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Sullivan Starter Q
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if you can get the sullivan it will out last the k&s i have replaced mine once they are ok but i think the sullivan will last longer.Trex700E
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Originally posted by sargan View PostThx in advance for pics
I built this a couple of weeks ago out of some bits and bobs in the garage.
Be aware that the starter shaft can be very difficult to fit, as said earlier in the thread the supplied plank cup is threaded on but what has'nt been mentioned is that the thread is not a regular metric thread so a little fidling is required if you use anything other than a specific designed shaft.Sean,
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on mine, i have the red sulli shaft with the miniature aircraft stand to hold batteries, heavy as... but it ****es over anything elseChris 'CHUNK' Newby
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4s 14.8 wand fits with rubber cup removerble wand on one
way bearing got my one from pegasus models, midland heli and FL
proberbly have similler i also think the rubber cup is kinder to
your clutch stack
being able to remove the wand to put in the
flight bags a bonous
(now runing x2 14.8v2500mah)
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Originally posted by Downdraft View PostI built this a couple of weeks ago out of some bits and bobs in the garage.
Be aware that the starter shaft can be very difficult to fit, as said earlier in the thread the supplied plank cup is threaded on but what has'nt been mentioned is that the thread is not a regular metric thread so a little fidling is required if you use anything other than a specific designed shaft.
What shaft have you used ... it looks different form the only one I have seen for the starter ?Some people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.
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Originally posted by Downdraft View PostI built this a couple of weeks ago out of some bits and bobs in the garage.
Be aware that the starter shaft can be very difficult to fit, as said earlier in the thread the supplied plank cup is threaded on but what has'nt been mentioned is that the thread is not a regular metric thread so a little fidling is required if you use anything other than a specific designed shaft.
What shaft did you use ... looks different form the one I have seen advertised:
Starter AccessoriesSome people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.
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So instead of removing the Sullivan aluminium pulley & rubber cup ... your wand plugs into the rubber cup, is that right ?Originally posted by Cuppa View Post4s 14.8 wand fits with rubber cup removerble wand on one
way bearing got my one from pegasus models, midland heli and FL
proberbly have similler i also think the rubber cup is kinder to
your clutch stack
being able to remove the wand to put in the
flight bags a bonous
(now runing x2 14.8v2500mah)
Any chance of a link to where you got it from ? so I can make sure I am looking at right thing.Some people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.
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Used shauns twice the other week to start my 700 at andys handover and after priming it went first goOriginally posted by Pitman View PostShaun uses an outrage 5S 3300mAh battery. No bracket required, just some velcro to hold the battery to the starter, and a velcro strap for security:



Dads given me his old sully so i may save for the wand,i do like the way they are built with one big solid BB
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4 cell is 14.8v. It will be fine!Originally posted by sargan View Postback to square 1 on the question .... I have Hi-Tork .... (not Dynatron) so is it safe to use 4S packs (16.9 V) or should I use 3S.Proud Sponsor/Pitman/Servant/Slave to Bart101s fleet of Outrage and Avant helicopters
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Originally posted by Pitman View Post4 cell is 14.8v. It will be fine!
On an education point (you educating me that is) .... I have read that fully charged a LiPo is 4.23V .... that is why I though that 4S would give 16.92V
I used this:
Lithium-ion polymer battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaSome people will always find fault - if you find a typo, consider it put there for you.
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Remember that voltage is fully charged, under no load. When used on a starter, it is going to be underload, hence the lower practical voltage I quoted.
Edit - see spec here:
http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/outr...4-p-11767.htmlLast edited by Pitman; 01-02-2011, 07:46 PM.Proud Sponsor/Pitman/Servant/Slave to Bart101s fleet of Outrage and Avant helicopters
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Originally posted by sargan View PostWhat shaft have you used ... it looks different form the only one I have seen for the starter ?
Mine is a modified JP one, but as said a little fidlling with a drill is required and ideally the correct imperial tap.
The rubber cup idea is a good one but my N9 has a live starter shaft with no onboard one way bearing so after the engine has started it spins the starter shaft like billieo and with the cup idea it could easilly fling out and do some serious damage to the heli or perhaps even me
Here's a link to a suitable shaft with on way bearing that can be used in the rubber cup or modified to screw on to the shaft of the sulli http://www.galaxymodels.co.uk/detail...2&rootid=#lift
P.S The JP shaft will also fit into the rubber cup if you dont fancy drilling it
Last edited by Downdraft; 01-02-2011, 11:42 PM.Sean,
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Warning! the ali cup is torque fitted in the factory if you undo the center nut you'l have a job doing it back up as not to slip on the shaft it definately works best with the 'rubber cup' grey not the nylon typeOriginally posted by sargan View PostSo instead of removing the Sullivan aluminium pulley & rubber cup ... your wand plugs into the rubber cup, is that right ?
Any chance of a link to where you got it from ? so I can make sure I am looking at right thing.
can't give you a link i'm afraid soz, you'l have to look.
As i said be kined to your shaft and clutch stack 'use rubber!'
the wand end pushes into the cup so if you get a lock it won't
twist your arm off or anything else
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