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Trex 600n Build nearly finished. (problems)

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  • Trex 600n Build nearly finished. (problems)

    Ok.. So I've gone great guns on the build... She's nearing completion but I've hit a couple of minor problems...
    1. By JR 770T gyro touches the inside of the canopy on the front gyro mount, so maybe that will have to go on the tail block at the back... (Easy enough)
    2. My cyclic servo horns are touching the inside of the canopy too! I have hitec HS5625MG servo's on the cyclics and I'm using the red servo horns (trimmed so there are only 2 arms). I might be able to shave 1mm off the ends of the current arms, but I guess I need to be careful not to get too close to the ball (at 15mm hole out from centre) so as to weaken it?

    Have others had problems with servo's fowling the canopy? (only the front two aileron and aux2 servo's!)

    What did you do to solve the problem?

    Also.. That lower canopy mount that clips over the landing gear.... SSSSHHHHEEEEESSSSHHH! it's hard to clip on! I ended up putting a small dab of oil on it so it would slip on easier!

  • #2
    would be best u get for self some align servo horns, those red ones are chunky things.
    Canopy clip just heat it up abit and bend it out a small amount should soften up
    Proud member of the Mk Heli Club


    MK HELI CLUB WEB SITE


    Marriage is like playing poker. In the beginning, all you need is two hearts and a diamond. Then at the end all you want is a club and a spade.sigpic

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    • #3
      yup thay are tight there are a couple of options >

      use disc's instead and if poss put the balls on the inside of the disc's so thay dont interfear with the canopy.

      with the gyro you could if you have a piece of carbon make a 2" square plate and remove the front mount stick the plate to the servos under the removed mount and then stick your gyro direct to the carbon plate i did this before the gyro mount tray came out and it should lower the gyro a few mm
      DMHC = Nice place to fly!
      MyPhotoBucket


      mmm what shall I buy next

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      • #4
        Servo balls should be on the inside of the discs/arms so how they are rubbing the canopy beats me..

        Lower canopy mount is a complete arse I agree.

        Easy fix for that is to take your modelling knife and trim a leading edge on the strut it clips over, Done that with mine and it glides on now and has no effect on the security of it coming back off in flight..


        [DAMN]

        Jason beat me to it..

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        • #5
          Lol... Thanks for the pointers guys!

          Servo horns wise, my balls are on the inside of the horns. (ooh errr missus) It's the arms themselves that touch the canopy.... I've trimmed them down so their only 2 arms now, not 4 any more. But it's the two remaining arms that are touching...

          Now I heard the hitec Align wheels were crap? Is that no the case now? I read somewhere that they had play on the splines so the arms would rotate a little on the servo's and cause centering problems. They can't be expensive, perhaps I'll buy a set, I guess they'll also give me the perfect 14.5mm spacing too (it might cure my swash binding issue too. Currently it just touches the bearing block at lowest pitch and full cyclic....)

          Canopy clip wise! I'll give them two ideas a go!

          Good idea on lowering the gyro! I'll try that!

          Thanks guys! Brilliant advice as usual!

          Cheers
          Rob

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          • #6
            Originally posted by trebor27 View Post
            Now I heard the hitec Align wheels were crap? Is that no the case now?
            I do know that both the JR and Futaba Align servo wheels are perfect and can be setup with zero subtrim because the choices of postition are many with the said wheels..

            Would have thought the Hitec wheels would have been the same.

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            • #7
              I just googled to see who had the hitec servo wheels in stock and found this:
              [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yiWb_-_LmA[/ame]
              Their like £3, so I think I'll buy a set from fast-lad and see how I get on with them.. If their crap they can go in the bin...

              Cheers
              Rob

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              • #8
                well they look crap seems to be a lot of movement the last you want in a heli is a load of slop

                Good luck
                Danny
                London model heli flyers

                I am learning all the time. The tombstone will be my diploma. ~Eartha Kitt

                Blade Mcx
                Blade 400 with 3 x hs65mg's, Gy401 with fs61bb tail, 450 canopy
                Yellow 600 nsp 451's on cyclic, 251 on tail with Spartan ds760 ,ds620 on throttle,Spectrum ar7100 + csm carbsmart
                Accu RC / Phoenix sims
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                http://pic7.piczo.com/Carpman68
                www.dannycablephotography.co.uk

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                • #9
                  I don't know whats going on with those horns but they just seemed to slip straight on to the servo shaft without any force at all!
                  The Align horns for the futaba and JR servos are a much tighter fit. You need to apply quite a bit of pressure to get them on, which is a good thing.
                  I am not sure if it was the horns in that vid or the output shaft of the servo but it did look sloppy.
                  Adrian.
                  sigpic
                  http://www.passrightmotoringschool.co.uk

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                  • #10
                    use the undrilled wheels that come with the hitec servos the large ones and drill them yourself this way you can get them spot on with no subtrim.
                    DMHC = Nice place to fly!
                    MyPhotoBucket


                    mmm what shall I buy next

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                    • #11
                      My JR 770 gyro is up front. I found that the screw holding the screen on (plastic canopy) was touching the gyro so I cut a little off the end and had enough clearance.
                      Steve H

                      http://www.himbletonRChelicopters.co.uk
                      Trex 600N, Trex 700N, now 3G!, Raptor E550 now in fetching Hughes 500E, Trex 250, Trex 500CF, Trex 550E 3G, Beam E4, Outrage 550, Logo 500 3D.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by trebor27 View Post
                        Also.. That lower canopy mount that clips over the landing gear.... SSSSHHHHEEEEESSSSHHH! it's hard to clip on! I ended up putting a small dab of oil on it so it would slip on easier!
                        Theres a knack to that... if you hold the front strut/undercarriage with your fingers and palm and then use your 2 thumbs to push on the clip. Goes on pretty easy that way. Just do the reverse for getting it off but wrap your fingers right round the front strut and push the clip off from the rear with your middle and index fingers.

                        Also i highly recommend the Align servo wheels they make setup an absolute sinch with zero subtrim as they have more options for mounting because of the splines as Tim already said. The ones i seen didnt have the slack in your talking about mind. For a few quid its worth a shot anyways.

                        Cheers
                        Lee
                        Last edited by Made2Fade; 16-09-2008, 03:09 PM.
                        Lee
                        sigpic
                        www.raptoruas.co.uk
                        www.lee.rcha-uk.com
                        www.gensace.de

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                        • #13
                          I don't think I received a set of wheels with the hitec servo's....
                          The first bunch of cyclic servo's the shop sold me had some. But I found out they were analogue servo's.. So I took them back and changed them to digitals.. I don't think the digitals had wheels... They had an assortment of arms, but not wheels.... I can double check when I get home though....

                          I'll get a set of align servo wheels ordered from Fast-Lad for when I return to the UK... Then if their pap, I'll look at modifying the red servo arms.

                          Steve, I'm not sure I follow what you mean ref the 770 gyro... But my kit came with a fibre-glass canopy, so maybe it's different....

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                          • #14
                            PS. I also just wanted to say in case someone reading this was contemplating getting a larger heli (I had only worked on a 450 size before)...

                            The 600 is WONDERFUL to work on compared to a 450 scale model... Things are just that little bit bigger, I don't think I'd drop and lost a single screw with the 600, whereas I was always loosing screws on the floor with my Protech zoom 450...

                            The model has gone together almost effortlessly.... The only thing I wish I had done was put the fuel tank in with the frames apart! I had to strip em apart again to get the tank in, in the end! ;-)

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