonably strong to me.

          In my last crash I broke almost every plastic link on the head, sheared off a balljoint on a bladeholer and bent the flybar almost 180 degrees. So it was a pretty bad impact, but the mai structure of the head was perfectly fine afterwards. I think the plastic links breaking and popping off absorbed most of the energy.

          Are you doing the screws up to the correct torque (not overtightening) and using all the correct washers?
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Yes I use the bearing washers to go into the flybar holder and its where the mixing bars attach to the holder. I have found that if you drill the opposite side to the hole you can actually make the flybar holder last longer by drilling and tapping the hole then I used some slightly longer screw bolts and it has lasted so far but I would like to know if you can just buy that part as its very expensive to replace the whole lot when you don't have to. If it does happen to you then try drilling it and tapping it and you won't have to buy another set then (until the next time lol) thanks for your reply anyway.
            Keith

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            • #7
              Originally posted by willisshooting View Post
              Yes I use the bearing washers to go into the flybar holder and its where the mixing bars attach to the holder. I have found that if you drill the opposite side to the hole you can actually make the flybar holder last longer by drilling and tapping the hole then I used some slightly longer screw bolts and it has lasted so far but I would like to know if you can just buy that part as its very expensive to replace the whole lot when you don't have to. If it does happen to you then try drilling it and tapping it and you won't have to buy another set then (until the next time lol) thanks for your reply anyway.
              Keith
              Now I understand, so you drill and tap new holes and then flip it over

              Its strange that you have broken this part a few times.

              If you have to buy another one be carefull not to overtighten the screws as this will weaken the threads.

              If esky had designed this part better the brass spacers would be part of the aluminium peice and this would allow for a longer thread and would make the entire part much stronger.

              This sort of thing is the difference between esky and some of the more expensive models, just that little extra thought has gone into the design of the parts. The esky works fine.. but its that bit weaker or that bit heavyer than the competition.
              sigpic

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              • #8
                Thanks again Holst,
                I am really glad I was able to make you understand what I was going on about hope you find my little tip useful as well.
                Regards
                Keith

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