Protos 500 streched

[ollie]

Thats great the only issue I have it’s that it’s a 2mm socket and I wouldn’t want to round it off asi would never get it off. I might see if I can get some different ones

[Grumpy]

The button heads do usually have a smaller socket size than the cap heads, it's the trade off for the lower height of the head. If you use a good quality hex wrench it's not usually a problem except for the smaller sizes which can be a pain.

[Mikej]

I use the 425mm Align blades on my unstretched Protos - really like how they fly and great value.

I had button head screws on one of my helis (can't remember which one) and they were a nightmare - the "socket" isn't as deep as a cap head and unless you are very careful using good quality hex-drivers and new bolts they were very prone to rounding the "socket" making them a nightmare to undo.

When I have had the issue that you have I have simple rounded the corners of the blade off with a file / sandpaper to allow them to turn.

Personally I would stick clear of button head bolts.

[nkma]

I use the 425mm Align blades on my unstretched Protos - really like how they fly and great value.

I had button head screws on one of my helis (can't remember which one) and they were a nightmare - the "socket" isn't as deep as a cap head and unless you are very careful using good quality hex-drivers and new bolts they were very prone to rounding the "socket" making them a nightmare to undo.

When I have had the issue that you have I have simple rounded the corners of the blade off with a file / sandpaper to allow them to turn.

Personally I would stick clear of button head bolts.

Well put! Whenever I can I replace button head with cap head.

One example was Align 450 (PRO and probably others), that was full of M2.5 button head, 1,5 mm hex screws.
When they are all replaced by M2.5 cap head, 2 mm hex screws it becomes a joy to repair, in comparison.

/Bo

[Grumpy]

Well put! Whenever I can I replace button head with cap head.

One example was Align 450 (PRO and probably others), that was full of M2.5 button head, 1,5 mm hex screws.
When they are all replaced by M2.5 cap head, 2 mm hex screws it becomes a joy to repair, in comparison.

/Bo

I agree, like I mentioned the smaller sizes (with 1.5mm socket and smaller) are a real pain, but the slightly larger (3mm and up) that use a 2mm+ socket personally I've not had issues with. You do of course have to be careful to go easy on loctite and not over-tighten. But I would only use button heads where they are necessary due to their low profile, all other places i'd also prefer cap head.

[ollie]

hi all

thanks for this i would much rather leave the bolt in, so i will just try the blades 1st and maybe even sandy the main bolt down a little

[nkma]

hi all

thanks for this i would much rather leave the bolt in, so i will just try the blades 1st and maybe even sandy the main bolt down a little

I would hesitate to sand the bolt in place. If metal fragments gets into the bearings, these will deteriorate fast. In particular the open thrust bearing is susceptible to contamination.

It happens that I work on a motor shaft or a tail shaft to get a flat area for the lock screw. When I do, with the shaft in place, I am very careful to tighten (with paper, a plastic bag and tape) between where I work and the nearby bearings.

/Bo