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  • Blade CX2 heat sink

    So I am off and running, well sort of. It was great until in the large garage I got too much height, lost co-ordination and, yes, the first crash. So am waiting for the replacement blades (and spare set now of course) and outer shaft main gear which has a few ripped teeth. In the meantime the Phoenix sim is doing sterling work.

    This gave my my first chance to get to grips with the mechanics of the thing and use it as a starter-for-ten on RCH mechanics. At the same time I had (somewhat naievely it now appears) followed the manufacturer's recommendation and bought a heat sink for the motors, so thought I might as well fit that.

    I took the guidelines for dismantling a CX2 from http://www.s5000.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17746, which, of course, are excellent.

    The CX2 instructions for fitting the heat sink simplistically say remove the right hand motor and then the heat sink will fit. Yes, but the gear wheels at the bottom obsure good access to one of the screw heads retaining the motor, so the gear wheels have to be removed!

    Just a couple of points I found for anyone who hasn't done this before.

    1) The inner shaft retaining collar has two retaining screws. These are very tight and I found that a jeweller's screwdriver does not give sufficient purchase; there is also the danger that it will slip out burring the cross head screw in the process, so I used a proper Phillips screwdriver which you can make sure is firmly seated and kept there whilst applying considerable turning pressure.


    2) After removing the lower rotor head there is the outer shaft retaining collar and a bearing to remove. As might be expected the latter is very tight fitting. So tight that where screw for the retaining collar goes against the shaft it has displaced some metal so that this is proud to the surface and this needs to be carefully removed before the bearing (not forced) will come off.


    Getting to fitting the heat sink it transpires that both motors need to be 'free' and some manipulation of wires is necessary and then, with care, it all goes together nicely. Use cotton buds to appy the heat sink paste and use meths on cotton buds to remove any excess paste.

    Refixing the left motor (with heat-sink attached) is no problem. The r/h motor is then fitted to the heat-sink but check on re-screwing it that it is fully seated against the base-plate (main-frame) or else the cogs for the grears will not be in their correct positions. Again for anyone new to this make quite sure the motor screw holes are accurately aligned with those in the main frame and that the motor mounting screws are turned the reverse way first until they 'click' so avoiding stripped threads on the soft metal casing of the motors.

    Finally, I am tempted when putting things together to add some lubricant to the area between the inner and outer shafts, for example. Does anyone have any comments on this please?

  • #2
    Originally posted by RotaryOne View Post
    I took the guidelines for dismantling a CX2 from http://www.s5000.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17746,
    useful link nice one

    Comment


    • #3
      I thought about adding a heat sink but decided against it, as you said the lower and inner shaft gear wheels really need to be out the way for easy access to the motor screws.

      I think I'll add a sink when I replace the motors eventually after there past there best.

      I did purchase a good set of flat and philips screwdrivers as the S/driver supplied with the heli is only good for blade screws at best.

      Excellent thread mate with good advice, did you use the heat compound to attach the sink to the motors.

      As for the gears and a little lube' I thought a little GT85 Teflon spray might be a good idea as it repeals dirt and sprayed on a cotton bud could be easily added to the plastic and metal gearing and lightly added to the inner shaft.
      sigpicWayne AKA OB1

      Inherit the Wind - Wilton Felder 1980, Smooth Jazz-Funkin' & Flyin' in the Fens

      Blade CX2 / Trex 250SE / Trex 450 SE V1 / Trex 500esp / Trex 600 Nitro Pro / Raptor 30 V2 / DX6i / DX7 / Phoenix / Ripmax twin Dock PSU / Cellpro 10S & 4S / Imax B6 x2.
      Prankster Nitro / Delta Push Prop / Swift 2 Flying Wing x3 / Swift 2 (Night Flyer LED Lit) / Swift Maxi Wing / Squall 4S/ HZ Ember / Wot 4. (all 2.4ghz)
      Plus 3 Eddie Gold Stars, yay!
      Trex 450XL - Destroyed due to complete power failure at height.

      Joint second best sites on the Web:-
      http://www.vinylmorpher.co.uk/
      http://www.soulandfunkmusic.com/

      Comment


      • #4
        I have found the oil/grease for sewing machines works very well.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks to pompeyjohn, cambs flyer and rab for their responses.

          Yes, cambs flyer, I did use the paste. The instructions for this make it very clear that any labels have to be removed so that it is metal/paste/metal conact only. The simplest solution is to turn the r/h motor 180 degress and carefully re-arrange the cables.

          Thanks to pompeyjohn for suggesting the sowing machine oil and to cambs flyer for suggesting GT85

          Comment


          • #6
            good morning Nigel are you back up and flying now?

            nice post a couple of good tips there. as the blade is such a good beginers heli its good to post every thing you do no matter how big or small. you never know you may have just saved sombody a christmas in the casualty dept with a screw driver through their hand!!!!
            Ron

            hobby-hangar.co.uk
            SWRCH-GO big or Go home!
            http://www.ultimatebuildandfly.co.uk/

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Ron. Thanks for the message.
              No. Still waiting for the parts. Obviously somewhat delayed by Christmas rush. However, plenty of practice with Phoenix and, without getting too cocky, seem to be getting the handle on reverse thinking for the cyclic. So that is quite satisfying. Apart from the obvious lot of hovering practise, now nose towards and nose away, am doing some out-and-backs, a bit like touch-and-gos on fixed wing, and that is quite satisfying. Indeed, I actually got it straight in to a nose-on hover over the landing point and then put it down nicely. To my suprise I elicited and little whoop of glee and then recovered my self and had a coffee to calm down! Getting hooked might not be a problem

              Have a good Christmas, Ron

              Comment


              • #8
                a quick tip nigel don't think of it as reverse! waaaaay to much brain power needed!!
                when your "nose in" look at the rotor disc as a spinning plate, when it slides sideways, forwards etc, "prop" it up with the cyclic stick. pretty soon it will become instinctive will no brain strain

                merry christmas to you and yours too
                Ron

                hobby-hangar.co.uk
                SWRCH-GO big or Go home!
                http://www.ultimatebuildandfly.co.uk/

                Comment


                • #9
                  Blade CX2 heat sink

                  Thanks, Ron. Will use that one.

                  One thing about the contra rotor system is that is seems to fly very flat, which is obviously a safety feature when learning.

                  Best Regards

                  Nigel

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    yes nigel you will find that no stall turns or banked turns im afraid.
                    but if you want to progress try backwards then apply a small amount of rudder and get a circle going. once its going give it lots of rudder and use cyclic to keep the circle whilst piroing!!!..stock up on blades first!!!
                    Ron

                    hobby-hangar.co.uk
                    SWRCH-GO big or Go home!
                    http://www.ultimatebuildandfly.co.uk/

                    Comment

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