Flybar tuning for F3C

[snapshot]

I'm currently trying to set up a 600N & a 700N for F3C.

I'm getting there slowly but any insight into flybar tuning would be greatly appreciated, by this I don't mean flybar theory!

Things like, what flybar length to choose. How do you know if you have gone too short. What difference the position of flybar weights make etc

I have searched and have found nothing that helps, so any insight from you F3C guys would be gratefully appreciated.

[electricsceadu]

with flybar length i would think that a longer bar would be better for a stable hover plus heavy paddles (if you go to short you will lose the stable hover)
i would try the hirobo freya 700 paddles for the 700 as the freya is a f3c biased machine
the paddles have removable weights so you can fine tune them

for the 600 try the sceadu evo 50 paddles reason as above

with the flybar weights start at the very end by the paddle and then move them inwards until you get the feel your after

blades a heavy blade would be better that a light 3d blade


one note on the flybar if you go to long the heli will be over sensitive out of the hover in forward flight

as a start try 10-15mm longer than the std one

[snapshot]

Thanks

Now this is confusing!

Most F3C posts talk about using shorter flybars with heavier paddles and weights!

The original 600N flybar was 400mm with a later upgrade to a 440mm flybar to make the response more crisp.

So, I'm confused !!!!!

[electricsceadu]

the only one i'm going by is a scale heli i fitted a longer bar to as the one that came with it had been cut down
the only bar i could get was a lot lot longer than the std bar and i had the stable hover but very sensitive forward flight

and quick uk used to do a longer bar for the shuttle for a more stable hover for a beginner

as the 50 size bar is the cheapest try it with the 600 with a longer and shorter bar

the sceadu bar is 390mm part number is 0402-055 in packs of two (yes align wasn't the first at packing things in pairs)

and try the align 400 and 440mm ones to see how you like the way it flies

[Steve]

Thanks

Now this is confusing!

Most F3C posts talk about using shorter flybars with heavier paddles and weights!

The original 600N flybar was 400mm with a later upgrade to a 440mm flybar to make the response more crisp.

So, I'm confused !!!!!

That's because FAI flyers run a higher flybar ratio - usually about 1:1 3D flyers like their ratio to be about 0.7:1 which is where your Align models will be set as standard out of the box.

[snapshot]

Thanks, now it's starting to make sense!

On the 700N I have the G-Force tuning arms set for F3C and on the 600 the SF arms are in the outermost holes and the swash arms have been replaced with the 700 swash arms which are about 3mm longer(radius arm to centre of ball).

Having said that I have no idea what the ratio is now or how to measure it! That would be useful to know!

[Steve]

OK - switch it all on and put the main blades at zero degrees pitch.

Now the flybar ratio is the ratio of how far the main blades move when they follow the flybar.

So, at zero degrees and everything mid-stick, tilt the flybar up and down and look along the blades towards the blade grips as you are doing it, and compare how far the flybar tilts in comparison to how far the main blades tilt.

Obviously, 1:1 is where the blade grips follow the flybar exactly. If the blades tip up and down less than the flybar, the the ratio is less than 1:1

3D helicopters tend to run about 0.7:1 and all Align helis will come with this ratio as the standard setting. By moving the balls on the mixing arms, you can increase the ratio to up to about 1:1 which is a more FAI setting.

One important word of advice - if you change the flybar ratio then check your pitch ranges as well. If you increase the ratio, then your total pitch range will decrease significantly, so you need to go back to the Tx and increase your swash mix values.

[pchristy]

Mark arrives back in the UK Friday morning. Give him a day to get over the jet-lag, and I'msure he'll be able to help! He's the King of setting up flybars.....!

--
Pete

[electricsceadu]

looking at the post at the same time as mine i was wrong so i've removed it

[Steve]

Mark arrives back in the UK Friday morning. Give him a day to get over the jet-lag, and I'msure he'll be able to help! He's the King of setting up flybars.....!

--
Pete

Yep, all of my above comments are of Mark's direct decendancy.

[mchristyuk]

Snapshot,

Sat at the airport waiting for our flight.. I think I've covered most things that you're likely to want to know under the Setup Advice section of this website.. Stuart hasn't made them all sticky so it took a bit digging.. so here are the links to help you out:

Paddles: http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/setup-...3-paddles.html

Mixing Ratios & Delta: http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/setup-...ios-delta.html

Swashplate Timing: http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/setup-...te-timing.html

Flybar Length: http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/setup-...ar-length.html

Cheers

Mark

[snapshot]

Many thanks for that, having sight checked the blades against the flybar using a pitch gauge I can definitely say that the ratio is not 1:1

I'll have to get a protractor and spirit levels and do a measurement technique I have found to get the actual ratio, which can't be a bad thing. It could be useful for others.

But I did lose pitch range when I made the adjustments (had to alter swash % to correct), so I assume the ratio is getting closer to 1:1

BTW I love doing things the hard way, why get a new heli when you can adjust what you have.

[snapshot]

Thanks Mark, now it's starting to make sense.

I now know what to look for when setting things up and how the changes should or shouldn't affect the heli.

No one fly's F3C at my club so it's hard to get definitive answers and I'm not a great flyer. But it's something to aim for and my skills are improving all the time, now that I have something to aim for and I'm still enjoying it

[electricsceadu]

thats whats its all about
enjoying yourself
and it doesn't matter if you can only hover, a scale pilot, a sports flyer, fly f3c or 3d as long as you enjoy what you are doing and not worrying about what someone else thinks of your flying style