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  • servo mounting.

    How many of you use the rubber isolation and brass inserts when fitting the servo to an electric heli.
    Trex 550e dfc :-)
    Sab Goblin 500 Sport/dx8 and 9
    t-rex 450s x2 /Raptor 50
    blade 130x 3off/mcpx x2 180cfx times 2
    multiplex acromaster 3d (great fun) acrowot,sonic wing,Graupner junior 2mtr glider,beast biplane .
    kyosho spree small plank
    bogey combat plank x2 woop
    http://www.cuffleymfc.co.uk



    brian OB2 proud owner of 3X E.G.S+ 1boggy special star

  • #2
    It depends if the servo case is plastic or metal. With plastic servo cases I still use the rubber bits and brass inserts because the brass insert keeps the servo case from getting potentially cracked from the mounting bolts because it stops them from actually contacting the case. With more servos now having metal cases I think they're usually fine being bolted directly on (on an electric heli).
    Kasama, Minicopter, Henseleit, JR, Shape, Beam
    Robbe, RMJ Raptor gasser, powered by
    Spartan, Spirit, BeastX, Kontronik, CY Total-G, DX8

    member of Epsom Downs and Bloobird clubs
    Proud recipient of 7 EGS! and a platinum star

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    • #3
      I generally don't on electrics, unless it makes the geometry of the push rods better. I will test and see what's better.

      Some manuals (Compass 7HV, Chronos) say don't use them, others say they're optional (Synergy 766). I know from previous threads that many people ALWAYS use the grommets.
      Current fleet: Goblin Thunder Sport (700), Trex 700L, Logo 600, Specter 700, Henseleit TDR, V-Baaa control.
      Next heli: I have pretty much everything I want. Maybe I'll upgrade some electronics or something.

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      • #4
        On my warp 360 and goblin 570 I don't use them, but on my Logo 480 I do. Part of that was because of the servos I was using on the Logo, it was a better mounting with inserts - on the other two the servo mounting was good without. I haven't had any issues either way yet. I think either way is fine.

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        • #5
          thats the issue I have .On the servo push rods to the swash they are not strait down with the grommets in . on the goblin 500 sport.
          Originally posted by bigpops View Post
          I generally don't on electrics, unless it makes the geometry of the push rods better. I will test and see what's better.

          Some manuals (Compass 7HV, Chronos) say don't use them, others say they're optional (Synergy 766). I know from previous threads that many people ALWAYS use the grommets.
          Trex 550e dfc :-)
          Sab Goblin 500 Sport/dx8 and 9
          t-rex 450s x2 /Raptor 50
          blade 130x 3off/mcpx x2 180cfx times 2
          multiplex acromaster 3d (great fun) acrowot,sonic wing,Graupner junior 2mtr glider,beast biplane .
          kyosho spree small plank
          bogey combat plank x2 woop
          http://www.cuffleymfc.co.uk



          brian OB2 proud owner of 3X E.G.S+ 1boggy special star

          Comment


          • #6
            The various servos on my T-Rex 500s seemed to fit well with grommets & ferules; and probably wouldn't have otherwise.

            The BK servos on my Goblin 500s are fitted straight to the CF mounting plates. This is what the manual says, and works very well.

            I also have the link rods straight (like the manual says) - I'm really surprised the previous owner of yours didn't do that.

            I have the servos mounted so their cases rest against the servo support (the upper deck). If nothing else, to provide a common datum.
            Yes, it's th@ tw@ Scallyb@...

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            • #7
              Thats why I am questioning this.As you saw yesterday the link rods are not as they should be .As soon as I get the decorating done I will sort that out but do I use the grommets and ferules or not ?
              Originally posted by scallybert View Post
              The various servos on my T-Rex 500s seemed to fit well with grommets & ferules; and probably wouldn't have otherwise.

              The BK servos on my Goblin 500s are fitted straight to the CF mounting plates. This is what the manual says, and works very well.

              I also have the link rods straight (like the manual says) - I'm really surprised the previous owner of yours didn't do that.

              I have the servos mounted so their cases rest against the servo support (the upper deck). If nothing else, to provide a common datum.
              Trex 550e dfc :-)
              Sab Goblin 500 Sport/dx8 and 9
              t-rex 450s x2 /Raptor 50
              blade 130x 3off/mcpx x2 180cfx times 2
              multiplex acromaster 3d (great fun) acrowot,sonic wing,Graupner junior 2mtr glider,beast biplane .
              kyosho spree small plank
              bogey combat plank x2 woop
              http://www.cuffleymfc.co.uk



              brian OB2 proud owner of 3X E.G.S+ 1boggy special star

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by brin View Post
                Thats why I am questioning this.As you saw yesterday the link rods are not as they should be .As soon as I get the decorating done I will sort that out but do I use the grommets and ferules or not ?
                Mine are hard-mounted.

                Here's a link to a load of pictures I posted in the SAB Goblin FB group of the latest G500S I'm building. [It's actually a hybrid G500/G500S.]

                The BK servos are straight onto the carbon plates [no grommets, etc]; and the cases rest on the 'servo support' [upper mechanics deck.] The servo-swash links are vertical, as specified in the manual.

                https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater
                Yes, it's th@ tw@ Scallyb@...

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