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  • #16
    Originally posted by sargan View Post
    can you give a link to the starter shaft you use ?

    The Sullivan one seems so expensive.


    Do you have a special bracket for the 4S pack ?
    Here is the K&S shaft:

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    • #17
      if you can get the sullivan it will out last the k&s i have replaced mine once they are ok but i think the sullivan will last longer.
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      https://www.flickr.com/photos/133062485@N05/

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      • #18
        Originally posted by sargan View Post
        Thx in advance for pics

        I built this a couple of weeks ago out of some bits and bobs in the garage.

        Be aware that the starter shaft can be very difficult to fit, as said earlier in the thread the supplied plank cup is threaded on but what has'nt been mentioned is that the thread is not a regular metric thread so a little fidling is required if you use anything other than a specific designed shaft.
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        • #19
          on mine, i have the red sulli shaft with the miniature aircraft stand to hold batteries, heavy as... but it ****es over anything else
          Chris 'CHUNK' Newby
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          • #20
            4s 14.8 wand fits with rubber cup removerble wand on one
            way bearing got my one from pegasus models, midland heli and FL
            proberbly have similler i also think the rubber cup is kinder to
            your clutch stack being able to remove the wand to put in the
            flight bags a bonous
            (now runing x2 14.8v2500mah)
            Attached Files
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            • #21
              Originally posted by Downdraft View Post
              I built this a couple of weeks ago out of some bits and bobs in the garage.

              Be aware that the starter shaft can be very difficult to fit, as said earlier in the thread the supplied plank cup is threaded on but what has'nt been mentioned is that the thread is not a regular metric thread so a little fidling is required if you use anything other than a specific designed shaft.

              What shaft have you used ... it looks different form the only one I have seen for the starter ?
              Some people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Downdraft View Post
                I built this a couple of weeks ago out of some bits and bobs in the garage.

                Be aware that the starter shaft can be very difficult to fit, as said earlier in the thread the supplied plank cup is threaded on but what has'nt been mentioned is that the thread is not a regular metric thread so a little fidling is required if you use anything other than a specific designed shaft.

                What shaft did you use ... looks different form the one I have seen advertised:
                Starter Accessories
                Some people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Cuppa View Post
                  4s 14.8 wand fits with rubber cup removerble wand on one
                  way bearing got my one from pegasus models, midland heli and FL
                  proberbly have similler i also think the rubber cup is kinder to
                  your clutch stack being able to remove the wand to put in the
                  flight bags a bonous
                  (now runing x2 14.8v2500mah)
                  So instead of removing the Sullivan aluminium pulley & rubber cup ... your wand plugs into the rubber cup, is that right ?

                  Any chance of a link to where you got it from ? so I can make sure I am looking at right thing.
                  Some people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Pitman View Post
                    Shaun uses an outrage 5S 3300mAh battery. No bracket required, just some velcro to hold the battery to the starter, and a velcro strap for security:

                    Used shauns twice the other week to start my 700 at andys handover and after priming it went first go

                    Dads given me his old sully so i may save for the wand,i do like the way they are built with one big solid BB
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                    • #25
                      back to square 1 on the question .... I have Hi-Tork .... (not Dynatron) so is it safe to use 4S packs (16.9 V) or should I use 3S.
                      Some people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by sargan View Post
                        back to square 1 on the question .... I have Hi-Tork .... (not Dynatron) so is it safe to use 4S packs (16.9 V) or should I use 3S.
                        4 cell is 14.8v. It will be fine!
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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Pitman View Post
                          4 cell is 14.8v. It will be fine!

                          On an education point (you educating me that is) .... I have read that fully charged a LiPo is 4.23V .... that is why I though that 4S would give 16.92V
                          I used this:
                          Lithium-ion polymer battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
                          Some people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.

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                          • #28
                            Remember that voltage is fully charged, under no load. When used on a starter, it is going to be underload, hence the lower practical voltage I quoted.

                            Edit - see spec here:

                            http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/outr...4-p-11767.html
                            Last edited by Pitman; 01-02-2011, 07:46 PM.
                            Proud Sponsor/Pitman/Servant/Slave to Bart101s fleet of Outrage and Avant helicopters
                            Bart101 suffers from a medical condition called "Compulsive Inpulsive HeliAddict"



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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by sargan View Post
                              What shaft have you used ... it looks different form the only one I have seen for the starter ?

                              Mine is a modified JP one, but as said a little fidlling with a drill is required and ideally the correct imperial tap.
                              The rubber cup idea is a good one but my N9 has a live starter shaft with no onboard one way bearing so after the engine has started it spins the starter shaft like billieo and with the cup idea it could easilly fling out and do some serious damage to the heli or perhaps even me

                              Here's a link to a suitable shaft with on way bearing that can be used in the rubber cup or modified to screw on to the shaft of the sulli http://www.galaxymodels.co.uk/detail...2&rootid=#lift

                              P.S The JP shaft will also fit into the rubber cup if you dont fancy drilling it
                              Last edited by Downdraft; 01-02-2011, 11:42 PM.
                              Sean,

                              Logo 700 Xxtreme
                              SAB Gobbler 700
                              SAB Gobby 500
                              T-Rex 700, Now FuBarred (Lol)
                              T-Rex 700E, 12s Fun
                              T-Rex 250 FBL, Less parts to break,
                              DJi 450 FPV Flamewheel

                              1 Very understanding Wife

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by sargan View Post
                                So instead of removing the Sullivan aluminium pulley & rubber cup ... your wand plugs into the rubber cup, is that right ?

                                Any chance of a link to where you got it from ? so I can make sure I am looking at right thing.
                                Warning! the ali cup is torque fitted in the factory if you undo the center nut you'l have a job doing it back up as not to slip on the shaft it definately works best with the 'rubber cup' grey not the nylon type
                                can't give you a link i'm afraid soz, you'l have to look.
                                As i said be kined to your shaft and clutch stack 'use rubber!'
                                the wand end pushes into the cup so if you get a lock it won't
                                twist your arm off or anything else
                                Attached Files
                                GAUI X7 Beast X V3 (a nice bit of fish!)
                                Trex600n Fbl ys56sr BeastX V3
                                Trex500Fbl AR7200BX
                                Trex500 Apache x4bld BeastX. Trex 600E HIND mil x5bld BeastX
                                DX7se

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