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  • Modification Queeries.

    Hello, I hope I am posting this in the correct place, my apologies If I am not.

    I am attempting to modify a simple RC Micro Helicopter. The type that has 2 rotors, one above the other.

    My questions is:

    Can the space between the upper and lower Rotors be decreased, as ideally they would be much closer than they are. If so what are the limits?

    Many thanks to anybody who can enlighten me.

  • #2
    You can't really move them closer, not by much anyway. You run the risk of the blades or the balance bar hitting each other in flight.

    Coaxial helis aren't really worth modifying anyway. If you want to fly a heli that doesn't have a tower of rotors on top of it, consider a beginner (single rotor) fixed pitch like a Blade 120SR or maybe a mini quad like a hubsan x4.

    Good site for info : http://www.rchelicopterfun.com



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
    Tom
    sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
    SAB Goblin 630 Competition
    - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
    Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
    Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
    .... and a Gaui X3
    Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
    ... and two EGS'



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    • #3
      The only mod I ever did to a co-ax was to the mcx I had....I did the flybar shortening mod to make it faster. It made it faster but at extreme stick waggling the blades hit eachother and it fell out of the air
      Neil

      1 x


      Raptor 30, OS32, on its way to being FBL (and leccy?)
      Trex 450 Pro, Beastx, Savox 0257, DS520
      Blade 180CFX

      DX9 & DX7
      Too many planks...

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      • #4
        Indeed. I laugh when I think back to the things that my brother in law and myself did to our coaxials to try to make them better! Weights in the nose to try to improve forward speed - moving the blades to try to reduce that "toy" look of the contra-rotating blades. All of which was just putting off the realisation that I needed to move to single-rotor.

        To the OP - look at single-rotor, you'll be amazed at the difference!
        Tom
        sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
        SAB Goblin 630 Competition
        - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
        Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
        Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
        .... and a Gaui X3
        Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
        ... and two EGS'



        Comment


        • #5
          Get an MSRx they're almost as stable as a co-ax but much faster and you can have fun with them. You'll get bored of the co-ax's soon and if they're cheap ones you'll get fed up with repairing them and waiting ages for the TX to charge the heli!
          Neil

          1 x


          Raptor 30, OS32, on its way to being FBL (and leccy?)
          Trex 450 Pro, Beastx, Savox 0257, DS520
          Blade 180CFX

          DX9 & DX7
          Too many planks...

          Comment


          • #6
            what you need is the hirobo lama sr
            fly it in a fast backwards circuit and keep going flat out
            you will end up with the upper and lower blades making contact and then it will free fall out of the air
            then you will see that it isn't the right move to lower the upper set of blades on a co-ax heli
            Hirobo Turbulence D3
            a bunch of bls servo's and a 701 gyro
            Powered by an OS91 hz and a MP2
            Winner of the LHC Scale Cup 2011

            1/4 scale Vario Bell 47 G3
            1/3 scale Vario R22
            2012 LHC Scale Cup Judge
            member of save the flybar foundation
            www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org
            sigpic

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            • #7
              Originally posted by nobbycopter View Post
              Get an MSRx they're almost as stable as a co-ax but much faster and you can have fun with them. You'll get bored of the co-ax's soon and if they're cheap ones you'll get fed up with repairing them and waiting ages for the TX to charge the heli!
              Plus 1. MSRx imo is the perfect way to test the water with this hobby once you are over the coax stage
              Stainburn Helicopter Club
              Sab Goblin 700 Competition Carbon
              Sab Goblin Black Nitro 650
              MSH Protos 380


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              • #8
                Originally posted by SaneAdam View Post
                Plus 1. MSRx imo is the perfect way to test the water with this hobby once you are over the coax stage
                No, a 600 Nitro with flappy paddles is the best beginner heli ... stable and easy to see!
                .
                .
                .
                .
                .... kidding!
                Tom
                sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
                SAB Goblin 630 Competition
                - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
                Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
                Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
                .... and a Gaui X3
                Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
                ... and two EGS'



                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by tomatwalden View Post
                  No, a 600 Nitro with flappy paddles is the best beginner heli ... stable and easy to see!
                  .
                  .
                  .
                  .
                  .... kidding!
                  Lol Love it........ You joke..... but someone would eventually have chimed in with some garbage like that lol
                  Stainburn Helicopter Club
                  Sab Goblin 700 Competition Carbon
                  Sab Goblin Black Nitro 650
                  MSH Protos 380


                  Vbar Control

                  Comment

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