Soldering

[scoobycolin]

Anyone near Basingstoke who can teach me to solder some connections and extension leads onto my Lipo. Ive done it but im not happy with the result? Pigs ear comes to mind!

Also, anyone out that know where I can get a lipo voltage alarm for 6s?

[trvo]

Which connectors are you using?

Trev

[fatmantom]

watch this........

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZU9rtACdZY[/ame]



i was shocking at it untill i watched that!

[trvo]

Few things I would add to that vid...

1. Do one wire at a time from start to finish, that way there's no risk of shorting them together.
2. Heatshrink the first wire before starting the second, to avoid shorting once again.
3. Always put the female connector on the lipo, again to avoid shorting in transit. If using bullets, make sure there's a male on the positive and female on the negative, that way you can't plug it in wrong. Put fuel tubing over the male bullet in transit.

Trev

[Sesame]

. The heavier the wire the more the heat is drawn away from the solder so for lipos with large guage wire you need a fairly hot soldering iron for it to work I use an adjustagle Iron which is up to 50W but the wick is turned back a fair bit.

I also put the opposite plug into the deans, This helps disperse the heat a little but it also stops any possible chance of the plug mishaping.

[marktigere1]

Also, if they are not going together easily, stop and allow the two parts to cool off.

Then, re tin each end and repeat.

This will prevent melting the plug.

Cheers

Mark

[Mikee]

I always scratch the deans connectors on the contact area to soldered on to.... and use a paste flux as well on the connector

And like Trev said finish one connector fully first... lipo are dangerous remember

[moyesboy]

As they said, fit one wire and its heat shrink before you fit the other if the lipo is on the other end!

You can stick wire and deans down to a surface with blu-tak while soldering.

Let the solder joint cool before sliding up the heatshrink or it might shrink prematurely.

[Jamez]

When soldering anything, cleanlyness of all parts is essential, use a good resin cored solder, and as Mikee said, use a paste flux as well, if theres any contamination on the plug / wire you will get a bad joint, and when your looking at 40 odd amps plus, a bad joint will heat quickly.

[quanter]

Re. the Li-Po voltage alarm, try this http://www.rcmodels.org/csm/LiPoVoltageGuard.htm

Brian

[Bikeracer]

If you use a copper bit and that lead free solder crap,you'll find your tip is cratering and soon needs dressing.I've gone back to normal lead/tin solder whilst there's still some tip left on my iron.

Allan

[David Drew]

Just soldered a Deans on for the first time. Must Practice!!!.

Not easy & melted the connector plastic enough to put the lugs out of alignment, but heated it again and re-aligned the lugs, popped it into a female to keep it aligned and re-soldered.

Not the prettiest job, but looks OK and the wires don't come of with some vigorous tugging so hopefully won't fail in flight.

Only had one connector so I may get some more & do the job again just for the experience.

Some good advice in posts above. Thanks

David

[svein]

Am I the only one using a gas needle-torch for this, since it allows me to flash-heat a small area much faster, and avoid the dissipation-issues? (but it does require a tad more expensive tin. Silver is good.)

//Svein

[163phil]

I use a Solderpro 70 - Great little tool and can be used anywhere. On special offer at Maplin at the moment