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Blade CX2 - Adjustments?

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  • Blade CX2 - Adjustments?

    I have noticed that if I observe the movement of the blade action when moving the right-hand stick left and right, there doesn't appear to be an equal amount of movement in each direction. I haven't checked out whether this has a noticeable effect in operation (I am not quite that expert yet), but wonder if there is a need to alter the position of the link-rod in any of the other positions on the servo-arm. Am I simply getting too involved? Should I assume that its set up right and get on with flying it??!!

    I hope my non-jargonistic explanation makes some sense!!

  • #2
    if its flying right and moves right, leave well alone
    if it aint broke dont fix it!!
    Ron

    hobby-hangar.co.uk
    SWRCH-GO big or Go home!
    http://www.ultimatebuildandfly.co.uk/

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    • #3
      OK, fine. LOL.

      Comment


      • #4
        Wise words, thats experience for ya

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        • #5
          Indeed they were bud', the only time you need to play about with the linkage arms is when you upgrade the Swash Plate and Lower Rota Assembly to the CNC alloy upgrades as the metal SP sits a little higher then the plastic one.

          If you can take off and hover without to much trouble the SP is sitting 90 degrees flat, just as it should be, hence all is well.
          sigpicWayne AKA OB1

          Inherit the Wind - Wilton Felder 1980, Smooth Jazz-Funkin' & Flyin' in the Fens

          Blade CX2 / Trex 250SE / Trex 450 SE V1 / Trex 500esp / Trex 600 Nitro Pro / Raptor 30 V2 / DX6i / DX7 / Phoenix / Ripmax twin Dock PSU / Cellpro 10S & 4S / Imax B6 x2.
          Prankster Nitro / Delta Push Prop / Swift 2 Flying Wing x3 / Swift 2 (Night Flyer LED Lit) / Swift Maxi Wing / Squall 4S/ HZ Ember / Wot 4. (all 2.4ghz)
          Plus 3 Eddie Gold Stars, yay!
          Trex 450XL - Destroyed due to complete power failure at height.

          Joint second best sites on the Web:-
          http://www.vinylmorpher.co.uk/
          http://www.soulandfunkmusic.com/

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          • #6
            Originally posted by cambs flyer View Post
            [...] the only time you need to play about with the linkage arms is when you upgrade the Swash Plate and Lower Rota Assembly to the CNC alloy upgrades[...]
            There are other reasons you might want to.

            Moving the linkage further out along the servo crank arm makes the cyclic control more responsive, which some people might prefer.

            Not something I'd rush into, though.
            Yes, it's th@ tw@ Scallyb@...

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by scallybert View Post
              There are other reasons you might want to.

              Moving the linkage further out along the servo crank arm makes the cyclic control more responsive, which some people might prefer.

              Not something I'd rush into, though.
              That was exactly the reason I was asking. The Heli makes left and right turns quite nicely, but the movements on the right-hand stick are a little 'watered down'.

              I will leave alone for now, but may experiment with things later on.

              I'm off to fly outside today. Although I have made an error of judgement and left myself with no spare lower blades. Dammit.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by christianbeccy View Post
                That was exactly the reason I was asking. The Heli makes left and right turns quite nicely, but the movements on the right-hand stick are a little 'watered down'.
                I've just made this change myself.

                The stock BCX2 had a lovely stable feel, but in some rooms (esp close to the ground) it seemed that turbulance, etc had more effect than my cyclic stick input. I think I prefer it having made the change.

                [Being able to do this is one of the advantages of the BCX2 over a LamaV4, etc. The LV4 has trimmed down servo cranks due to space constraints.]

                I guess the BCX2 ships with a pretty conservative set-up to make it user-friendly out of the box.
                Yes, it's th@ tw@ Scallyb@...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by scallybert View Post
                  There are other reasons you might want to.

                  Moving the linkage further out along the servo crank arm makes the cyclic control more responsive, which some people might prefer.

                  Not something I'd rush into, though.
                  We were just trying to keep things simple at this stage, hence why this wasn't mentioned.
                  sigpicWayne AKA OB1

                  Inherit the Wind - Wilton Felder 1980, Smooth Jazz-Funkin' & Flyin' in the Fens

                  Blade CX2 / Trex 250SE / Trex 450 SE V1 / Trex 500esp / Trex 600 Nitro Pro / Raptor 30 V2 / DX6i / DX7 / Phoenix / Ripmax twin Dock PSU / Cellpro 10S & 4S / Imax B6 x2.
                  Prankster Nitro / Delta Push Prop / Swift 2 Flying Wing x3 / Swift 2 (Night Flyer LED Lit) / Swift Maxi Wing / Squall 4S/ HZ Ember / Wot 4. (all 2.4ghz)
                  Plus 3 Eddie Gold Stars, yay!
                  Trex 450XL - Destroyed due to complete power failure at height.

                  Joint second best sites on the Web:-
                  http://www.vinylmorpher.co.uk/
                  http://www.soulandfunkmusic.com/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for your help people. I am now out of blades, damn model shop not opening on a Sunday. Poo.

                    So, what is the advantage, if any, of changing over to the Alloy Swashplate?

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