Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Soldering iron...again

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Soldering iron...again

    I have read a few previous threads on here about irons. Just making sure there arent any better/better value for money irons about.

    This one is on Maplins, but I have seen it £10 cheaper on fleabay.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50W-SOLDERING-IRON-STATION-SOLDER-PUMP-3-SPARE-TIPS_W0QQitemZ220440768490QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Ho me_Garden_PowerTools_SM?hash=item33534b2fea&_trksi d=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72% 3A1683|293%3A1|294%3A50

    Good one to get still?
    x 3

  • #2
    thats the same one ive got.

    ive had mine for 18 months, carnt fault it really, ive soldered deans with no problems.
    Ian

    Dont own anything at moment and these shakes are getting worse every day


    Gone with the wind:
    raptor30, trex 600n, RJX extreme50, trex 450 sport, beltCP, cxp2, dx7
    X1

    Comment


    • #3
      Dont suppose you have tried soldering the balance wires back on to the pack? As thats where my 25W one doesnt cut the mustard.
      x 3

      Comment


      • #4
        thats one thing ive never had to do yet.

        but i do a lot of soldering for various aplications (from realy thin wire/circuit boards to the realy thick wire/connectors like deans) and i just vary the temp depending in the size of wire/tab i need to work on. ive not had a job yet that this hasnt been able to handle.
        Ian

        Dont own anything at moment and these shakes are getting worse every day


        Gone with the wind:
        raptor30, trex 600n, RJX extreme50, trex 450 sport, beltCP, cxp2, dx7
        X1

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by unleashed666 View Post
          thats the same one ive got.

          ive had mine for 18 months, carnt fault it really, ive soldered deans with no problems.
          Do you wind the temperature setting mostly all the way up?
          Edmund
          All Electric:
          Tx: Futaba 18mz & Spektrum DX8 Gen 2 for BnF toys
          Helicopters: Blade mCPX, Nano CPX; T-Rex 250SE; Outrage G5, Outrage G5 FBL; Trex 500 CF; Trex 500 ESP, Trex 500 Pro FBL
          Small Planks: Multiplex Acromaster, PA Addiction, PA Extra 260,
          Big Plank: Jabiru SK
          Chargers: eStation Bantam BC8; Graupner Ultra Duo Plus 50, LiPro Quad 6, Revolectrix Celpro PowerLab 8 v2

          Comment


          • #6
            for deans type stuff yes, then tin the tip of the iron, put a blob of solder on the tip, then put it on the connector along with some more solder till you get a nice blob (just dont keep the iron on the connector longer than a second or the plastic starts to melt)

            as a general rule - The hotter the temp the shorter the time of contact.
            Ian

            Dont own anything at moment and these shakes are getting worse every day


            Gone with the wind:
            raptor30, trex 600n, RJX extreme50, trex 450 sport, beltCP, cxp2, dx7
            X1

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by sacko View Post
              Dont suppose you have tried soldering the balance wires back on to the pack?
              It's possible that now you're dealing with lead free solder. That needs a higher temperature in any case. It's definitely the case, if the pack has a "RoHS" label (Restriction of Hazardous Substances EU directive).
              Woohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoohoo -Barbra Streisand

              Comment


              • #8
                Lead free solder is a nasty horrible invention I am sticking to 60:40 lead solder for as long as i can source it.
                Rob


                T-Rex 450 Pro - BeastX v3 FBL, Hitec 5065's, DS520, Futaba R6203SB
                Quad x-copter - KK 5.5 Multicopter v4.7, 850KVA motors, 30A ESC's, Orange RC FASST Rx, Carbon & Alu frame, LED strips for orientation, 10x4.5 props.
                Quad x-copter - KK Plus 5.5d, 1000KVA motors, 30A ESC's, Orange RC FASST Rx, GF & Alu frame, LED strips, 10x4.5 props (coming soon!)
                Futaba 9CP & 10CG

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sacko,I have the exact same soldering iron and i think it's really good and i have had no problems with it either,I got mine from Maplins and it was only £19.99 so i don't know if it must have gone up now??
                  Cheers Grant

                  Proud owner of 2 Eddie Gold Stars!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by sacko View Post
                    Dont suppose you have tried soldering the balance wires back on to the pack?
                    My understanding is that the cell tabs tend to be aluminium, which is completely unsolderable with normal solder. I believe you can get special aluminium solder, but originally I think the joins tend to be spot welded.
                    Neil H: Certified compatible.
                    P&M Quantum 912 Golf Charlie Foxtrot Bravo Mike
                    Trex500ESP/ds760;BeamE4/Jazz/2221-8/GY401;WOT4e
                    Contributor to http://www.rcheliwiki.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have one of those and paid £19.99 at Maplins. Perhaps the deal has ended?
                      Martin

                      Most of the Aligns, fair few Spektrum bits, bunch of Align & HiTec servos, OBE, VD & Bar.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by unwind-protect View Post
                        My understanding is that the cell tabs tend to be aluminium, which is completely unsolderable with normal solder. I believe you can get special aluminium solder, but originally I think the joins tend to be spot welded.
                        You also need a special flux, especially for aluminium, I'm guessing it's quite caustic as aluminium oxidises very quickly. I managed to find some aluminium solder and flux in a model train shop locally, seems to be in use in the model train world

                        After years of using the lead-free solder I finally ordered a good size roll of lead rosin cored solder - it makes a much better job with less hassle.
                        Steve H

                        http://www.himbletonRChelicopters.co.uk
                        Trex 600N, Trex 700N, now 3G!, Raptor E550 now in fetching Hughes 500E, Trex 250, Trex 500CF, Trex 550E 3G, Beam E4, Outrage 550, Logo 500 3D.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by SRH990 View Post
                          You also need a special flux, especially for aluminium, I'm guessing it's quite caustic as aluminium oxidises very quickly.
                          That's the problem. I believe if you clean off the oxide and stop it re-oxidising (for example, by working in a pure nitrogen atmosphere...) it would solder fine with normal solder. Good luck with that!
                          Neil H: Certified compatible.
                          P&M Quantum 912 Golf Charlie Foxtrot Bravo Mike
                          Trex500ESP/ds760;BeamE4/Jazz/2221-8/GY401;WOT4e
                          Contributor to http://www.rcheliwiki.com

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X