Think I've bitten off more than I can chew!

[ianmat]

Hi guys! I've made a return to helis after a couple of years of flying planks and found myself the proud new owner of a Trex 600 nitro pro, converted to DFC with a microbeast controller. I've previously flown a trex 500e DFC that I converted myself and have a trex 450 flybarred, so I am familiar enough with the Trex range, however I have a few questions, if you'll indulge me!

Should the tail drive (shaft driven) be noisy when turned by hand?
Should the microbeast light go green when initialised? It comes on and goes through start up, then everything responds to the radio but the light is purple?
There seems to be a bit of metallic noise when the engines running, however everything seems normal, am I just being paranoid?
Is there anyway to tame this thing a bit? when I hovered it, the tail response is mental!! Do I reduce the rates in the transmitter?

Thanks in advance!!

Ian

[waveydavey]

You might get a little gear noise, is it coming from the tailbox or the maingear area

Purple is correct for rate mode after initialisation, I should expect that you want to use this in heading lock so you want blue. You need to alter this on the channel you're using for tail gain.

Metal doesn't sound good, what engine is it, some pipes have a metallic clanging noise.

What I would do with the BeastX is set the unit to Tx control. Control parameter B and solid blue. Then you can set the response of the cyclic and tail using your rates and expo, don't use one of the presets and use dual rates or expo in the Tx

[ianmat]

Thanks for the swift response Wavey!
I think I need to find a manual for the microbeast before I start playing with it! not sure which version I have though?
Also is there anyway to get the glowplug to ignite without taking the canopy off and pressing start on the 2 in 1 voltage regulator?

Cheers

[helicol]

Status LED should be solid blue after initialisation if you use heading hold for tail gyro, purple means your tail is in rate mode.
To reduce rotation speed you reduce rudder end-points or reduce rudder rates, these don't affect actual end points of rudder edit-(beastx in transmitter mode-parameter B). I usually set at 70-80% to begin with. Make sure when you adjust gyro gain in tx that the beast x indicator lights increase A to N as you increase tx gain. Look to get F or G led region as a starting point, increase til wags then back off a bit.

Sorry can't help with tail shaft noise, never had a trex 600n.

[RCDanny]

Hi Ian here is a link to the manual for the beastx hope it helps you out http://www.beastx.com/manuals/MICROBEAST_3.0.3_ENG.pdf

[waveydavey]

You can check the beastX version by following the LED sequence at initialisation. You'll need to look at the manual for that and the only way to do the 2 In 1 is to move the switch to somewhere you can get to it, you can on the 600n

[trillian]

The metallic sound from the engine may mean it needs the rear bearings replaced. Obviously the description of sounds is subjective. When the bearings need changing it is sometimes described as the sound of rushing water but it's a bit metallic to me, like a dull grinding noise that you'll hear when the engine is idling.

[waveydavey]

Bearing noise is more of a rumble if we're into describing it If it's a 55 and you've got the OS pipe with it they have a real metallic ting to them and the 600n is a bit rattley anyway

[ianmat]

Thanks for all the great replies. I have listened to a few youtube videos of the Trex 600 and believe that mine sounds normal!! So that is a weight off my mind... The thing I'm struggling with is whether I can reduce rates in the TX now that the Minibeast is all set up, or if I need to do that through the minibeast? I'm looking to reduce the rates on everything and really tame the heli!!

[ianmat]

Minibeast!!! lol... I meant microbeast!

[waveydavey]

It's up to you, you can use the BeastX presets IE sport etc up to extreme but it'll fly like a bowl of banana custard. Disable the awful presets and use Tx settings then adjust your end points for roll, pitch and rudder (dual rates, whichever method you prefer) then add or not some expo to suit yourself. Don't use Beastx preset control behaviour with dual rates or expo, it's a no no

[Peteski]

The thing I'm struggling with is whether I can reduce rates in the TX now that the Minibeast is all set up, or if I need to do that through the minibeast? I'm looking to reduce the rates on everything and really tame the heli!!

It's easy enough to do but you really do need to read the BeastX manual first. Change Parameter Menu point B (Control Behaviour) to Blue (Transmitter) and then simply use Dual Rates and Expo on your Tx to suit. But I would go through the whole FBL setup process from scratch to make sure collective and rudder end points are set correctly, cyclic geometry is correctly calibrated and gyro is set up properly in heading lock mode - sounds like it's in rate mode now, which probably means the gain channel is not set up properly on your Tx.

[ianmat]

Thanks for all the excellent advice so far! Unfortunately I have a few more questions!
When I set the minibeast to transmitter settings (which I've worked out how to do now) I assume that leaving all the transmitter settings at 100% throw with no expo would be the equivalent of the most sporty settings?
What would you recommend for an intermediate pilot used to flying flybarred 450's and Hirobo shuttles?
Should I be worried about the Align 2 in 1 even though it's had the switch bypassed?

Thanks again for all your help, I'm too scared to attempt flying this beast again until I truely understand the settings!

[waveydavey]

Go for 80% cyclic and see how it feels and go from there, do the same with the tail and add 20% expo to all controls. Feel is subjective and the BeastX for instance feels good on full throws on the 600 for me, but might be very different for you.

[ianmat]

Hey guys, thanks for all the advice so far... I'm finally getting to grips with this monster heli! I've had to change a couple of bits so far, including the tail drive gears in the main body.
I've just replaced the clutch and bell housing, on account of a nasty rattling noise that occurs when the engine is idling. The other club members it was clutch related, because the noise goes away at higher revs. I obviously checked the engine (tons of compression and bearings fine) and the cooling ran is a metal one, all complete. I can't see anything else that could be causing this noise... Any ideas?