If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Your local bike shop could supply you with a can of GT85 Teflon spray, it also removes dirt and sprayed in a cotton bud head, the lub' would be easily applied to the gears and bearings.
sigpicWayne AKA OB1
Inherit the Wind - Wilton Felder 1980, Smooth Jazz-Funkin' & Flyin' in the Fens
Blade CX2 / Trex 250SE / Trex 450 SE V1 / Trex 500esp / Trex 600 Nitro Pro / Raptor 30 V2 / DX6i / DX7 / Phoenix / Ripmax twin Dock PSU / Cellpro 10S & 4S / Imax B6 x2. Prankster Nitro / Delta Push Prop / Swift 2 Flying Wing x3 / Swift 2 (Night Flyer LED Lit) / Swift Maxi Wing / Squall 4S/ HZ Ember / Wot 4. (all 2.4ghz) Plus 3 Eddie Gold Stars, yay! Trex 450XL - Destroyed due to complete power failure at height.
For thrust bearings a use molybdenum grease. For rubber dampers I use tri-flow grease. For ball links use nothing. For the main shaft and tail shaft I use a machine oil at the start of a seesion. It is thin like water. Where the carbon tail push rod goes through the guides I use tri-flow oil at the start of a session.
I never use a spray. If the contents is flammable the propellant is non-flammable. If the contents is non-flammable the propellant is. Either way I have found through experience a spray can go any where and in my case was actually washing the grease out of the bearings used in the tail pitch lever causing them to seize up.
SAO THANKS FOR FAST RESPONCE when you say synthetic i do have some mobil 1 oil for car would that be ok ? because model shop to me is 70 mil trip .
I use something very similar to mobil 1. (Silkolene pro S (a PAO fully synthetic oil)), and it works a treat. PAO syntheic oils have an affinity for metal and stick to it really well. Viscosity seem fine to me, and it never drys out. If you ask me its ideal for model helis.
Comment